schaf
Member
How offen should a fountain pen be used.If not used on a daily basis will the nib dry out.Can you ink a pen and then use it say once a month or would this be asking for trouble.
Regards Terry
Regards Terry
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wdcav1952
Activities Manager Emeritus
Terry,
I would say once a month would present a problem. I leave my work pen over the weekend and longer without problems. I have another pen loaded wih Private Reserve Sherwood green. If I don't use it for a couple of weeks, the flow takes some coaxing to start, and then the ink is much darker until the partially dried ink in the nib is used up.
FWIW,
I would say once a month would present a problem. I leave my work pen over the weekend and longer without problems. I have another pen loaded wih Private Reserve Sherwood green. If I don't use it for a couple of weeks, the flow takes some coaxing to start, and then the ink is much darker until the partially dried ink in the nib is used up.
FWIW,
Texatdurango
Member
Speaking of "takes some coaxing to start", I have been using my new F/P all day today, left it uncapped on the desk when I went down for dinner, came back and it needed some coaxing to get it going, and that was only an hour or so.
I guess I'm just used to leaving a rollerball lying around uncapped. What is the best way to coax a F/P? Shaking it sounds like asking for trouble with ink going all over, tapping the nib on the paper also sounds like damaging the nib so what say the daily users out there?
I guess I'm just used to leaving a rollerball lying around uncapped. What is the best way to coax a F/P? Shaking it sounds like asking for trouble with ink going all over, tapping the nib on the paper also sounds like damaging the nib so what say the daily users out there?
bjackman
Member
A dampened klenex or non abrasive tissue rubbed gently down the top of the nib from the breather hole area down towards the point will usually get most pens flowing.
gerryr
Member
My experience has been that steel nibs are more tempermental about usage. I can leave one of mine with a gold nib for several days and it will start writing just fine, but the steel nibs seem to require being used on a daily basis.
jtate
Member
Gerry,
I don't think it's the steel nib that's causing the issue - it's the feed under the steel nib. Steel nibs generally go into less expensive fountain pens which have lower quality feeds. These are more prone to drying out a bit when not in use as often. (unless it's gone so far as to have a reaction between the ink and the steel - Gold being fairly non-reactive, you won't have this problem as often.)
Frankly though, unless you're using a vintage pen or a really high end pen, it's probably not gold on the business side of the nib, the underside where the nib comes into contact with the ink. Not many nibs are actually gold now.
I don't think it's the steel nib that's causing the issue - it's the feed under the steel nib. Steel nibs generally go into less expensive fountain pens which have lower quality feeds. These are more prone to drying out a bit when not in use as often. (unless it's gone so far as to have a reaction between the ink and the steel - Gold being fairly non-reactive, you won't have this problem as often.)
Frankly though, unless you're using a vintage pen or a really high end pen, it's probably not gold on the business side of the nib, the underside where the nib comes into contact with the ink. Not many nibs are actually gold now.
jtate
Member
FROM: http://richardspens.com/
Care and Feeding: How to Pamper Your Pens
As a new (or not so new) fountain pen user, you’re bound to have questions about the best way to take care of your pens. If you think of your pens as if they were children or pets, you’ll realize that there are as many “health†regimes for pens as there are authorities on pen care. Now, I don’t claim to be an authority, but everything suggested in this article is something I do (or avoid doing) for my pens, and I have what I consider sound reasons for my choices. Obviously, you should choose a regime that seems reasonable to you. (Revised May 6, 2007)
Diet
Fountain pen ink is a solution. To the chemist, a solution consists of a fluid in which other substances are dissolved (the solvent), and the dissolved substances (the solutes). The solutes are actually reduced to the molecular level, the same as the solvent, and all the different molecules are mixed up evenly to create a uniform fluid. The solvent in fountain pen ink is distilled water, and the solutes are dyes, wetting agents, and mold inhibitors. Because it’s a solution, fountain pen ink contains no solid matter at all. This is an important point to remember.
