Japanese cherry tree

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
See more from clement

Status
Not open for further replies.

clement

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
155
Location
Court st Etienne, Belgium.
Hi all,
I received a couple of japanese cherry tree burls past week. The trees comes from a park and are more than 100 years old. The burls are'nt really dry but I could'nt resist to put the smallest of them on the lathe [:I]
It have not a great figure but it gives a nice bowl.


200751541948_Cerisier%20du%20Japon.jpg




200751542020_Cerisier%20du%20Japon02.jpg




200751542051_Cerisier%20du%20Japon01.jpg



Hope you like it,

clem
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Fred

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2007
Messages
3,557
Location
N.E. Atlanta, Georgia U.S.A.
Clem, to maintain the bowl from drying out, why not send it out to be "stabilized?" Now that it is turned the process will only fill most of the larger voids and all of the smaller ones. The process will also preserve the wood forever. When it comes back about all you would need to do is refinish it and that is hardly ever a lot of effort.

I believe the burl will definitely be enhanced in all aspects.

Preturn the others to a degree and send them out as well. Search the FORUM for vendors to use unless you have one you already use.

The turning presented here is very well done. I want to Thank You for sharing it with us. Now, turn the others and let us see what you have made of them as well. [:D]
 

clement

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
155
Location
Court st Etienne, Belgium.
Originally posted by Fred_erick
<br />Clem, to maintain the bowl from drying out, why not send it out to be "stabilized?" Now that it is turned the process will only fill most of the larger voids and all of the smaller ones. The process will also preserve the wood forever. When it comes back about all you would need to do is refinish it and that is hardly ever a lot of effort.
Fred,
Actually I was'nt able to find someone that could stabilise wood in my country. Is there not a method that I can use by myself ?
I will let the other burls dry before turning them.
Thanks for the comments,
clem
 

underdog

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2006
Messages
604
Location
Watkinsville, Georgia
There are several methods you can use to dry bowls to help prevent movement. At the very least one could wrap the roughouts in newspaper or paper bag and let dry for six months to a year. The idea is to prevent rapid loss of moisture, i.e. control the drying process. Some turners even coat their roughouts with Anchor Seal (wax emulsion).

If you Google "David Smith DNA drying" you should find his method of using Denatured Alcohol to dry bowls. This has been a controversial subject in turning circles but users swear by it.

You can also use a liquid dishwashing soap to soak and dry wood as well. I'm sure there's a tutorial on the internet for this as well.

And last of all, I've heard that you can use a form of Ethylene Glycol (PEG) to soak and dry. I've heard that this can affect finishes, but have no experience with this.

Actually the only method of drying I have experience with is the newspaper/airdry route.

Those are the methods I'm familiar with, and you may try any or all of the above with varying results.

Good luck!
 

clement

Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
155
Location
Court st Etienne, Belgium.
Originally posted by underdog
<br />There are several methods you can use to dry bowls to help prevent movement. At the very least one could wrap the roughouts in newspaper or paper bag and let dry for six months to a year. The idea is to prevent rapid loss of moisture, i.e. control the drying process. Some turners even coat their roughouts with Anchor Seal (wax emulsion).

Thanks for the tip,
I use a similar method since I learned it from a turner with more experience than I have. It works very good but it takes a lot of time. In this case I was impatient to see what the wood should like after turning. The other logs are safely drying and they will stay until they are dry enough for turning.
I've read about an other method that consist to dump the wood in hot frying oil for 1 hour, don't test it yet but a friend of mine has do it and it seems that it works nice. The only problem is in case of big woodlogs, you need to have a big container and a lot of oil [:(]
have a nice day,
clem
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2006
Messages
8,206
Location
Tellico Plains, Tennessee, USA.
Clement,
Down in Texas and Louisana they have turkey fryers.. big caldrons that is filled with oil and heated with a propane burner.. holds about 5 gallons of oil and deep fries whole turkeys.. might be the ticket[?]
 

jtate

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2006
Messages
781
Location
Brentwood, TN, USA.
Beautiful bowl!

Dario, can you share the microwave technique? My microwave technique consists of standing there with my finger on the STOP button and praying fervently while the rough turned bowl sizzles.
 

Dario

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
8,222
Location
Austin, TX, USA.
Julia,

There are various factors to consider when doing the microwave (MW) method.
1. Power of MW.
2. Size/volume of piece.
3. Time.
4. Type of wood.

There are tons of info on how to do it online but will share my style/experience since you requested.

You will have to experiment and see how much time to set your MW on a certain power level you need for each piece. In time you will be able to do it instinctively.

I will err on the side of caution at first and move up (either increase power or lengthen time).

Ideally, you want the wood to feel warm but NOT reach the boiling point of the water inside.

Most people weigh their piece between cycles but I don't. It does help though and I won't discredit it. Note that weight can be used as a reference for the time you will set your MW too.

I always wrap my piece in plastic or put it in plastic container to prevent the steam from reaching the MW's electronic components. I read and believe that the resulting steam is corrosive and damages the MW's electronics. Whether you take this precautionary step is up to you. Wrapping with heavy paper bag will probably work too.

1. Wrap wood piece in plastic bag.
2. MW using a certain setting. Note if the plastic bag is sealed you will see when it starts to "puff up" stop the MW when it does and note that time.
3. Remove the bag form the MW, open bag and remove the piece. Feel it if it is very hot, lessen the time next time. If the bag is moist inside, shake it dry...I usually turn in inside out.
4. Let the piece cool down for 10 minutes or so.
5. Re-wrap in plastic bag and re-MW (note the time may be adjusted as noted above).

Repeat as much as needed...depending on the size/volume, you may need to do this 5-10 times then apply finish. If you just want the piece to stabilize to prevent checking, you can do it 3-5 times then air dry.

Again there are lots of other styles in the web...read them then adapt one that you are most comfortable with or one that works for you.

Good luck!!!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom