Pressure Pot Protocol

[jbg230]

I'm brand new at casting. I've read and watched as much as I could about it over the last several weeks.
I got a great deal on a used, but excellent condition Binks pot (80 psi max). Mackenziedrums, Zac Higgins and Curtis Seeback were great in helping me make a decision about the purchase.
Turns out, after all the set up and using Loctite 545 to install the fittings, I became paranoid during the first fill to 60 psi. The bad stories on this site and the web had me a little intimidated sticking my ear next to all the connections listening for air. I kept thinking that this would be a great story as to how I got a real plate (lid) in my head.
It's all good though. No air leaks as of now. I'll adjust the safety valve to 80 psi to keep me comfortable, but I want to make sure I'm doing this right...

I connect the air hose (male end) to the pot (female end) with the ball valve closed. Does it matter if the air hose has the male end or the female end?

I'm filling the compressor tank to 100 psi. I slowly open the ball valve on the pot until the gauge on the pot reads 60psi. Close the ball valve. Release the pressure in the compressor tank. Does it matter if I connect the air hose with an empty compressor then turn on the compressor and close the ball valve when the pot is at 60 psi (or less if appropriate)?

Then to off gas, I open the ball valve and the pressure is released through the open valve on the compressor. Does it matter that I'm not using a regulator?

It seems like I should have a "T" fitting with another ball valve on the pot to be able to release the pressure at the pot. Does it matter that I'm releasing the pressure through the compressor tank?

I guess with a regulator, I could put a ball valve at the compressor, and stand away from the pot when filling, but I'm in such close quarters, I'm not sure if it matters and I from what I see out there, it seems a little too paranoid/overkill.

Please set me straight on the pressure filling and releasing.
Thanks. -Jake

 

[thewishman]

A couple of answers:

To fill the tank, I open the valve slowly, so the incoming air won't splash my resin around.

To be extra safe, I set the compressor to the same level as I want the air in the tank to be, usually around 60 psi. I leave the tank hooked up to the compressor the whole time. If there is a small leak, it won't ruin the whole pour. If the compressor runs too much, I can hear it and shut it down.

I turn off the valve, remove the air line, take the pot outside yo release the tank air - PR is stinky.

 

[MrResinBlanks]

Different pot and already set up for resin casting. Very popular here in UK with most who do casting using them.
Circled in black is air release valve that finger tightens. That said I have make connection at red on the T and normally remove hose once to pressure. I then tend to use the valve handle to release pressure through the male fitting.
I guess instead if capping off green I could have fitted an air silencer and done that way.

As for amount of pressure I have the regulator blue set to 55psi on both my pots.

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[McKenzie Penworks]

Glad to help! Sounds like a case of over analysis. Not the worst thing in the world to have...

As was already stated, I leave my compressor regulator at the pressure I want my pot at rather than run the line wide open and rely solely on the pots safety system. You likely don't need 80psi btw. For my alumilite blanks I run right at 50 with no voids at all. You might want to crank it up when doing wood hybrids, but mostly because you can.

I don't really put a ton of thought into releasing the pressure. Typically I close the valve on the pot, remove quick connect air hose, open valve on pot and not so patiently wait to see the good stuff inside.

 

[eharri446]

I have been using air compressors of and on for the last 50+ years, and the one thing that I have always seen is to have the male connector plug into the compressor and everything else plug into the female connector on the other end of the hose. That way you can change tools easily when you need to. Also, if you buy tools which come with the air compressor fittings they always come with the male fitting in the tool.

 

[chartle]

I have been using air compressors of and on for the last 50+ years, and the one thing that I have always seen is to have the male connector plug into the compressor and everything else plug into the female connector on the other end of the hose. That way you can change tools easily when you need to. Also, if you buy tools which come with the air compressor fittings they always come with the male fitting in the tool.

Yes I was also going to make that point that the standard is the male on the tool, in this case the pot, the female on the hose. The issue you have your way is that for quick changes there is a sort of a check valve in the female end and the only way to drain your pot is to have a hose connected to it.

But my pot, besides using the male fitting on the pot, is hooked up exactly as yours. I set my compressor to max and then watch as I fill up the pot to a tad under 60 psi since that is my max on my Harbor Freight pot and its when my excess pressure valve would pop.

If your pot is like mine there should be an air diffuser under the lid to keep the air from shooting into your resin but I do fill somewhat slowly.

There is no need for a regulator since once filled up you disconnect the hose and leave it. In its intended use the air runs through the pot continuously and the regulator keeps a nice steady air flow as the compressor turns on and off and as other tools may use air.

 

[chartle]

I turn off the valve, remove the air line, take the pot outside yo release the tank air - PR is stinky.

You use pressure for PR? Haven't seen a reason to do this unless its your way to contain the stinkyness. :hypnotized:

 

[EBorraga]

I turn off the valve, remove the air line, take the pot outside yo release the tank air - PR is stinky.

You use pressure for PR? Haven't seen a reason to do this unless its your way to contain the stinkyness. :hypnotized:

try making watch blanks or label blanks without pressure using PR. You have lots of air bubbles without pressure

 

[jbg230]

Yeah, I did over think it a bit! I knew I did. Then again, I knew you guys would understand. I never did like standing next to a scuba tank getting filled up to 3000 psi. But with these responses, I've learned some things and feel more confident about the process now. Thanks for the help!

 

[TattooedTurner]

A couple of answers:

To fill the tank, I open the valve slowly, so the incoming air won't splash my resin around.

To be extra safe, I set the compressor to the same level as I want the air in the tank to be, usually around 60 psi. I leave the tank hooked up to the compressor the whole time. If there is a small leak, it won't ruin the whole pour. If the compressor runs too much, I can hear it and shut it down.

I turn off the valve, remove the air line, take the pot outside yo release the tank air - PR is stinky.

My method is almost exactly the same. I think it's very important to set the max outgoing pressure from the compressor to no higher than 75-80% of what the pressure pot is rated for. As long as you clamp the lid down tight, you should never have any safety issues.