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Old 01-11-2019, 11:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default PSI Bottle Stopper mandrel help

So I wanted to turn a couple bottle stoppers. I bought a kit from PSI that had blanks, stoppers, mandrel, tap and drill bit. Everything was going decent until I tried to take the blank off the mandrel. It just spin around and would not thread off. I eventually had to take the edge of a knife and put pressure underneath to get the thing to come off. Anyone ever use this kit and know what I can do for the next one to help get it off the mandrel? Thanks!
I know I could just TBC, but the blanks are just long enough to make the stopper. If I attempt to tenon it, I won't have enough wood to turn.
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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I glue in the inserts that thread onto the mandrel and stopper. Keeps things secure and allows the stopper to be removed for cleaning. You can also glue the stopper to the blank when complete.
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by bsshog40 View Post
Everything was going decent until I tried to take the blank off the mandrel. It just spin around and would not thread off.
Sounds like you stripped the threads. That's easy to do with some hardwoods, mainly because stoppers are usually spindle turnings, so the hole you are drilling and tapping is end-grain. As a result, the threads are very weak.

The best solution to this problem is to use a threaded insert. You can purchase metal inserts at the hardware store, and some stopper kits (but not PSI kits) come with inserts. I make my own from wood, but with the hole drilled and tapped in face grain so that the threads are much stronger. Here's an earlier thread on this subject.
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Old 01-12-2019, 08:45 AM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monophoto View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsshog40 View Post
Everything was going decent until I tried to take the blank off the mandrel. It just spin around and would not thread off.
Sounds like you stripped the threads. That's easy to do with some hardwoods, mainly because stoppers are usually spindle turnings, so the hole you are drilling and tapping is end-grain. As a result, the threads are very weak.

The best solution to this problem is to use a threaded insert. You can purchase metal inserts at the hardware store, and some stopper kits (but not PSI kits) come with inserts. I make my own from wood, but with the hole drilled and tapped in face grain so that the threads are much stronger. Here's an earlier thread on this subject.
I too have had the treads strip as Louie described. I now use the inserts which i epoxy in.. The only draw back is, you have to wait to let the epoxy cure.
I got the inserts from "Wood Turningz" I have seen the same type for much cheaper at Home Depot but wasn't sure of the tread size. Next time i need some. I will bring the mandrel with me to size it..
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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The same thing happened to me with another manufacturer's threaded mandrel; I even used a silicone washer to prevent this. However, in my usual haste, I did not clear-out the "chips" as often as I should have when I cutting the threads. That is the only step that I could attribute my experience to.

To remove the bstopper, I tried freezing the mandrel, heating the mandrel, vibrating the mandrel, asked folks much strongrt than me to try. Eventually I just turned it off (basically destroyed it). Anyway, I now clear-out my threads more frequently. That is the only that I could think of for my situation.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I don't use a mandrel at all on my bottle stoppers.. ran into similar problem and just looked for another solution... I use a pin chuck to turn bottle stoppers... a 3/8" rod in my collet chuck, then ground a flat on one end and use a small nail as the pin... tap the blank the flat with the nail in place and then twist to lock... when finished you can then wiggle the stopper a bit and pull it off the rod... I glue the insert of the stopper into the place.
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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I have the same mandrel and have had the same exact problem. There are two things you can do that I've used. First, after you drill the hole in the blank, glue in a hardwood dowel then redrill the hole and do your threading or, use a live center on the tail stock that will give you the ability to put tension against the mandrel face. As for removing, you have to put tension on the mandrel while you try to unscrew the blank which usually strips the threads. That's where the dowel comes in. Good luck
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Sounds like it's just going to be a problem I guess. There are no inserts. I have to tap the blank and then just screw it onto the mandrel. I'm not really sure if I striped the threads though or at least all of them. After I turned it, the blank just spun around and around no matter how hard I tried to pull at the same time. When I finally got it off, the stopper threaded in just fine. I'm thinking that the mandrel made the threads loose their twist and wound up making the threads straight. The pressure from turning may have caused the mandrel to re-thread/tap so to say.
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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I have the same mandrel and have had the same exact problem. There are two things you can do that I've used. First, after you drill the hole in the blank, glue in a hardwood dowel then redrill the hole and do your threading or, use a live center on the tail stock that will give you the ability to put tension against the mandrel face. As for removing, you have to put tension on the mandrel while you try to unscrew the blank which usually strips the threads. That's where the dowel comes in. Good luck
I may check into doing something different for the threads. Thanks for the tip. I do use my live center during the whole turn until I'm ready to work on the top.
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Old 01-12-2019, 10:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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I do it a little different. For hardwood blanks I drilled the hole and drizzled thin CA on the walls of the hole, I let it sit over night and then tap the threads, then again drizzle some CA glue on the threads, let it sit overnight, re tap the threads. This gives a better set of threads. Then I turn, before I start sanding I unscrew the blank, because the rough finish gives a better grip. Reattach the blank to the mandrel and finish with the sanding.

My method for softer wood, I cut 1" long pieces of 3/4 maple dowels, and do the same as above. When I made these, I would make a BUNCH at one time. Then when I was ready to make bottle stoppers, I drilled a 1" deep hole in the end of my blanks and proceeded as described above.

Failure to let the CA dry, or get it to hot while turning, and you will glue it all together. you then get to turn the blank into chips and soak the mandrel threads in acetone. Same will happen with the tap if you try to tap it before the CA is cured.
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