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Casting & Stabilization Making your own blanks & stabilizing wood blanks.


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Old 12-07-2018, 12:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Worthless wood stabilizing didn't come out so good.

So I had some really cool buggy wood. I wanted to make some worthless wood out of it. I stabilized it I rapped it in foil first. Long story short. Theres resin every were. It could also have had moisture in it but dried it for 24 hours. I don't know what I did. I don't kown what is should look like coming out of the oven. I know it should bleed a little. I also know theres some clean up bit I don't think this is what them ment. I'm super discouraged. I think i ruined the wood. Please help if you can. Thank you a head of time. I feel defeated.


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Old 12-07-2018, 02:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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I might be able to help a little..very little..but, I've heard you don't need to wrap in foil. Put the wood on your grate/frame with something underneath to catch runoff from the wood.
Keeps the wood resin/crystal free. For all answers about worthless wood, we have a resident expert and founder of the name here on IAP. Curtis Seebeck...heck of a good guy and willing to help. https://www.turntex.com/
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Old 12-07-2018, 04:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Rocky gave a correct answer. If you're planning to stabilize and then cast with resin, don't wrap in foil. Also consider positioning the blanks so that ooze-out won't pool and then polymerize in crevices.

What you're showing looks normal for wrapped blanks.

You could try salvaging by picking out the polymerized resin. If you have a Dremel, you might be able to wire-wheel or grind it out.
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Old 12-07-2018, 06:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian G View Post
Rocky gave a correct answer. If you're planning to stabilize and then cast with resin, don't wrap in foil. Also consider positioning the blanks so that ooze-out won't pool and then polymerize in crevices.

What you're showing looks normal for wrapped blanks.

You could try salvaging by picking out the polymerized resin. If you have a Dremel, you might be able to wire-wheel or grind it out.
Do wire wheels work good? Someone told me to get some for cleaning bark off burls and wood.

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Old 12-07-2018, 06:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockb View Post
I might be able to help a little..very little..but, I've heard you don't need to wrap in foil. Put the wood on your grate/frame with something underneath to catch runoff from the wood.
Keeps the wood resin/crystal free. For all answers about worthless wood, we have a resident expert and founder of the name here on IAP. Curtis Seebeck...heck of a good guy and willing to help. https://www.turntex.com/
I talked.to curtis a couple hours ago.

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Old 12-07-2018, 06:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by jxdubbs View Post
Do wire wheels work good? Someone told me to get some for cleaning bark off burls and wood.
I've had success with Dremel wire wheels with bark and dirt. The wheels don't last long, though. I don't know how it would work for your issue.
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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I think I'll stand with a dremel wheel and then grind the rest .

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Old 12-07-2018, 10:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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G'day,

As soon as I read your post, I knew exactly what happened and to be honest it did happen to me and many others that may or may not want to admit they did the same mistake and yes, the important thing to remember for blanks like these is to allow the wood to drip for as long as possible before "cooking", the position of the wood fro dripping and cooking should be positioned down with the lower spots and any other crevasses that you want to cast, this allows the resin to drip out of the wood before and while cooking.

Drip tray in the oven is a must, covering it with foil paper make the cleaning up a lot easier.

One point to mention just as a note of caution, cooking wood that has been soaked with CJ without wrapping it with foil, is prone to smoke more and the most important thing is to prevent at any cost to set the oven past the 100 Celsius (90C as recommended), the possibility of fire is real if the elements get red hot and ignite the CJ, I not that, the mistake can happen by not checking the temp dial before turning the oven on but, most commonly, by turning the temp dial right up (200C or higher) to warm the oven quickly and then forget to turn the temp dial back to the suggested temp of 90C

These are points of interest in my view, for anyone that stabilises their on wood, these things are rare to happen but they do happen reason why Custis have made the great decision to offer the "fireballs" as a just in case situation, the risk is real particularly to new wood stabilisers, however, you don't need to panic or be scared of this possibility, becoming aware of what can happen is a great way to prevent an accident.

PS: heating the blanks again will make the resin softer and easier to remove.

Good luck,

Cheers
George
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Old Yesterday, 04:39 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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I use CJ and after the vacuum process i let it drain good and then take a long peice of foil and roll the first blank one time then lay a 2nd next to it, and roll it again. I do this until I have 4 to 6 blanks wraped up and ends folded up in a long flat package and they into the oven for 24 hours. They will break apart pretty easy like this.
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Old Yesterday, 04:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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You are that much closer to getting in done right and further ahead of those that never tried. :-)
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