Any ink designed for fountain pens is safe for use in your pens, but some inks contain more dye than others do. Some inks, especially the very highly saturated “boutique†brands, may contain so much dye that the water cannot hold all of the dye in solution; in these inks, dye can actually come out of solution and fall to the bottom of the bottle as solid material. Inks that do this in the bottle can also do it in your pen, and the result will be a clog. You will learn to recognize these inks by experience; if you ever have to shake or stir a bottle of ink because there’s a little sludge at the bottom, you’ve found an ink with too much dye. I recommend avoiding such inks, but some of them are so attractive in appearance that avoiding them just may not be in the cards for you. I also recommend against evaporating less-saturated inks to achieve denser color; this practice produces the same result as introducing too much dye in the first place. When you have a clog of this type, soaking the clogged part (usually the section assembly) in water or a 1:10 solution of clear household ammonia in water (1 tablespoon of ammonia in 2/3 cup of water) should remove the clog, but it’s possible for enough dye to build up that the pen will need to be cleaned mechanically. If you are using a clog-prone ink, you should avoid storing pens that are filled with ink for more than a week or so.
Another concern is staining. Some inks stain more than others. There are two reasons for differences in staining: highly saturated inks stain more than less-saturated ones, and certain colors â€" notably violets â€" stain more than others. The least staining ink in use today is vintage Skrip Washable Blue; but the supply of this ink is obviously very limited. In general, blue and black inks stain less than other colors, while violets and reds stain the most. If your pens have transparent sections or barrels to allow viewing the ink supply, you might want to avoid inks that stain severely. I use a violet ink, but I restrict it to one pen, a Parker “51â€, which does not have a visible ink supply.
Because fountain-pen inks in bottles can fade or change color over time if they’re exposed to light, you should store your inks in a covered box or a drawer or cabinet. And this might surprise you because manufacturers include mold inhibitors in their product, but some brands of ink are also susceptible to growths of mold. Mold growing in an ink bottle will very quickly start growths of mold in your pens, as shown to the left. Keep your bottles tightly sealed except when you’re actually filling your pens. If you discover a scum or sludge of mold in one of your ink bottles, discard the ink. Before reusing the bottle, sterilize both the bottle and the cap by boiling them in tap water for five minutes. Pens that have mold in them must be disassembled so that all parts exposed to ink can be disinfected with a fungicide. (This is usually a job for a professional.)
Other inks and ink-like fluids (India ink, acrylic artists’ inks, watercolor paints, correction fluid, etc.) are suspensions, not solutions. These fluids contain finely ground pigments that are still in the solid state, floating (suspended) in a liquid vehicle, and you should not put them in your fountain pens.
The solids in these fluids cannot flow smoothly through the tiny capillary ink fissures in a fountain pen, and they will inevitably clog the pen. Sometimes you can soak a clog out using an ammonia solution or a solvent designed for this purpose, such as Koh-I-Noor pen cleaner for India-ink clogs, but it’s also possible to find a clog that cannot be soaked out. In this case, it’s necessary to disassemble the pen, soak the interior parts to loosen the clog, and then remove the clog mechanically by “flossing†the ink fissures with a thin sheet of brass or other tool. Some of these fluids, such as correction fluid (“white-outâ€), contain solvents that will actually damage your pens. (I mention correction fluid specifically because a client once sent me a pen that had been filled with it. Correction fluid is not white ink!)
Health and Hygiene
Although they require very little routine care, fountain pens are not entirely maintenance free. Like any mechanical device, your pens will perform better if they are clean. And because their working parts are mostly on the inside, that’s where they need to be kept clean. As I said earlier, ink is a solution, with no solids in it. But the dyes and other solutes are solids if they’re not dissolved in water. And because there is always some evaporation in a filled pen, even if it’s capped, the ink inside gradually becomes more concentrated, and the dyes can come out of solution to clog the ink fissures. Or the ink can even dry out completely, leaving serious clogs behind. This means that it’s a good practice to flush and refill your pens once a month or so. The Parker 61, which relies on a good capillary flow for its filling, is especially sensitive to excessive solids in its interior. As with staining, some inks are worse about depositing solid matter on your pens; reds are notorious in this regard, and a pen that is used with red ink will frequently show a build-up of red matter around the nib and feed.
