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Casting & Stabilization Making your own blanks & stabilizing wood blanks.


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Old 10-12-2017, 12:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default newbie question about stabalization

I have a couple of pieces of wood that I think will need to be stabilised so I am going to give it a try after doing a bit more research on how it is done.
Question is am I better cutting the lumps of wood into blanks before I stabilise it or stabilising the lumps & then cutting into blanks
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Old 10-12-2017, 08:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
 
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If your talking about pen blanks round after stabilizing. If your stabilizing lidded box size pcs then rough turn and rough hollow. This should answer your questions about stabilizing. https://www.turntex.com/help-center/...us-juice-video
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
 
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I would say cutting first. Easier to get any extra moisture out and the stabilizer in.

For things like bowls I've seen them rough turned and then stabilized. Gets the stuff soaked in quicker and you waste less juice.
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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thanks for the replies, sorry I was thinking pen blanks

Was just thinking with the poor condition of the wood it might not cut to well but if I am only rough sawing it I don't suppose it will matter lol, will have a read though the posted link thanks/
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin pearson View Post
thanks for the replies, sorry I was thinking pen blanks

Was just thinking with the poor condition of the wood it might not cut to well but if I am only rough sawing it I don't suppose it will matter lol, will have a read though the posted link thanks/
Well yes if its so fragile that cutting it up would destroy it stabilize first. But if its that fragile getting the juice into the nooks and crannies shouldn't be an issue. You just need a big enough chamber.
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Old 10-19-2017, 06:52 AM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Thanks again for the link, that explained things very simply

Well yes if its so fragile that cutting it up would destroy it stabilize first. But if its that fragile getting the juice into the nooks and crannies shouldn't be an issue. You just need a big enough chamber.

Haha, yer I do some work with carbon fibre so have a degassing chamber that is probably large enough, only problem with that is that I would need a lot of resin so submerge the lumps if not cut first

Does anyone use vacuum bagging rather than a pot with larger pieces of wood?
Obviously I don't have a great deal of knowledge on this subject but can't think why it wouldn't work
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:24 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Vacuum bagging will not work for stabilizing. I stabilize in a 1 gallon glass jar. Whatever fits in the opening and leave 2-3 inches of head space for weights. I currently am stabilizing a couple banksia pods. Weights are necessary to keep the material submerged.
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin pearson View Post
Does anyone use vacuum bagging rather than a pot with larger pieces of wood?
Hold Fast has a system for vacuum bagging bowls and the like but pretty sure if the material is that fragile the bag would probably crush it.

https://youtu.be/WGEQstQKLFs?t=1276

As for the amount of resin needed to submerge it you could put other clean stuff in with it. At the dollar store* they have bags of those glass beads used in flower arraignments Or you could use glass marbles. Clean chain, nuts and bolts, etc. In fact I've used chain to keep stuff from not floating.

*ETA: just noticed where you are from so replace Dollar store with Pound land. ;)

PS Can you post some pics of the "lumps"?
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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You can also put the lumps into other containers and then put those in your chamber, but is your chamber rated for almost 100% vacuum for maybe a day or 2?

Every time I see degassing its put in the chamber vacuum turned on. Stuff bubbles like crazy so vacuum let off and then a few cycles of this until no more bubbles.
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Old 10-20-2017, 08:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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G'day Martin,

I just saw your thread, I didn't know or I can recall, you were an IAP member, cheers...!

I don't think that your chunks of wood could possibly be any softer and or fragile than some pieces of wood I get around here that break apart just by looking at it the wrong way (if you know what I mean), there are ways to keep the fragile stuff together in preparation to stabilising and until the Cactus Juice (is what I use) cooks/cures it, after that you can cut it with little trouble.

Depending on the sizes of the pieces you have and their condition, you may be able to cut them in oversized pen blanks, 1" square or something like that, however, you have to consider the fact that stabilising excess/waste wood is a very expensive exercise so, you may need to consider cutting pieces that will give you double or triple pen blanks, this would put less stress on the fragile wood and make it a little stronger to handle, for example, a blank 65mm square x 130mm long will give you 9 pen blanks at about 20mm x 130mm when stabilised and cut with very little waste, make the blanks/wood block shorter if you don't need 130mm length.

Oven time to remove all moisture from the wood even if old and half rotten is most crucial and one of the questions you need to ask yourself is, is this wood important enough to you or will it produce well worth results compared to the costs of having it stabilised even if you already own a full stabilisation set-up, setting yourself up with the proper gear will only be worth it if you have a constant use for it, these are obviously MY views/opinions

You are most welcome to ask any questions you may have, I will try my very best to help out.

Cheers
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