Not sure how you guys cast labels...

[RSidetrack]

...but I just can't have any success. The first label cast I did resulted in bubbles around seams and heavy fading of the actual decal. I did some research on this forum and found that some put a layer of CA and let it dry for a day prior to casting. So I tried it and it ripped the ink right off - and this is laser not inkjet, so not sure how you can get CA on some of these labels without destroying them.

On the bright side I didn't waste any resin this time.

 

[commercialbuilder]

I have had some luck spraying Krylon clear acrylic over decals etc., and injet enk did not run.

 

[NewLondon88]

there's all sorts of combinations of labels and inks, and not all the
combinations work the same. I'd suggest that before you cast,
test a scrap of your label and ink with the resin, the coating etc.
not on a tube.
Some people have better luck coating the label with something
like Modge Podge, some coat with CA, some with acrylic spray
or a workable fixative.

But most important it to let that dry a good 24 hours (or more)
before casting. Many of the materials take that long to fully
cure (not just dry to the touch) and can react with the resins.

 

[RSidetrack]

there's all sorts of combinations of labels and inks, and not all the
combinations work the same. I'd suggest that before you cast,
test a scrap of your label and ink with the resin, the coating etc.
not on a tube.
Some people have better luck coating the label with something
like Modge Podge, some coat with CA, some with acrylic spray
or a workable fixative.

But most important it to let that dry a good 24 hours (or more)
before casting. Many of the materials take that long to fully
cure (not just dry to the touch) and can react with the resins.

For some reason the toner just gets smeared badly, or eaten off, even lifted off if casting straight up.

I might have to try my inkjet and see if I have any better luck - problem is the ink ran out 6 months ago

 

[Wood Butcher]

Yup, you gotta seal that decal with a spray coat. I use the stuff sold for that purpose, smells like lacquer, and a couple light coats are best. This prevents the ink from running when in the water. When you apply that first coat of thin CA use the corner of a blue paper towel and apply the CA to the top of the turning blank/decal and hold the towel on the bottom lightly but strong enough to spread it out completely. Don't use accelerator on that first coat. Works fo me but your results may vary.
WB

 

[Craftdiggity]

Why not turn the barrels and put the label on after. Then you just finish with a heavy dose of CA and call it a day. That will save you the time it will take to figure out the casting issues.

 

[BSea]

What brand laser printer are you using? I'm wanting to get one soon, and part of it will be to do decals & labels.

 

[Focushere]

Mod Podge

Try putting a few coats of Mod Podge on it Let it dry 30 minutes between coats. Then set it aside for a day. The following day you can seal it with CA. I usually do about 8 coats. (medium)Then I set it aside for a day or two to let it set up. I then micro mesh and make sure it's smooth. Nothing for the bubbles to grab onto. Make sure your casting material is warm to hot so the bubbles will rise and be easier to pull out with a toothpick. Pour your casting material across a popcicle stick over the mold. It helps also.

 

[RSidetrack]

What brand laser printer are you using? I'm wanting to get one soon, and part of it will be to do decals & labels.

I am using a Dell - which I believe is basically a lexmark.

 

[RSidetrack]

Okay I have had a 95% success!! I messed up a little part but overall it worked great. I will get pictures up tomorrow.

 

[PenMan1]

I think you will see a marked improvement by changing from a color laser printer to an inkjet printer. The print quality of the label will not be as good as from the laser, but the "workability" of the inkjet label is much easier.

The laser label (HP Color Laser 2860) can dry for one week but will still bleed color when CA or Modge Podge is applied. 24 hours seems to be ample dry time for the various inkjets that I use .

 

[bruce119]

I agree an ink jet. The problem with a laser is that it is powder toner and the CA is probably dissolving the powder.

Now what I use and it works for me. I use a HP Photosmart printer with HP paper and glue the label to the tube with mod podge. That way I get a water proof print. If I use say Avery labels or another paper you just get a regular ink jet print that is not water proof. The quality of the print from the photosmart is very high with the HP paper. Then I put 2 coats of CA on and then cast with PR my failure rate now is almost zero.

The CA seals the paper so you don't get air bubbles and also keeps the paper from wetting and going transparent.

Good luck

I think you will see a marked improvement by changing from a color laser printer to an inkjet printer. The print quality of the label will not be as good as from the laser, but the "workability" of the inkjet label is much easier.

The laser label (HP Color Laser 2860) can dry for one week but will still bleed color when CA or Modge Podge is applied. 24 hours seems to be ample dry time for the various inkjets that I use .

 

[navycop]

A nurse at work wanted a wood pen with a label. How (if possible) can I attach the label and leave the wood exposed (no resin)?

 

[PenMan1]

Mike :
You can just CA finish over the label. Make sure in planning, to "overturn" the blank slightly to leave room for the label thickness and enough CA finish coats so that your fingers not feel the label "bump".

If she prefers a "satin" finish, just CA finish as usual, but use the Stick Fast Satin polish after MM.

 

[PenMan1]

Good (but expensive) tip on the photo paper, Bruce ! I'll be giving that a try, soon!

 

[navycop]

Mike :
You can just CA finish over the label. Make sure in planning, to "overturn" the blank slightly to leave room for the label thickness and enough CA finish coats so that your fingers not feel the label "bump".

If she prefers a "satin" finish, just CA finish as usual, but use the Stick Fast Satin polish after MM.

Thanks I didn't think about the "bump".

 

[RSidetrack]

Sealing with an acrylic sealer and let set for 24 hours prior to CA worked great. Here is the link to the thread with pictures!

http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90707

 

[bruce119]

This is the paper I use HERE $16.00 for a 100 shts and this is the printer I use HERE $69.00 rite now at Staples I got mine for less than $50.00 by taking in an old printer for recycling.

I have an alps and used laser printers also. But this HP photo quality is in my opinion better than either. Each has it's pros & cons the HP will print a photograph with the same quality as a professional print from Wall Mart and I have an eye for quality I am an old school printer for over 40 years. The thing is you have to use HP paper they have a chemical in the paper that bonds with the ink. You can print with any paper but you will just get a regular ink jet print that is not water proof.

Good (but expensive) tip on the photo paper, Bruce ! I'll be giving that a try, soon!

 

[toyotaman]

I use an HP Officejet printer. After printing out your decal let it set and dry for about 30minutes. You will need to go to Hobby Lobby and look in the model car section for some "Testors" Decal bonder. It's like a 3oz. can and around $5.00. After your decal has dried for about 30min. you will spray a light coat of the Testors decal bonder on the decal and let it set and dry for about an hour. Cut it out and place the waterslide decal in water and on to your pen.Be careful and smooth it down and let it dry and cure at least an hour. Add a coat of CA and it will not smear or fade. I put decals on pens all the time with no problems.