You should also flush a pen thoroughly when changing inks, even between colors of the same brand. Although most inks are chemically compatible and will not clog or damage your pen when mixed,[1] you will find that changing inks without flushing can result in some strange and wonderful colors. (By “wonderful,†I mean you’ll wonder where that color ever came from!)
In general, you flush a pen by emptying it and then repeatedly filling and emptying it using water. In actual practice, the task is usually a little more complicated, especially with pens that have a secondary ink reservoir. The Parker “51â€, with its patented collector, was the first pen with this feature, but it is not alone; most pens made today have a large number of fine comb cuts on the part of the feed that is concealed within the section, and this area, whether it is actually called a collector or not, functions as one by holding a significant amount of ink.
One of the most effective ways to clear a pen of ink or water after you have expelled as much as the filling system can push out, is to wrap the nib end in several thicknesses of tissue or paper towel and shake the pen down vigorously with strong “flips†of the wrist, as you would shake down an old-fashioned mercury medical thermometer. Shaking in this way acts like a centrifuge, forcing the ink out through the nib and feed, and into the paper. To clean a pen, therefore, empty it and shake it down; then fill and repeat, using water, until all you get out is clear water.
A question that comes up frequently enough to be in a FAQ is “How do I empty my pen?†For most pens, you simply cycle the filling mechanism. The key to emptying a Parker Vacumatic is patience. Press the plunger very slowly, slowly enough to take several seconds for a full stroke, until a drop of ink â€" not bubbles â€" appears. You can now finish the stroke a little less slowly but still not quickly. Release the plunger, wait a couple of seconds for the ink to settle, and repeat the process until you cannot get a real drop to appear. The Vacumatic-filling “51†is particularly reluctant to yield up its ink, and it will usually disgorge only a few drops per plunger cycle. Most “51â€s require a significant number of plunger cycles. When you cannot extract a drop regardless of how slowly you press the plunger, shake the pen down as described earlier.
Cartridge/converter pens are convenient to fill, and they are also really easy to flush. If you don’t already have an ear syringe, visit your local drug store and buy one. This is a rubber bulb, sized to fit comfortably in the hand, with a “snout†that fits reasonably well into the cartridge receptacle on most pens. (It will actually fit onto the nipple in many pens.) Fill the syringe with water, remove the pen’s cartridge or converter, and force water through the pen with the syringe. (If you’re removing a cartridge that isn’t yet empty, it’s perfectly all right to reuse the cartridge; just be sure to keep its open end upward and to cover the opening in some way to keep dust and other foreign materials out while you flush the pen.) If the syringe isn’t a good enough fit, clamp your fingers around the joint between syringe and pen in order to prevent as much spray as possible. Do this over a sink or in the bathtub, and rinse away any mess afterward.
You can also use an ear syringe to flush a capillary-filling Parker 61, but you will need to modify the syringe by cutting off part of its nozzle. Cut off enough that the remaining opening fits snugly over the pen’s capillary cell case (the Teflon-coated metal cylinder inside the barrel). See the illustration to the left. Fill the syringe with water, insert the cell case into the opening, and immerse the nib end of the pen into a sink partially filled with water. Squeeze. To refill the syringe, release while the nib remains immersed; this draws water backward through the pen. Then remove the syringe, empty it of its inky water contents, and refill with clear water. Repeat the squeeze/release cycle until the water you drive through the pen is essentially clear. Then remove the syringe and blow through the pen into a wad of paper towel to eject the last remaining water. (If the pen has been allowed to dry out completely, it’s a good idea to leave it soaking in cool water, filler end downward, overnight, and then repeat the flushing procedure.)
