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Casting & Stabilization Making your own blanks & stabilizing wood blanks.


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Old 09-17-2017, 09:41 PM   #21 (permalink)
 
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I have not heard anything negative about it , its my next
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:03 AM   #22 (permalink)
 
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can you color the resin (i.e. blue, white etc.)? If so what would you use to dye the resin? Thanks William
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Old 09-18-2017, 11:45 AM   #23 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triw51 View Post
can you color the resin (i.e. blue, white etc.)? If so what would you use to dye the resin? Thanks William
I've used both dye and mica with great results. Because of the long pot life, I'd recommend holding off pouring your mica casts as soon as you mix in the hardener because mica tends to settle. Give it about 30 minutes then stir the contents again before pouring.

Just my $.02.

Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:06 AM   #24 (permalink)
 
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I did some research last night and found the Technical Data Sheet on the TurnersWarehouse web site.

It stated that Liquid Diamond will enter the gel state in about 45 minutes if you are working in a room that is 77 degrees Fahrenheit.

As far as tinting goes, I am using my alumilite dyes with no issues. I know of people who are using Transtint dyes, and some who are using Mixol dyes.

I have not tried Mixol dyes with Liquid Diamond yet, however, I have used them to tint 5 minute epoxy with good results.

One thing I will say for sure, is if you remove the cast pieces from you molds to soon they can stick to whatever you lay them on and they can deform under their own weight.
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:32 AM   #25 (permalink)
 
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Does LD get as hard as acrylic? Hard enough that you can not dent it with a fingernail?
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:15 AM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Does LD get as hard as acrylic? Hard enough that you can not dent it with a fingernail?
After about 72 hours it is very hard, at least comparable to acrylic and you can not dent it with your finger nail. Within that first 24 hours however it is very soft and as mentioned it can deform under it's own weight. I have had that happen to me once, being to impatient.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:21 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
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Thanks! I just need to wait longer then. I completed my first two sets of castings over the last two days. Just 24 hrs since the last one.
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:39 AM   #28 (permalink)
 
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Thanks! I just need to wait longer then. I completed my first two sets of castings over the last two days. Just 24 hrs since the last one.
I now wait 3 days before turning.
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:27 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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The technical data sheet said that it could take as long as 7 days to reach maximum hardness if left in a room at about 50 degrees Fahrenheit, or maybe it was 77 degrees. It is terrible what happens to your mind as you get older.

I have four blanks and one tube that I cast and it was fairly hard after 36 hours. I have not tried to turn it yet, too many other things going on.
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Old 09-19-2017, 01:07 PM   #30 (permalink)
 
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I've seen some comments, Not about LD, but other resins. Note, I'm a true noob at this.. so be kind :) The question I have has to do with wrapping items around the brass tube and casting only to find there is a 'bubble' interface between the item and the tube. Let's say snake skin or a feather.

So, the question is..other than pressure potting.. can this be done in a vacuum to suck all air out of that interface area? Sounds like the cure time is pretty long.
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