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Old 11-30-2018, 01:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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OK, Ed. Duck tape might work instead of the oddball screw.
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Do you have a friend with a metal lathe, could make a tap. Iíve made several in the past on my little 7x10 lathe.
You could try mold release and set it with epoxy and unscrew it.

Here is a good place to go to calculate thread sizes and converting between metric and imperial sizes.

http://theoreticalmachinist.com/Thre...dImperial.aspx

Danny


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Old 11-30-2018, 07:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Making your own specialty taps. Bock 5 mm

Link on making specialty taps.

Last edited by More4dan; 11-30-2018 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 11-30-2018, 07:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed McDonnell View Post
Berea was no help. I suspect they are just reselling a kit they buy in bulk somewhere and they didn't do the design.

I've never bought anything from Berea, and based on Ed's experience, I never will.

Problem 1: as consumers, we should be expect vendors to support the products they sell us, and if they won't/can't, then there are alternate products from other vendors.

Problem 2: using a non-standard thread is a really dumb design. The pizza cutter assembly clearly is manufactured, and cutting threads in the mounting stud is part of that manufacturing process, but I'm sure that it would have been less expensive to source standard threaded inserts, and then specify that a matching standard thread be machined into the cutter.

Problem 3: the best way to install threaded inserts is to screw a matching bolt (or a threaded shaft with a nut) into the insert, and then use a hex driver to drive the insert into the wood. Using a screwdriver, as suggested in the instructions for this kit, is a great way to bugger up the insert while still not driving it into the wood.

Problem 4: Berea Hardwoods like to sell wood, but they would sell more kits if they designed them to work easily with plastic materials as well as wood.
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Old 11-30-2018, 10:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by More4dan View Post
Making your own specialty taps. Bock 5 mm

Link on making specialty taps.
Hi Danny - I made a tap after reading your post back then. Never said thanks, so a belated thanks. It worked ok on wood and resin. Not so good on metal. I suspect I didn't get the heat treating right. I ended up getting it stuck in a piece of copper and made a pretty good mess of things trying to get it out. I'm going to try making a tap again some day, but not for this project.

I thought about using epoxy or alumilite to cast the threads, but the threads on this cutter frame are rough and I don't think the plastic threads would hold up to very many handle removals.

The threaded stud on the cutter frame has flats on two sides. Almost like it might be capable of self tapping. Maybe I'll try using one as a tap and see what happens. If I bung up the threads I can always just epoxy it permanently into the handle.



Ed
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Old 11-30-2018, 11:07 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Hi Louie - Overall, I've been satisfied with the products I've gotten from Berea. These pizza cutters are probably one of the least satisfactory Berea products I've dealt with. I only paid $6 for them and I think they are worth that (but not any more). I wouldn't be surprised to see Berea drop the kit or change over to a new kit from a different supplier.

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Old 12-01-2018, 09:54 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Can you chase the male threads with a more comon die? Iíve done that before if youíre close.
This is what I do for some of the knives I buy. I've contacted the manf. about the scale screws without any results. Went to a hardware store, bought a drill bit, tap and die and now have custom threaded holes that I can thread a brass rod in. Saves me a bunch of time and a lot of headaches.
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Old 12-01-2018, 10:54 AM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed McDonnell View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by More4dan View Post
Making your own specialty taps. Bock 5 mm



Link on making specialty taps.


Hi Danny - I made a tap after reading your post back then. Never said thanks, so a belated thanks. It worked ok on wood and resin. Not so good on metal. I suspect I didn't get the heat treating right. I ended up getting it stuck in a piece of copper and made a pretty good mess of things trying to get it out. I'm going to try making a tap again some day, but not for this project.



I thought about using epoxy or alumilite to cast the threads, but the threads on this cutter frame are rough and I don't think the plastic threads would hold up to very many handle removals.



The threaded stud on the cutter frame has flats on two sides. Almost like it might be capable of self tapping. Maybe I'll try using one as a tap and see what happens. If I bung up the threads I can always just epoxy it permanently into the handle.







Ed


Copper can be tough to thread even with a traditional tap. A former tap might be a better solution. Good luck finding those in a specialty thread though. It bends the material instead of cutting.

Why do you want to be able to remove the handle? I guess it would allow you to wash in the dish washer. JB weld and some other high temp epoxies are good to high temperatures (450 F) and would withstand the DW temps. With metal to metal you donít have to worry about using a clear epoxy.

Danny


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Last edited by More4dan; 12-01-2018 at 10:57 AM.
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:12 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Hi Danny - My plan for the handle was to have a metal core that I engraved / carved and then encapsulated in clear resin. I'm concerned about how clear PR will hold up to a dishwasher over time. And I know for sure that aluminum / brass doesn't do well in a dishwasher.

After sleeping on it, my current plan of action is to bore out a snug fit recess for the threaded insert then epoxy it into the end of the metal rod. Not an optimal solution, but it will have to do.

Ed
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Old 12-01-2018, 03:40 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed McDonnell View Post
Hi Danny - My plan for the handle was to have a metal core that I engraved / carved and then encapsulated in clear resin. I'm concerned about how clear PR will hold up to a dishwasher over time. And I know for sure that aluminum / brass doesn't do well in a dishwasher.



After sleeping on it, my current plan of action is to bore out a snug fit recess for the threaded insert then epoxy it into the end of the metal rod. Not an optimal solution, but it will have to do.



Ed


JB Weld might still be a better adhesive for the insert if it did make its way to the dishwasher without removal. Had a friend repair the head on his outboard motor with it. Lasted several years.


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