To keep the outside of your pens clean, you can use any good non-abrasive cleaner and polish, such as Flitz Metal Polish, which works quite well on nonmetallic surfaces, too. Apply the polish and buff it off using a clean dry rag made of 100% cotton flannel. Synthetic fabrics, such as acrylics or polyester, are harder than the pens themselves, and these fabrics can scratch. Simichrome, although it is well known and widely available at antique shops, motorcycle shops, and many other locations, is not recommended for ordinary maintenance because it is abrasive. Brasso, a widely used household polishing product, is more abrasive and chemically harsher; never use it on your pens.
Rest and Relaxation
When you take a pen out of your rotation, what do you do with it? 50 years ago, you’d have pitched it into the desk drawer with your letter openers, paper clips, and other assorted hostile objects. But not today.
The best place to store pens is a pen cabinet lined with suede or felt or cotton flannel â€" or, at a minimum, a sturdy pen case designed to protect them from being jostled and banged around. Some velvet is made of nylon, which can actually scratch some pens, so unless you’re certain that the velvet in a case you’re considering is natural, don’t use it. Inexpensive pasteboard boxes with dividers, while attractive because they allow you to store a large number of pens cheaply, are not really such a good idea, especially if they are made of recycled materials. The pasteboard of which they are made can contain tiny bits of abrasive materials, which will of course damage your pens.
Do not store your pens in sealed plastic bags. (In fact, I recommend you avoid plastic bags altogether except for very short-term use.) Most bags are made of plastics that exhale chemicals (called “outgassingâ€), and they can damage the surface finish of your pens. Flush most pens before storing them, and store them dry. Pens with cork pistons, such as early Pelikans, should be kept filled to keep the corks from drying out.
You can store pens horizontally or vertically. If you store them vertically, I recommend placing them nib upward. If your pen cabinet has a glass window in its top or front, do not locate it where direct sunlight or light from any other strong ultraviolet source (an arc welder, for example) can fall on it. Light strong in ultraviolet, called actinic light, can damage pens. Hard rubber pens, especially, do not respond well, as you know if you’ve ever seen a once-black hard rubber pen that is now more or less brown or olive green.
Travel
When you take your pens on vacation, you really don’t want them spitting all over you or the interior of your luggage. For this reason, it’s best to ink only the one or two pens that you will actually carry while you’re on the train or airplane. Fill your “carry†pens completely, and carry them nib upward when they’re not in use. And don’t try to use them during the period when your plane is climbing to altitude. The cabin pressure is being adjusted at that time, and your pens will be much more likely to spit, blob, or flood then.
Pens that are going along for the ride, to be used while you’re writing the Great American Novel in your Adirondack mountain retreat, will travel more happily if they’re empty. In a strong pen case is the best place for them to be; but you can also wrap them in tissue and pack them in hard plastic tubes of the kind sold for toothbrushes. You can also use the two-part tubes that some pen dealers ship their pens in, or you can even cut several lengths of PVC plumbing pipe. (Schedule 20, the lightest PVC pipe, is plenty sturdy for this use.) Wrap the pens in tissue or paper towel to keep them from rattling around in the tubes.
If you need to carry extra ink, the best way is to seal it in a zip-lock plastic bag and pack it in the bottom of your carry-on luggage. Entrusting bottles of ink to the tender mercies of airport baggage handlers can be a recipe for disaster. Given the exigencies of today’s security-conscious airport environment, however, you might prefer to put your ink in your checked baggage. To do this with a very high degree of safety, ball the zip-lock bag up in two pairs of athletic socks (or three or four pairs of dress socks) before packing it toward the center of your suitcase.
Care and Feeding: How to Pamper Your Pens
As a new (or not so new) fountain pen user, you’re bound to have questions about the best way to take care of your pens. If you think of your pens as if they were children or pets, you’ll realize that there are as many “health†regimes for pens as there are authorities on pen care. Now, I don’t claim to be an authority, but everything suggested in this article is something I do (or avoid doing) for my pens, and I have what I consider sound reasons for my choices. Obviously, you should choose a regime that seems reasonable to you. (Revised May 6, 2007)
Diet
Fountain pen ink is a solution. To the chemist, a solution consists of a fluid in which other substances are dissolved (the solvent), and the dissolved substances (the solutes). The solutes are actually reduced to the molecular level, the same as the solvent, and all the different molecules are mixed up evenly to create a uniform fluid. The solvent in fountain pen ink is distilled water, and the solutes are dyes, wetting agents, and mold inhibitors. Because it’s a solution, fountain pen ink contains no solid matter at all. This is an important point to remember.
Any ink designed for fountain pens is safe for use in your pens, but some inks contain more dye than others do. Some inks, especially the very highly saturated “boutique†brands, may contain so much dye that the water cannot hold all of the dye in solution; in these inks, dye can actually come out of solution and fall to the bottom of the bottle as solid material. Inks that do this in the bottle can also do it in your pen, and the result will be a clog. You will learn to recognize these inks by experience; if you ever have to shake or stir a bottle of ink because there’s a little sludge at the bottom, you’ve found an ink with too much dye. I recommend avoiding such inks, but some of them are so attractive in appearance that avoiding them just may not be in the cards for you. I also recommend against evaporating less-saturated inks to achieve denser color; this practice produces the same result as introducing too much dye in the first place. When you have a clog of this type, soaking the clogged part (usually the section assembly) in water or a 1:10 solution of clear household ammonia in water (1 tablespoon of ammonia in 2/3 cup of water) should remove the clog, but it’s possible for enough dye to build up that the pen will need to be cleaned mechanically. If you are using a clog-prone ink, you should avoid storing pens that are filled with ink for more than a week or so.
Another concern is staining. Some inks stain more than others. There are two reasons for differences in staining: highly saturated inks stain more than less-saturated ones, and certain colors â€" notably violets â€" stain more than others. The least staining ink in use today is vintage Skrip Washable Blue; but the supply of this ink is obviously very limited. In general, blue and black inks stain less than other colors, while violets and reds stain the most. If your pens have transparent sections or barrels to allow viewing the ink supply, you might want to avoid inks that stain severely. I use a violet ink, but I restrict it to one pen, a Parker “51â€, which does not have a visible ink supply.
Because fountain-pen inks in bottles can fade or change color over time if they’re exposed to light, you should store your inks in a covered box or a drawer or cabinet. And this might surprise you because manufacturers include mold inhibitors in their product, but some brands of ink are also susceptible to growths of mold. Mold growing in an ink bottle will very quickly start growths of mold in your pens, as shown to the left. Keep your bottles tightly sealed except when you’re actually filling your pens. If you discover a scum or sludge of mold in one of your ink bottles, discard the ink. Before reusing the bottle, sterilize both the bottle and the cap by boiling them in tap water for five minutes. Pens that have mold in them must be disassembled so that all parts exposed to ink can be disinfected with a fungicide. (This is usually a job for a professional.)
Other inks and ink-like fluids (India ink, acrylic artists’ inks, watercolor paints, correction fluid, etc.) are suspensions, not solutions. These fluids contain finely ground pigments that are still in the solid state, floating (suspended) in a liquid vehicle, and you should not put them in your fountain pens.
The solids in these fluids cannot flow smoothly through the tiny capillary ink fissures in a fountain pen, and they will inevitably clog the pen. Sometimes you can soak a clog out using an ammonia solution or a solvent designed for this purpose, such as Koh-I-Noor pen cleaner for India-ink clogs, but it’s also possible to find a clog that cannot be soaked out. In this case, it’s necessary to disassemble the pen, soak the interior parts to loosen the clog, and then remove the clog mechanically by “flossing†the ink fissures with a thin sheet of brass or other tool. Some of these fluids, such as correction fluid (“white-outâ€), contain solvents that will actually damage your pens. (I mention correction fluid specifically because a client once sent me a pen that had been filled with it. Correction fluid is not white ink!)
Health and Hygiene
Although they require very little routine care, fountain pens are not entirely maintenance free. Like any mechanical device, your pens will perform better if they are clean. And because their working parts are mostly on the inside, that’s where they need to be kept clean. As I said earlier, ink is a solution, with no solids in it. But the dyes and other solutes are solids if they’re not dissolved in water. And because there is always some evaporation in a filled pen, even if it’s capped, the ink inside gradually becomes more concentrated, and the dyes can come out of solution to clog the ink fissures. Or the ink can even dry out completely, leaving serious clogs behind. This means that it’s a good practice to flush and refill your pens once a month or so. The Parker 61, which relies on a good capillary flow for its filling, is especially sensitive to excessive solids in its interior. As with staining, some inks are worse about depositing solid matter on your pens; reds are notorious in this regard, and a pen that is used with red ink will frequently show a build-up of red matter around the nib and feed.
You should also flush a pen thoroughly when changing inks, even between colors of the same brand. Although most inks are chemically compatible and will not clog or damage your pen when mixed,[1] you will find that changing inks without flushing can result in some strange and wonderful colors. (By “wonderful,†I mean you’ll wonder where that color ever came from!)
In general, you flush a pen by emptying it and then repeatedly filling and emptying it using water. In actual practice, the task is usually a little more complicated, especially with pens that have a secondary ink reservoir. The Parker “51â€, with its patented collector, was the first pen with this feature, but it is not alone; most pens made today have a large number of fine comb cuts on the part of the feed that is concealed within the section, and this area, whether it is actually called a collector or not, functions as one by holding a significant amount of ink.
One of the most effective ways to clear a pen of ink or water after you have expelled as much as the filling system can push out, is to wrap the nib end in several thicknesses of tissue or paper towel and shake the pen down vigorously with strong “flips†of the wrist, as you would shake down an old-fashioned mercury medical thermometer. Shaking in this way acts like a centrifuge, forcing the ink out through the nib and feed, and into the paper. To clean a pen, therefore, empty it and shake it down; then fill and repeat, using water, until all you get out is clear water.
A question that comes up frequently enough to be in a FAQ is “How do I empty my pen?†For most pens, you simply cycle the filling mechanism. The key to emptying a Parker Vacumatic is patience. Press the plunger very slowly, slowly enough to take several seconds for a full stroke, until a drop of ink â€" not bubbles â€" appears. You can now finish the stroke a little less slowly but still not quickly. Release the plunger, wait a couple of seconds for the ink to settle, and repeat the process until you cannot get a real drop to appear. The Vacumatic-filling “51†is particularly reluctant to yield up its ink, and it will usually disgorge only a few drops per plunger cycle. Most “51â€s require a significant number of plunger cycles. When you cannot extract a drop regardless of how slowly you press the plunger, shake the pen down as described earlier.
Cartridge/converter pens are convenient to fill, and they are also really easy to flush. If you don’t already have an ear syringe, visit your local drug store and buy one. This is a rubber bulb, sized to fit comfortably in the hand, with a “snout†that fits reasonably well into the cartridge receptacle on most pens. (It will actually fit onto the nipple in many pens.) Fill the syringe with water, remove the pen’s cartridge or converter, and force water through the pen with the syringe. (If you’re removing a cartridge that isn’t yet empty, it’s perfectly all right to reuse the cartridge; just be sure to keep its open end upward and to cover the opening in some way to keep dust and other foreign materials out while you flush the pen.) If the syringe isn’t a good enough fit, clamp your fingers around the joint between syringe and pen in order to prevent as much spray as possible. Do this over a sink or in the bathtub, and rinse away any mess afterward.
You can also use an ear syringe to flush a capillary-filling Parker 61, but you will need to modify the syringe by cutting off part of its nozzle. Cut off enough that the remaining opening fits snugly over the pen’s capillary cell case (the Teflon-coated metal cylinder inside the barrel). See the illustration to the left. Fill the syringe with water, insert the cell case into the opening, and immerse the nib end of the pen into a sink partially filled with water. Squeeze. To refill the syringe, release while the nib remains immersed; this draws water backward through the pen. Then remove the syringe, empty it of its inky water contents, and refill with clear water. Repeat the squeeze/release cycle until the water you drive through the pen is essentially clear. Then remove the syringe and blow through the pen into a wad of paper towel to eject the last remaining water. (If the pen has been allowed to dry out completely, it’s a good idea to leave it soaking in cool water, filler end downward, overnight, and then repeat the flushing procedure.)
