Solid (non-hollowed) birdhouse ornaments

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RogerGarrett

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A number of folks have asked, so here you go:

Select the woods - contrasting are best. Cut a block and a flat block that is slightly bigger in diameter than the body blck. Use scrap from the same woods for finials.

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Glue the block and flatter piece toghter. These will become the main body and the roof.

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Drill the holes much as you would a pen blank - using 7 mm drill bit and tubes glued in. Mount the blanks on the mandrel and turn to cylinder.

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turn the shapes you want. Be careful to keep in mind final fit for the finials on both top and bottom.

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Set up the lathe with a chuck (Nova is what I use) and clamp the smaller scrap for the bottom finial in place. Turn the tenon first matching the size with the inside dimensions of the brass tube. Then, keeping in mind the mating surface on the main body, turn the shape you want.

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Sand, part and glue the bottom finial into the bottom of the birdhouse. I then repeat the process with the top finial - dry fitting it often to check the slope/fit of the finial to the roof slope/angle.

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Drill the hole in the top of the finial for the chosen eyehook and glue them in. I use the following for eyehooks - they are inexpensive and easy to find at Hobby Lobby or any jewelry supply store or hobby shop.

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Using 1/4 and 3/8 forstner bits, I drill the holes for the dowel (offset) and the simulated doors.

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Spay lacquer using a compressor/spray gun - or aerosol if you don't have the former - hang the ornaments and allow to dry. After drying, sponge sand, glue in the dowel, and put on a second coat of lacuqer.

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Hot glue the miature birds (available at CSUSA, Hobby Lobby, and many local crafts stores) onto the dowel, and you are done.

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Here are some other shapes that seem to work well. I've also found that woods that contrast, such as spalted maple, holly, and buckeye work well for the roof and finials, and woods such as cocobolo, walnut, figured cherry, myrtlewood, burled white oak, rosewood, and other more exotic woods, seem to work well for the body. Round or oblong shapes that have longer bottom finials seem to be favored over shorter finials. These all sell for $17-20 each - and I sell out quickly.

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Have fun!

Best,
Roger Garrett
 
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BigRob777

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Wunnadeesdaze! I hope to do these for my family next year. Yours look nice. Thanks for the tutorial and the great idea for hangers. I wondered if they were all turned on centers. Now I know.
Rob
 

RogerGarrett

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Originally posted by airrat
<br />Very nice looking, just curious how much do they weigh?

Thanks for the tutorial.

It really depends on the wood used. The houses with a cocobolo body will weigh more than those with a mahogany or cedar body - but I would say in the 8 oz. range?

Best,
Roger Garrett
 

RogerGarrett

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Bloomington, Illinois, USA.
Originally posted by kent4Him
<br />Roger, That is not even close to how I turn mine. I'll have to do a picture tutorial of mine sometime.

Well, you don't have to turn them like I do. They can really be made any way you like - whatever works best for you. I used to drill a 1/4 inch hole through the blank and glue them onto an oak dowel and turn between centers. Before that, I just turned everything between centers. The drawback I ran into when turning between centers was that a great deal of scrap was simply too short - and it became difficult and time consuming to make it work. The mandrel approach really solved a lot of problems - and once I got into a groove, I could crank them out pretty fast. I take more time with the more expensive woods - because in the end, they attract people first - and they are often the first to go.

I gave about 15 of them away as gifts - and the response has been quite overwhelming.

I would be interested in seeing your approach sometime - always a chance to steal a technique or two and make my life easier!

Best,
Roger Garrett
 
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