Multiple layer casting

[JeffW]

I'd like to try casting some bottle stopper blanks where the lower part is opaque and the upper part clear with something embedded. My lack of experience leads to a couple of questions.

1. PR or Alumilite?
2. Adhesion of layers? Do I let the opaque layer cure completely before pouring the clear or am I dealing with a partial cure/open time to get good adhesion?

Any suggestions or tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Akula]

I use the dixi cups with PR. I embed a lot of different items and had no problem. The dark lower is just to hide the hole. I let it dry around an hour before pouring the clear over the rest. Never really bothered with timing it

 

[jttheclockman]

PR for sure. I let the bottom layer get firm then lay the item and make the next pour. you probably could even let go a whole day because the pr remains tacky and it will stick to it well.

 

[TattooedTurner]

I use PR and have done the same thing as John. I've also seen a guy on Youtube cast two separate blanks, true one side of each on the lathe, then glue them together using flexible CA with excellent results. If you do it in a single mold, just make sure it's level or you will have to offset it in your chuck to make up the difference when you true it up. I know from experience that it's a real hassle at best to get it just right, it's far easier to make sure the mold is dead on level. It may even be impossible to fix since you're embedding something in the clear resin. Depending on what the object is, the delineation line or embedded object won't be square. I would do a test run without embedding the object first if you have any doubts as to how precise the blank may turn out.

 

[Curly]

Dave Bell (Bellsy is his screen name) has made them. Send a PM to him and I'm pretty sure he can help you.

 

[JeffW]

Thank you for the replies and guidance. My PR should arrive mid-week and I'll give it a try...especially the test run recommended. I'll also try to contact Dave as suggested.

 

[jttheclockman]

I make mine in pill bottles. You can buy them in all different sizes. The dimple in the bottom makes for an exact center mark for drilling for the stopper. Got that trick from the master himself Ed Davidson AKA YoYo Spin. He use to have a Yahoo site dedicated to only bottlestoppers. No longer has it. Check his web site out and be prepared to be amazed.

 

[robutacion]

I'd like to try casting some bottle stopper blanks where the lower part is opaque and the upper part clear with something embedded. My lack of experience leads to a couple of questions.

1. PR or Alumilite?
2. Adhesion of layers? Do I let the opaque layer cure completely before pouring the clear or am I dealing with a partial cure/open time to get good adhesion?

Any suggestions or tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

G'day Jeff,

I believe you are referring to things like these..?

My advice, use a leveled table to put the mold on, the black/dark resin based looks better is leveled. If you want to see a clean line between the base colour and to top colour, let be base dry before adding a second pour however, if you prefer a smoother joint, wait until the base resin gels and then pour the second pour on top.

As for resin, if you want a crystal clear top portion of the cast, you need to use Polyester or Allumilite, Epoxy as I know it, is not as crystal clear.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
George

 

[CREID]

I make mine in pill bottles. You can buy them in all different sizes. The dimple in the bottom makes for an exact center mark for drilling for the stopper. Got that trick from the master himself Ed Davidson AKA YoYo Spin. He use to have a Yahoo site dedicated to only bottlestoppers. No longer has it. Check his web site out and be prepared to be amazed.

That's a cool idea about the dimple in the pill bottle. I empty quite a few of those every month. :frown:
And Yoyo has a youtube site he has been posting tops on. I posted one on another thread.

 

[TattooedTurner]

I make mine in pill bottles. You can buy them in all different sizes. The dimple in the bottom makes for an exact center mark for drilling for the stopper. Got that trick from the master himself Ed Davidson AKA YoYo Spin. He use to have a Yahoo site dedicated to only bottlestoppers. No longer has it. Check his web site out and be prepared to be amazed.

Excellent idea, especially since I have unlimited access to them. Looks like I won't need to buy any more pvc. Another bonus is you can see through them so you can tell when the mix is right, much better than having to guess with pvc molds. And you don't have to seal the bottom or worry about an unsquare cut leading to a lopsided mold. Thanks for the tip!

Do you use a mold release agent or just rely on the shrinkage of PR for the blank to pop out?

 

[jttheclockman]

I make mine in pill bottles. You can buy them in all different sizes. The dimple in the bottom makes for an exact center mark for drilling for the stopper. Got that trick from the master himself Ed Davidson AKA YoYo Spin. He use to have a Yahoo site dedicated to only bottlestoppers. No longer has it. Check his web site out and be prepared to be amazed.

Excellent idea, especially since I have unlimited access to them. Looks like I won't need to buy any more pvc. Another bonus is you can see through them so you can tell when the mix is right, much better than having to guess with pvc molds. And you don't have to seal the bottom or worry about an unsquare cut leading to a lopsided mold. Thanks for the tip!

Do you use a mold release agent or just rely on the shrinkage of PR for the blank to pop out?

No. Pop right out because PR does shrink just a bit.

 

[JeffW]

My advice, use a leveled table to put the mold on, the black/dark resin based looks better is leveled. If you want to see a clean line between the base colour and to top colour, let be base dry before adding a second pour however, if you prefer a smoother joint, wait until the base resin gels and then pour the second pour on top.

Good advice. I hope to try it later this week. Thanks to all for their suggestions.

 

[JeffW]

First bottle stopper casting

My first bottle stopper casting with embedded item. Thanks to all for the advice. I'm happy with the way it turned out and looking forward to casting more.

 

[Jim15]

Looks great.

 

[liljohn1368]

Very nice!!!

 

[jttheclockman]

My first bottle stopper casting with embedded item. Thanks to all for the advice. I'm happy with the way it turned out and looking forward to casting more.

That came out real well. It is another one of those turning projects that has a lot of potential for great ideas. Good luck.

 

[JeffW]

Thanks

Thanks for the comments and the initial guidance and recommendations.

 

[TattooedTurner]

That came out great! Did you degas or use a pressure pot? Zac Higgins on Youtube says you don't need either for PR, but I find there's more of a chance of air bubbles when I don't degas. There's a 25% off sale at HF so I think I'll get a pressure pot since my vacuum pump died. Anyhow, nice job, I've got to try that.

 

[JeffW]

Ultrasonic - no pressure or vacuum

That came out great! Did you degas or use a pressure pot?

I used a Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner with heater pretty much as described by Don Ward a.k.a. "It's Virgil" in his library article Casting Bubble Free. This bottle stopper made me a real believer in the process.