Pressurizing method

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Dale Allen

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Question about pressurizing method.
Do you bring the pressure up slowly and reslease it slowly or can you just push on the coupling while the hose has 50 PSI, like I do with my nail guns.
Just wondering if it would have an effect on the casting.
 
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ElMostro

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make sure you have a baffle bec if the incoming air hits the resin at high speed you will have resin all over the tank. So guess I am saying fill slow/moderate. if you empty fast you get a very loud hiss noise (bothers me a lot) so emptying fast really offers no benefit.
 

Jim Burr

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Assuming you are talking about a pressure pot, JMHO, but I bring it up slowly so any leaks in the seal can be addressed under non-violent pressures.
 

Kenny Durrant

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I have a baffle in mine and I still bring the pressure up slowly. No need in going too fast just in case of a problem and I don't want to stir things up if I don't have to.
 

HamTurns

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I bring my pressure up slowly even though I have a baffle inside my tank.

I let the pressure off quickly, I don't think it matters how fast you let it off, except for the noise.


Happy turning
Tom
 

BSea

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I don't usually worry about bringing the pressure up slowly. So far, so good. I just double check my locking clamps before adding the pressure. I did forget to cover my mold once. It did make a mess, but my blanks were just a little shorter than normal and were fine.

This was a vertical mold, not horizontal. I can see where a horizontal cast would be ruined.
 

Dale Allen

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Thanks all. I use a chamber and the end of the mold is sometimes right inside the fitting. The last 2 times I made one I used the regulator valve on the compressor to go up and down slower. It didn't help my issue with the blanks, but I had to try to see if it would. Since I use a 1.5" x 9" chamber there is very little area to pressure up.
 

Marko50

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Oct 22, 2013
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I just lock and load when casting colors. I have a Binks pot that I installed an ASME certified ball valve to control how fast it can pressurize when clear casting I use it to ensure there is no blow-back of dust, or whatever, into the clear resin. Never had a problem with resin blowing out. I put an "L" valve on the inside of the lid at the inlet/outlet port to direct the air over to the wall of the pot. I also made use of Curtis's tutorial/plans on building a rack for my molds. It allows you to go vertical in the pot and stack your molds. You can find it on his web site here: http://www.turntex.com/images/stories/Curtis/PPRackPlan.pdf

If you keep a close tab on ebay you can find an American made pot (ASME certified for a pretty good price. I found my Binks pot for about $60.00. Beats the heck out of the $500-600 Benjamin's they want for them new.
 
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