Resolute stabilization testing

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

eastbay

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
41
Location
johnson city, TN, USA.
My resolute finally arrived. No MSDS sheet as they claimed there would be. Here is my method of stabilization for the testing and usually the wat I always do it. I use a HVAC vaccum pump (Robinair) This is going to be in a paint pot that I have configured a little diffrent. 1st I put the pen blanks in the tank and I apply some liquid silicone to the gasket to sell 100%. I pull a vaccum on the tank with just the wood in it till it reaches 500cfm. On the other side of the tank I have a ball valve attached and a refrigeration hose along with it. In side the tank I have marked how much fluid it takes to reach that point. In this case 1 qt. So I get a quart of the resolute and put the hose in the jar attached to the ball valve. With that much of a vaccum in the jug I release the ball valve and the vaccum pulls in the liquid stabilizer which directly soaks in the wood. I still maintain the 500 cfm vaccum for 5 to 6 hrs and there done. I have stabilized 2 in sq amboyna this way with diffrent chemicals and with in 6 hrs it had penetrated all thru. I knew by cutting it in half. I am in the AC fixing buisness & well anyway the vaccum pump I use has an exhause to pull the moisture from the tank and the wood. The air line vaccum pumps dont have that capibility. I will write more when the wood is dry and I have dome some testing. Josh
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

skiprat

Passed Away Mar 22, 2022
In Memoriam
Joined
Oct 19, 2006
Messages
7,812
Location
In a Skip in Wales
That sounds very interesting Josh. I've been trying to dream up a way of doing something similar with resin. I don't know what 'Resolute' is but how do you clean it from the hose and ball valve?
Second question is, I can't understand what draws the 'resolute' into the wood, as you have already drawn the vac on it? Could you not just leave the wood floating in it to begin with?
Is the ball valve on the tank end of the hose or on the 'resolute' end. If it's on the tank end, then are you not just allowing the air in the hose to part fill the tank and wood, then just re-vacuuming which then draws the liquid into the wood? As it appears to work for you, I would love to hear how you do it, so I can adapt the method[:D]
 

eastbay

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
41
Location
johnson city, TN, USA.
They said that a 5/8 in round dowell would fully cure in 24 hrs. In Flordia anyway. They also said you can just dip it and it would penetrate a 5/8 in dowell in 60 seconds. I dont know about that. I think that is just 1 of there selling points. The gentleman above wanted some pics of my stabilization set up but my software is messed up. But I can tell a little more about it. The paint tank had 4 threaded holes in the top so I plugged 2 of them off. I have the vaccum pump in the center of the top plate and to the side I have the shut off valve then the ball valve and hose connected to the ballvalve. The reason I pull a vaccum on the wood first is to remove and MC content in the left in the wood. I pull a vaccum till 500 cfm or so. The 500 cfm is the minimum vaccum that is good for a HVAC system before freon is added so it is a deep vaccum. With the hose inserted in the stabilizer turn the ball valve and it will suck the stabilizer in the pot like no tomorrow. Then shut the ball valve off then I turn the shut off valve off and remove the hose and ball valve and clean it so nothing sets up in there. I guess the air in the hose would be the only moisture getting in there. I tried to describe better for a mental picture. The local wood craft here had a clear demo tank they used for a demo. But they used it for dying large wood blocks but as soon as the alchol and dye were entered they went rite in the wood so of course I asked of stabilization this way. The demonstrator said he does it the same way. I hope this helps. I will list my testing results this weekend. Josh
 
Joined
Mar 24, 2004
Messages
19
Location
Flint, Texas, USA.
Originally posted by eastbay
<br />I pull a vaccum till 500 cfm or so. The 500 cfm is the minimum vaccum that is good for a HVAC system before freon is added so it is a deep vaccum.

Josh,

I'm not gettin' it. CFM is "cubic feet per minute", and is a measurement of the rate of air flow. Vacuum, at least in the HVAC field I'm used to, is usually measured in in/Hg, "inches of mercury", or bar, or PSI.
What gauge are you using to measure CFM?

