walkingsticks

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clewless

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Nov 29, 2005
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506
Location
Cecilton, MD, USA.
David,

From what I understand a stick handle should be just over the inside of the wrist when standing with arms at your side.

Made my first two walking sticks today for my dad (91) and DIL (87).

I found the sticks to be buggers from start to end. Made one from redheart and the other from curly mahogany. Would post photos but have already wrapped them.

1. Needed to drill the connector holes 1/64 larger than called for as the wood was very hard and I couldn't make threads in it easily. Of course they aren't standard threads so I couldn't tap the holes like I do with bottle stoppers.

2. Put epoxy on 5/16 threads and start, then put epoxy on 29/64 threads. This way you're using the sticks turning against each other to seat the connectors.

3. The diameter they call for on top is too large IMHO so I kept trimming it till I could get the connector flange to screw on. Of course one got too loose, so good ole' epoxy was used to secure that one, the other was a tight fit.

4. Although I trimmed the stick ends square before drilling and seated the connectors flush, I found the sticks to be not quite straight when assembled.

5. I have one more to make,(not for tomorrow) and for it I bought the new top with the hole through it so you can turn your own handle. This is a slip fit over the shaft with a double headed lag screw to attach the head to the shaft. Hopefully this will assemble with less angst.

6. I was not happy with the way the jacobs chuck held the screws for turning. Hopefully, Santa will bring me a Beall chuck which I think would be better.

All in all I think they will make nice presents.
 

jclark58

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Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
206
Location
Mesa, AZ, USA.
Turned this one yesterday as a gift for my 26 BIL. Some of the issues I experienced mirror those already brought up.

1. Drilling the holes the recommended size made threading the couplers in nearly impossible. Like clewless I also ended up drilling the holes 1/64 larger than the instructions. I chose to use CA to secure the couplers due to a lack of time.

2. The brass coupler from CSUSA is a nice touch but is much heavier than anticipated and adds quite a bit to the cost of the cane.

3. The double ended lag screw used to secure the handle to the shaft broke in half while being assembled. A quick trip to one of the Borg stores netted a small brass screw to secure the coupler to the shaft (on the backside of the handle.

4. I chose to turn the handle on 3 centers to provide an oval shape to fit the hand better. 2 centers were offset by just over 1/4" but it was more than enough to give the shape I wanted. A 3rd center allowed the tenon for the coupler to be turned round. I turned a prototype out of scrap mesquite a couple of days prior to turning the actual handle out of 6/4 chechen.

5. While I believe it is possible to turn the kit with 4/4 lumber I chose to rip a piece of 5/4 chechen lumber for the shaft prior to cutting the pieces to length.

tn_cane.jpg


tn_canehandle.jpg


Jason
 

clewless

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Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
506
Location
Cecilton, MD, USA.
Jason, one more pic please of the modification/brass screw...when I looked at the supplied screw I though it looks too weak.

How was the brass to drill and countersink?

Never intentionally tried off center turning [:)] sounds like a good skill to learn.

Nice stick.
 

BigRob777

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Joined
May 1, 2005
Messages
2,717
Location
Newark, Delaware, USA.
Being a wood-on-the-mind guy, I hope to make my canes with either round ends, or like a tee, with motrise and tenon. I don't plan to use a kit, for my first few, but may go that route later. I've supplied a few guys with cane-wood and would love to see pics. I want to make some out of tulipwood and kingwood.
I have a wood tap and die, so I might even make the handle screw-on.
Rob
 

jclark58

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
206
Location
Mesa, AZ, USA.
Clewless, Below are photos of the brass screw used to secure the coupler to the shaft. It was easy to drill, just make sure to use a small punch so the bit doesn't wander. I also pre-drilled the shaft to accept the set screw without splitting. I chose a round headed screw so I didn't need to use a countersink. BTW, I did pre-drill both the shaft and the handle before trying to use the double ended screw. It still broke.

Also below is a photo of the end of the handle showing the oval cross-section resulting from turning on multiple centers.

tn_canehandle2.jpg


tn_handlexsection.jpg


Jason
 
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