To keep the outside of your pens clean, you can use any good non-abrasive cleaner and polish, such as Flitz Metal Polish, which works quite well on nonmetallic surfaces, too. Apply the polish and buff it off using a clean dry rag made of 100% cotton flannel. Synthetic fabrics, such as acrylics or polyester, are harder than the pens themselves, and these fabrics can scratch. Simichrome, although it is well known and widely available at antique shops, motorcycle shops, and many other locations, is not recommended for ordinary maintenance because it is abrasive. Brasso, a widely used household polishing product, is more abrasive and chemically harsher; never use it on your pens.
Rest and Relaxation
When you take a pen out of your rotation, what do you do with it? 50 years ago, you’d have pitched it into the desk drawer with your letter openers, paper clips, and other assorted hostile objects. But not today.
The best place to store pens is a pen cabinet lined with suede or felt or cotton flannel â€" or, at a minimum, a sturdy pen case designed to protect them from being jostled and banged around. Some velvet is made of nylon, which can actually scratch some pens, so unless you’re certain that the velvet in a case you’re considering is natural, don’t use it. Inexpensive pasteboard boxes with dividers, while attractive because they allow you to store a large number of pens cheaply, are not really such a good idea, especially if they are made of recycled materials. The pasteboard of which they are made can contain tiny bits of abrasive materials, which will of course damage your pens.
Do not store your pens in sealed plastic bags. (In fact, I recommend you avoid plastic bags altogether except for very short-term use.) Most bags are made of plastics that exhale chemicals (called “outgassingâ€), and they can damage the surface finish of your pens. Flush most pens before storing them, and store them dry. Pens with cork pistons, such as early Pelikans, should be kept filled to keep the corks from drying out.
You can store pens horizontally or vertically. If you store them vertically, I recommend placing them nib upward. If your pen cabinet has a glass window in its top or front, do not locate it where direct sunlight or light from any other strong ultraviolet source (an arc welder, for example) can fall on it. Light strong in ultraviolet, called actinic light, can damage pens. Hard rubber pens, especially, do not respond well, as you know if you’ve ever seen a once-black hard rubber pen that is now more or less brown or olive green.
Travel
When you take your pens on vacation, you really don’t want them spitting all over you or the interior of your luggage. For this reason, it’s best to ink only the one or two pens that you will actually carry while you’re on the train or airplane. Fill your “carry†pens completely, and carry them nib upward when they’re not in use. And don’t try to use them during the period when your plane is climbing to altitude. The cabin pressure is being adjusted at that time, and your pens will be much more likely to spit, blob, or flood then.
Pens that are going along for the ride, to be used while you’re writing the Great American Novel in your Adirondack mountain retreat, will travel more happily if they’re empty. In a strong pen case is the best place for them to be; but you can also wrap them in tissue and pack them in hard plastic tubes of the kind sold for toothbrushes. You can also use the two-part tubes that some pen dealers ship their pens in, or you can even cut several lengths of PVC plumbing pipe. (Schedule 20, the lightest PVC pipe, is plenty sturdy for this use.) Wrap the pens in tissue or paper towel to keep them from rattling around in the tubes.
If you need to carry extra ink, the best way is to seal it in a zip-lock plastic bag and pack it in the bottom of your carry-on luggage. Entrusting bottles of ink to the tender mercies of airport baggage handlers can be a recipe for disaster. Given the exigencies of today’s security-conscious airport environment, however, you might prefer to put your ink in your checked baggage. To do this with a very high degree of safety, ball the zip-lock bag up in two pairs of athletic socks (or three or four pairs of dress socks) before packing it toward the center of your suitcase.