Lynn
 

eastbay

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
41
Location
johnson city, TN, USA.
I meant to say micron meter. I feel like a dope but we all have our moments. When the vaccum reaches 500 microns is when I introduce the stabilizer. Sorry for the wrong info and thanks for catching it. I just had a brain fart. Cheers Josh
 

eastbay

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
41
Location
johnson city, TN, USA.
Resolute does add some density. Buckeye burl you can usually push deep dents with your finger nail. I pushed hard and no indention so I got my knife (sharp) almost impossible to wittle but can press very hard and make an indention. I am up for other ideas on testing the density. Just let me know. I would like to have a volunteer here that I could send a blank to and let him post some replies. So just contact me.
 

Rudy Vey

Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
2,032
Location
South Plainfield, NJ, USA.
Originally posted by eastbay
<br />I meant to say micron meter. I feel like a dope but we all have our moments. When the vaccum reaches 500 microns is when I introduce the stabilizer. Sorry for the wrong info and thanks for catching it. I just had a brain fart. Cheers Josh

I still don't understand what you mean with micron meter. Can you please explain what you really mean. I my job vacuums are normally measured as "mm Hg" .
 

eastbay

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
41
Location
johnson city, TN, USA.
it has dried to 1.0 oz now. I completed a test on the blank. I put a light bulb in a box and positioned it so it would stay around 115 degrees./ I left it in the box for 24 hrs with no change, warping, I also put a pc 1/4 inch thick x 3 x 5 in there with it and no warping of it either no change at all. Oh the wood is still the buckeye burl. It has more density to it. Does anyone have any more testing ideas before I turn the pc. I would also have pics posted but my computer has bugs. I cant even email pics.

Since the product came with no MSDS like they said it would I called the company and asked about he said it contained Aromatic Naphata, Mineral spirits and other resins. Thats all he said and I asked him to fax me one and gave him the # nothing yet.
 

mrplace

Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
368
Location
The Colony, Texas, USA.
Josh,

What is the actual trade name and part number for your chemical. I can download it from the MSDS service we use at work and post if you would like.

What quantities did you have to purchase in?
 

mrplace

Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
368
Location
The Colony, Texas, USA.
Originally posted by Fred_erick
<br />In the first part of this thread he states he is using Resolute. [:D]

I knew that much, but there is typically more to it (i.e. Resinol 90C, Permabond 9090, Paraloid B-87).

What does the label say? Does it have a hazard sticker that shows the health, flammability, reactivity, personal protection?

I did a search for this, and the Cue Company was the only site I could find this product.

All chemical manufacturers are require to have MSDS's, even if it is a "home brew". If it is being sold commercially, it has to have an MSDS.

http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=standards&p_id=10099
 

eastbay

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
41
Location
johnson city, TN, USA.
Ok well I turned the first pc it was buckeye burl. I made a simple slim line pen with no problems at all. Not quite as hard as an acrylic stabilizer but I like it. It produced a nice shine as I sanded up to 600 and applies a simple coat of beeswax and buffed in. I let it sit another hour rebuffed and applied 1 more coat of beeswax. I an very happy with this stabilizer it penetrates all the way thru with ease on all the burls and hardwoods I tried. I will continue to use. By no means does it compare to commercial stabilization but its easy to work with and provides good results. Josh
 

eastbay

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2007
Messages
41
Location
johnson city, TN, USA.
Well I guess the true test is what the customer thinks. I send a friend of mine in Texas a pair of curly redheart knife scales that was stabilized with resolute. I did not mention that any thing was diffrent just thinking he may say something and he did. All the scales I sell there sanded to 100 grit and he noticed rite away something was diffrent. All he has said is good things about this process and has returned and got a stabilized block and 2 pairs of scales. All the other products that I have sold stabilized with resolute have had nothing but praise. I have emailed all the customers for feedback on the process and have had nothing but great comments. I think also it is a good chemical mix and I am happy with the results that I have had my self. I will continue to use it. I use it on knife scales & pen blanks and some blocks on request. It penetrates fully fairly quick and dries pretty quick. For the price and the results I give it an A+++++++.
 

DCBluesman

Passed Away Mar 3, 2016
In Memoriam
Joined
Aug 22, 2004
Messages
7,679
Location
WOODBRIDGE, VIRGINIA
Originally posted by mrplace
All chemical manufacturers are require to have MSDS's, even if it is a "home brew". If it is being sold commercially, it has to have an MSDS.

http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=standards&p_id=10099
That's not quite accurate. According to http://w3.ouhsc.edu/ehso/local/Msds1.htm
Material safety data sheets (MSDS) are required by law to be provided by manufacturers or vendors of products containing hazardous materials.
(Emphasis added.)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom