Liquid Diamonds Hickory Nut Shells - Page 2 - International Association of Penturners
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Casting & Stabilization Making your own blanks & stabilizing wood blanks.


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Old 10-07-2017, 08:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by Gregory Hardy View Post
Did you have to use a finish to seal them?
I finished them with CA.

I experimented a bit with Pens Plus a month ago, and really liked the "sand with Walnut Oil" part of the process that a lot of people use. So lately, I've been doing that with my CA pens - wet "Walnut Oil" sand with 400, 600, and then 1000 grit. Then clean with Alcohol, before going through my "normal" CA application/sanding. I use Satellite City CA, which I find to have a nice couple of seconds of working time before it sets.

I normally end my CA process on the lathe with Novus 2, then Novus 1 and then some Microcrystaline Wax. On these, though I skipped that and buffed on a White Diamond wheel and then a wax wheel. I didn't feel like it was any better than my end process on the lathe, so I'll probably go back to the Novus polish to end as it's easier.
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Old 10-07-2017, 09:46 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Very nice work! Did you wait any before pouring the two colors? I was wondering if you poured two colors too soon the colors would mix together to make one. All three look great but I like the 2nd and 3rd pens the best.
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Old 10-07-2017, 01:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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They all look great. I like the 3rd one the best of the 3. Good work.
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Old 10-07-2017, 02:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Wonderful!!
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Old 10-07-2017, 03:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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My granddaughter' favorite color is "All of dem." That's how I feel about your pens, they are all pretty.
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Old 10-07-2017, 05:01 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Did you wait any before pouring the two colors?
No, I mixed up the ounce and half, stirred it well, then divided it up between my three mica cups, and then stirred again to blend the mica. I started pouring into the tube right away. I did a little bit of two colors at a time, then rotated which two I was pouring until I had them all in. Then I angled and rotated the tube around a bit to give any air trapped under the shells a chance to escape.

The "air under" was more an issue for those husks - I think I rotated those around a couple of minutes because I could see air in the tube in this one spot towards the bottom.

I think on all three, I might have had one "pin hole" each that I had to fill with CA when I got them turned close to profile.

I read where somebody felt they needed to wait a bit (45 minutes?) with Liquid Diamonds because the mica would settle if you cast it to soon after mixing. That makes sense to me, however, I've never waited and never seen the mica settle at all.
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Old 10-08-2017, 07:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Nice idea, I wonder if it would work with other nut shells?
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:10 AM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Did you use a pressure pot?
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Old 10-08-2017, 09:19 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
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Thanks I think I'll give it a try. I wasn't worried about the pigment as I was about the colors mixing themselves because of how thin they are.
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Old 10-08-2017, 10:34 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny Durrant View Post
Did you wait any before pouring the two colors?
No, I mixed up the ounce and half, stirred it well, then divided it up between my three mica cups, and then stirred again to blend the mica. I started pouring into the tube right away. I did a little bit of two colors at a time, then rotated which two I was pouring until I had them all in. Then I angled and rotated the tube around a bit to give any air trapped under the shells a chance to escape.

The "air under" was more an issue for those husks - I think I rotated those around a couple of minutes because I could see air in the tube in this one spot towards the bottom.

I think on all three, I might have had one "pin hole" each that I had to fill with CA when I got them turned close to profile.

I read where somebody felt they needed to wait a bit (45 minutes?) with Liquid Diamonds because the mica would settle if you cast it to soon after mixing. That makes sense to me, however, I've never waited and never seen the mica settle at all.
Just a suggestion...
First stir the pigment into the epoxy (usually part A) and let it set for a few minutes. This will allow the bubbles dissipate.
Then mix in the catalyst (usually part B) and stir carefully to mix well.
Using this method helps to eliminate the bubble occurrence, since the first step allows most of the bubbles to dissipate and gives extended time for any introduced air to escape after mixing the catalyst, instead of all of the air attempting to escape after the catalyst is introduced.
I'm aware of the pot life of this epoxy as compared to others, but once the catalyst is introduced, it begins the chemical reaction to cure. Eliminating the air with the first step, lessens the chances of air being trapped.

This was a habit we determined to be effective with all of our casts, using any of the resins. Of course our casts were much larger than those used for pens.
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