Simar41 or Alumilite

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RDH79

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Ok I have done some casting with very little succcess afew years ago. . So I am going to try again

What should I order.
Silmar41

Alumilite Clear

Alumilite Water Clear

UI have a bunch of pigments and molds so just need to know what resin I should get. I have bought blanks from members that were great to trn. And some that were like glass. I prefer the softer blanks.
Thanks
Rich H
 
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ZanderPommo

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If turning ease is what you want get alumilite, I use PR but I dont mind turning it, and it is far cheaper than Alumilite, and from what I understand, alumilite is harder to mix, and is thicker as well.
Because it is so much thicker I think you are more prone to bubbles if you dont cast under pressure. With PR thinned by warm water you can cast bubble free with no pressure whatsoever.
a gallon of silmar 41 ships to my door for less than $50......:rolleyes:

(PS: i looooove turning alumilite)
 

wolftat

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If you are looking to make softer easier to turn blanks, I would go with the Alumilite, but you do need to use a pressure pot.
The Alumilte is only thicker when it is cool, if it is above 70 degrees, it is fine.
I use both in my shop, depends on the application.
 
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ZanderPommo

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PSS: if you want a more forgiving blank you can add less catalyst and wait longer for it to cure, but I like to use 4 drops per oz, any less and sometimes the heavier colors settle to the bottom..
 

biednick

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PR is a little easier to cast IMO BUT both resins are good for different things. For solid blanks, either works. For embedding tubes, PR works better. For embedding flexible things, or wood, alumilite is better. For embedding non-flexible things, PR works better. It really depends what you're doing. I usually use PR for solid blanks, but I use both.
 

its_virgil

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I don't understand "flexible and non-flexible" things. Snake skins and labels are flexible but alumilite is not the best choice for making snake skin blanks or label blanks. Do you consider snake skins and labels, once glued to the brass tube, to now be non-flexible? I'm just wondering?
Do a good turn daily!
Don

PR is a little easier to cast IMO BUT both resins are good for different things. For solid blanks, either works. For embedding tubes, PR works better. For embedding flexible things, or wood, alumilite is better. For embedding non-flexible things, PR works better. It really depends what you're doing. I usually use PR for solid blanks, but I use both.
 

MesquiteMan

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Sorry, but you have some innacurate information in your reply. Alumilite is NOT thicker than Silmar 41. Here are the viscosities of each:

Silmar 41: 470 CPS
Alumilite Water Clear: 450 CPS
Alumilite Clear: 400 CPS

The lower the viscosity, the "thinner" the material is so as you can see from actual technical data, both of the Alumilite clear products are "thinner" than PR.

Also, your statement about it being MUCH cheaper is also inaccurate unless you quantify "Much". Yes, it is cheaper. both of the Alumilite products mentioned above are $80 per gallon.

One big advantage of Alumilite that has not been mentioned is the lack of smell. It does have some odor but it is faint and will not stink up your entire shop like PR will. As for mixing, yes it is more particular in that it needs to be completely mixed but I don't really see that as an issue.

They both have their place. Alumilite is better for Worthless Wood while PR is better for labels and snake skins. I don't do tube in casting so I prefer to not stink up my whole shop for days at a time.

If turning ease is what you want get alumilite, I use PR but I dont mind turning it, and it is far cheaper than Alumilite, and from what I understand, alumilite is harder to mix, and is thicker as well.
Because it is so much thicker I think you are more prone to bubbles if you dont cast under pressure. With PR thinned by warm water you can cast bubble free with no pressure whatsoever.
a gallon of silmar 41 ships to my door for less than $50......:rolleyes:

(PS: i looooove turning alumilite)
 
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MesquiteMan

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Neil,

As you know, Alumilite Water Clear or Clear are NOT softer than PR. They do feel "softer" as you turn them since they are less brittle but the actual technical data shows that PR has a shore D hardness of 78-80 while Alumilite Clear and Water Clear both have a shore D hardness of 80. The higher the number, the harder the material.