Sorry, Julia, but I can't let that comment slip past. Anyone advertising a "gold nib" should be using a solid gold nib. The material may be 14 karat or 18 karat and it may be masked with other metals such as platinum, but it still should be gold throughout. The Penchetta nibs and the Heritage 18 nibs are definitely solid. So are my Namikis, Waterman's, Bexley's, etc.
wdcav1952
Activities Manager Emeritus
I guess after all this technical information my idea of licking the tip of the nib to get the ink flowing is too easy? [
)]
)]
Firefyter-emt
Member
I would personaly not try the PVC method in airplane flights, unless you enjoy full body cavity searches... [}] I think that a suitcase full of PVC pipes with caps on the end might just raise an eyebrow!
==> "Pens that are going along for the ride, to be used while you’re writing the Great American Novel in your Adirondack mountain retreat, will travel more happily if they’re empty. In a strong pen case is the best place for them to be; but you can also wrap them in tissue and pack them in hard plastic tubes of the kind sold for toothbrushes. You can also use the two-part tubes that some pen dealers ship their pens in, or you can even cut several lengths of PVC plumbing pipe. (Schedule 20, the lightest PVC pipe, is plenty sturdy for this use.) Wrap the pens in tissue or paper towel to keep them from rattling around in the tubes. "
] I think that a suitcase full of PVC pipes with caps on the end might just raise an eyebrow!==> "Pens that are going along for the ride, to be used while you’re writing the Great American Novel in your Adirondack mountain retreat, will travel more happily if they’re empty. In a strong pen case is the best place for them to be; but you can also wrap them in tissue and pack them in hard plastic tubes of the kind sold for toothbrushes. You can also use the two-part tubes that some pen dealers ship their pens in, or you can even cut several lengths of PVC plumbing pipe. (Schedule 20, the lightest PVC pipe, is plenty sturdy for this use.) Wrap the pens in tissue or paper towel to keep them from rattling around in the tubes. "
gerryr
Member
Julia, the gold nibs I refer to are gold nibs from either Anthony or Lou. It doesn't matter to me what color a steel nib is, it's still a steel nib. Two of my fountain pens with gold nibs are using the feed that came with the kit and another one, a Churchill uses the feed that came with the nib when I bought it from Anthony. I did say that this was my experience, your mileage may vary. I guess I should buy a Lamy Safari and see how it writes after 3-4 days of not being used.
PenWorks
Member
The Safari's are like a Timex, they keep on ticking.........
My Safari's will write after a week with the cap on. No joke.
My Safari's will write after a week with the cap on. No joke.
Scott
Member
I usually keep three or four pens in my rotation, meaning pens I intend to use at any time. If a pen finds itself not being used for a length of time, say a week, I generally clean it out and set it aside, in which case it is out of rotation. So for my purposes I use most pens in my rotation every day, and at the very least about every two or three days. With the cap on, most pens will manage this. If the cap is off for even 15 minutes, which is my mistake, I would expect the pen to punish me for this lapse by being hard to start. [:0]
If a pen has decided to be hard to start, I quite often use the damp tissue wiping the nib. I have, in a pinch, wet the tip of the nib on my tongue, but this really doesn't work all that well. I have lightly dipped part of the nib in some water. But most often I twist the knob on the converter or piston to force some ink out, wetting the feed and nib with fresh ink. Beware this technique though, because you may find yourself twisting the knob on the filling mechanism all the way without producing even a drop of fresh ink, confirming that you are a fool for thinking your poor pen is hard starting when it is really just out of ink!!!
Good Luck! Have Fun!
Scott.
If a pen has decided to be hard to start, I quite often use the damp tissue wiping the nib. I have, in a pinch, wet the tip of the nib on my tongue, but this really doesn't work all that well. I have lightly dipped part of the nib in some water. But most often I twist the knob on the converter or piston to force some ink out, wetting the feed and nib with fresh ink. Beware this technique though, because you may find yourself twisting the knob on the filling mechanism all the way without producing even a drop of fresh ink, confirming that you are a fool for thinking your poor pen is hard starting when it is really just out of ink!!!
Good Luck! Have Fun!
Scott.