scotian12
Member
Has anyone had experience with the new Artisan Comford Ring Cores from CSUSA? Does the thin veneer dry out and slit on the ring core. What is the best type of material to use? Thanks Darrell Esner
Comford Ring Cores
- Thread starter scotian12
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Mike@CSUSA
Member
Make sure your wood is dry and preferably stabilized if not an exotic. Spalted woods and burls are my favorites for rings. If you have questions turning them let me know. We also have a video on how to turn them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUJCkBRUKrY
scotian12
Member
Thank you Mike for your reply. Very good advice for an item that will get a lot of wear. Does anyone else have any experience with these ...ie how many sizes would you make or would you just take custom orders. How to handle sizing? Thanks Darrell
MTViper
Member
Here's a post I placed on the thread "Hollowing Rings" below:
I made the attached pair this weekend. In fact I made both of the twice. I drilled a series of Forstner bit holes in a waste board and tested the inserts for fit. I used the Forstner bit closest to the right size for each ring insert to bore the holes on the lathe after I turned the blank round. Then I took it off the lathe and used 80 grit sandpaper to get it to the final size I needed. I was using Purple Heart rather than one of the stabilized woods or synthetics. That's what the customer requested. One was a 10mm ring and the other a 3mm ring.
The first blank for the 3mm ring broke in half when I took it off the double sided tape. Let the glue dry for 48 hours then turned the rings. Turned the 10mm ring first. Had it almost down to size and was going to make one more tiny shaving pass when the blank shattered. Turned another one and glued it the insert and let it dry while I turned the 3mm ring. It turned easier than the 10mm ring for some reason. By the time the glue was dry, I was ready to turn the 10mm again. Customer was happy. Waiting to hear his wife's reaction. They are a surprise.
I made the attached pair this weekend. In fact I made both of the twice. I drilled a series of Forstner bit holes in a waste board and tested the inserts for fit. I used the Forstner bit closest to the right size for each ring insert to bore the holes on the lathe after I turned the blank round. Then I took it off the lathe and used 80 grit sandpaper to get it to the final size I needed. I was using Purple Heart rather than one of the stabilized woods or synthetics. That's what the customer requested. One was a 10mm ring and the other a 3mm ring.
The first blank for the 3mm ring broke in half when I took it off the double sided tape. Let the glue dry for 48 hours then turned the rings. Turned the 10mm ring first. Had it almost down to size and was going to make one more tiny shaving pass when the blank shattered. Turned another one and glued it the insert and let it dry while I turned the 3mm ring. It turned easier than the 10mm ring for some reason. By the time the glue was dry, I was ready to turn the 10mm again. Customer was happy. Waiting to hear his wife's reaction. They are a surprise.
Attachments
scotian12
Member
Steve...Thank you very much for your reply. I guess caution is the word and light cuts. Its an interesting project and would make the receipant very happy. Darrell
J-D pens
Member
MTViper
Member
J-D like your ring cores. Do you sell anywhere other than FB?
J-D pens
Member
Send me a pm
fernhills
Member
I have been making, or i should say experimenting with them. I got a few cores in from CSUSA along with a couple of bushing. I made a acrylic one by CSUSA instructions, it went well but i got to much epoxy inside of the core and scratched it trying to get it off. They are not the two piece type. I want to wrap it around the core like you do with bentwood rings. I feel like that should solve the problem of having to have to use stabilized wood. I can make my own veneers. I made some bentwood rings and was very impressed on how strong they were for not much thicker than a wooden match stick. So with a metal core, they should be very strong. Carl