If you are looking to make softer easier to turn blanks, I would go with the Alumilite, but you do need to use a pressure pot.
The Alumilte is only thicker when it is cool, if it is above 70 degrees, it is fine.
I use both in my shop, depends on the application.
 

Bellsy

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Thanks for clearing up the air Curtis. So many people are so unclear on the differences between Alumilite and PR.

Depending on the application each is suitable for only so many things.

What I was hoping to see was more info on Silmar 41....even though it is not available in Canada.

Dave
 

biednick

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I don't understand "flexible and non-flexible" things. Snake skins and labels are flexible but alumilite is not the best choice for making snake skin blanks or label blanks. Do you consider snake skins and labels, once glued to the brass tube, to now be non-flexible? I'm just wondering?
Do a good turn daily!
Don

PR is a little easier to cast IMO BUT both resins are good for different things. For solid blanks, either works. For embedding tubes, PR works better. For embedding flexible things, or wood, alumilite is better. For embedding non-flexible things, PR works better. It really depends what you're doing. I usually use PR for solid blanks, but I use both.
The difference is that since alumilite is flexible, it can flex and pull away from the tube. Since PR is much less flexible, it doesn't bend and peel away from the tube the way alumilite does. I cast with both, and both are good products, but for different things. I love turning alumilite, but still use PR for most things.
EDIT IN: For the most part, PR is better for embedding things that do not flex like chunks of cracked PR(as well as tube- in casts). Alumilite works well for things like worthless wood because it bonds to the wood better and as the wood flexes so does the resin(at least this is my understanding, I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong)
 
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RDH79

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Thanks for the info. I was planning on trying snakeskin since I am having a hard time finding Jr Gents. Maybe even try some feathers. So I guess I will try the Silmar 41 again.
Maybe I was usin too much activator and thats why they were really brittle. I was only trying pigments before also.
Thanks
Rich H.
 

ZanderPommo

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Yes thank you Curtis, I was misinformed, I thought at one point in a video I had seen the caster had to use something to scrape the (what I remember as "goopy") alumilite out of the bottle.

As for alumilite being "much" more expensive, yes I do consider the difference between $35 and $80 to be quite a bit. Perhaps this is because I live on a more limited income than some (I'm a high school student)
Also you may mean that alumilite is $80 shipped? But either way I would be unable to afford casting if I bought alumilite.

Something else I may have been unclear on...I was convinced that because alumilite is thicker (or so I had thought) it required pressure to cast; does it require pressure if you're doing say a multi color, solid alumilite cast?

Also a great point about lack of smell, as I could see that being a deal maker/breaker for some. Does it also give off less toxic fumes? I would love to try casting some but as of yet couldnt justify buying even a small amount when instead I could get a gallon of PR, but I think I'll have to now...:)
 

ohiococonut

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Quote: Alumilite is better for Worthless Wood while PR is better for labels and snake skins.

Has anyone tried PR with worthless wood and what were the results?
 

wolftat

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Neil,

As you know, Alumilite Water Clear or Clear are NOT softer than PR. They do feel "softer" as you turn them since they are less brittle but the actual technical data shows that PR has a shore D hardness of 78-80 while Alumilite Clear and Water Clear both have a shore D hardness of 80. The higher the number, the harder the material.

If you are looking to make softer easier to turn blanks, I would go with the Alumilite, but you do need to use a pressure pot.
The Alumilte is only thicker when it is cool, if it is above 70 degrees, it is fine.
I use both in my shop, depends on the application.
Yep, used the wrong word. I should have said less brittle and less likely to chip.
 

biednick

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Quote: Alumilite is better for Worthless Wood while PR is better for labels and snake skins.

Has anyone tried PR with worthless wood and what were the results?
I tried once just to see if it would work. I gave the pen to one of my friends, and he said that he can see a thin line where the PR is separating. I don't have a pressure pot, so that could(and probably did) effect it. It would be interesting to see someone with access to a pressure pot try using PR and see if that's the issue, or if PR just doesn't work. I have not tried with alumilite.
 

its_virgil

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The problem with polyresin and worthless wood is that polyresin shrinks when curing so it has a tendency to pull away from the pieces of wood. I don't think alumilite shrinks which helps it work better for that application.
Curtis will set me straight if I am incorrect about this.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Quote: Alumilite is better for Worthless Wood while PR is better for labels and snake skins.

Has anyone tried PR with worthless wood and what were the results?
I tried once just to see if it would work. I gave the pen to one of my friends, and he said that he can see a thin line where the PR is separating. I don't have a pressure pot, so that could(and probably did) effect it. It would be interesting to see someone with access to a pressure pot try using PR and see if that's the issue, or if PR just doesn't work. I have not tried with alumilite.
 

Jim Burr

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I didn't read all the replies, but they are totally different animals. 41 and stuff like Michaels are a bit similar..Alumilite is a fruit...41 and PR are Animals and need to be treated differently. PR isn't easy...don't get me wrong, they all take practice and a learning curve...but they are different.
 
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PTownSubbie

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Quote: Alumilite is better for Worthless Wood while PR is better for labels and snake skins.

Has anyone tried PR with worthless wood and what were the results?

I have done WW with PR. The problem is even with a Pressure Pot, which I used, when drilling and turning the cast seperated from the wood and had to be glued back on. After this happened several times, I stopped using PR and started using Alumilite for all WW castings with pressure.
 

ohiococonut

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Quote: Alumilite is better for Worthless Wood while PR is better for labels and snake skins.

Has anyone tried PR with worthless wood and what were the results?

I have done WW with PR. The problem is even with a Pressure Pot, which I used, when drilling and turning the cast seperated from the wood and had to be glued back on. After this happened several times, I stopped using PR and started using Alumilite for all WW castings with pressure.

Thank you. That's what I wanted to know. Now I won't waste my time using PR.
 

eldee

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Like Rich, I'm about to try casting again after a few years off. Can someone give me a "realistic" shelf life for Alumilite? My PR is new, but the Alumilite has been sitting unopened for more than two years. It has mostly been indoors, but may have had several weeks in storage under hot summer conditions.
 

Phunky_2003

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Like Rich, I'm about to try casting again after a few years off. Can someone give me a "realistic" shelf life for Alumilite? My PR is new, but the Alumilite has been sitting unopened for more than two years. It has mostly been indoors, but may have had several weeks in storage under hot summer conditions.

I can't speak of the shelf life of alumilte, I am sure Curtis or one of the others who uses it more often than me will answer.

I will say I recently did some casting with alumilite that was over a year old and it worked just fine. One way to find out if it's still good is to use it and see.
 

JasonJ

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I am also going to start my own casting and have only invested in PR for the time being as I want to cast clear resin for embedding items on tubes. Before I start should I be concerned about the shop conditions? Would heat or humidity affect the cast? I live in Iowa so the humidity is almost suffocating right now. I would be casting in the attached insulated garage and if I left it closed up it gets to about 85 degrees in there. Any advice is appreciated.
From what I've read about the curing of PR there's no way I'm going to be doing any casting in the house!
 

Phunky_2003

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Heat and humidity will have some effects on casting. It is something you get accustomed to when your casting. I don't even consider the heat and humidity now(it's always hot and humid here). In the winter it takes longer to cure but when I'm casting I'm not really in a rush anyway. Added in... I do not cast when raining or the day after, never had a problem with it but heard about them so I don't cast then. Fwiw.

I would recommend if your imbedding objects in pr to get a pressure pot.
 
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PTownSubbie

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Like Rich, I'm about to try casting again after a few years off. Can someone give me a "realistic" shelf life for Alumilite? My PR is new, but the Alumilite has been sitting unopened for more than two years. It has mostly been indoors, but may have had several weeks in storage under hot summer conditions.

If it is unopened, I think your chances of being good still are pretty high. The biggest problem is if it gets cold the "B" part (If I recall correctly) gets very very thick.

Won't hurt to do a small clear cast just to check it out! If it is bad, throw it out. If not, use it.
 

MesquiteMan

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I have used Alumilite that was sealed for 2 years with no problem. As for it getting cold...that is only a problem with Alumilite Clear (formerly known as Crystal Clear) and affects the B side.
 
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