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Casting & Stabilization Making your own blanks & stabilizing wood blanks.


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Old 08-13-2017, 11:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogrunner View Post
What are you guys using color it.
So far pearl ex
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Old 08-13-2017, 11:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I just turned my first LD blank I made and I found it softer than Alumilite and PR. Almost too soft. I said almost it still took a shine.
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Old 08-26-2017, 11:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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How much work time do you have before you need to pour with Liquid Diamonds?

Do colors stay separated with Liquid Diamonds? Or, is LD still very thin when pouring into a mold?
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by PSNCO View Post
How much work time do you have before you need to pour with Liquid Diamonds?

Do colors stay separated with Liquid Diamonds? Or, is LD still very thin when pouring into a mold?
You can wait for it to thicken up. In fact maybe better than PR since I don't think it goes from thin, to syrup, to snots, to bottle stopper blank quite so quickly.
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Old 08-29-2017, 04:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Only thing I don't like so far is the looooooooooooong cure time, over 24 hours for a good hard blank to turn. I now wait at least 36 hours to turn it and wait 12 before de-molding it.
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Old 08-29-2017, 05:57 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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I used it to fill some cholla cactus and it worked fine, maybe better than Alumilite, as I had no "bubbles", and I might get one or two bubbles normally with Alumilite. I did put it in a pressure pot at 35 psi.

I did find an unexpected benefit in the slow cure time. After my successful test, I did a batch of 4 more cholla, each a different color. I calculated I'd need 2 oz of epoxy total, so mixed up 2.5 to make sure I had enough. Split that in fourths mixed and poured it into my cholla. I had a bit left over, of course - not enough extra to worry about throwing it away, but since the cure time is so long, I figured... hey I should think of something to do with this. So I grabbed a Sierra length piece of clear plastic tubing and stuffed some little pieces of wood from my "scrap saved for casting" tub. Then swirled my remaining epoxy in there. To my surprise, it didn't take much, so I did another. So I got two bonus "worthless wood" blanks from my cholla pours that I realistically probably wouldn't have had time to mess with if I was working with something fast curing. The worthless wood went into the pressure pot along with the cholla.

I turned one of the worthless wood blanks today and it turned and finished up fine. I think it might be a bit harder than Alumilite.

I know it's more expensive than Alumilite, but for things like cholla and worthless wood, I think I'll switch to using Liquid Diamonds, as the quantities used are small enough to make the extra cost a non-factor.
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Old 08-29-2017, 06:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Has anyone tried casting snake skin with Liquid Diamonds?
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Old 09-17-2017, 12:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by its_virgil View Post
Epoxy resins are notorious for yellowing. Any info on LD and yellowing from sources other than the manufacturer?
Do a good turn daily!
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Check out this company:
https://www.artresin.com/blogs/artre...s-of-yellowing

anti yellowing properties of resin are treated as an afterthought by resin and dye companies in my opinion which surprised me. i contacted a number of them and if they address it at all they use a UV stabilizer which helps with chalking, and other physical properties but not yellowing.
The above company is the only one I could find that addresses this and they've had some interesting tests done by a third party.
Anyway, I ordered some, cast some blocks for test machining (I don't turn things). I drilled a 1" hole with a forstner bit no problem and then cut the slices off the blocks with both a bandsaw and table saw with no issues. I dyed a block with UV stabilized artists acrylic and it worked fine. I then took a part of each block (clear and tinted) and placed them in direct sun for I guess two months now and there's no change in color when compared to the other halves which are kept in a drawer.
Food for thought.
video of test results. It looks like alumilite performs about in the middle of the pack:
https://youtu.be/MzIxcIqCNh8

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Old 09-17-2017, 07:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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chunk of plum wood with termite cavities that I stabilized, filled the voids with Artresin, pressure cast, then cut to size on a bandsaw. it's about 6x5x4. sanded to 240 then coated with Artresin.
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Old 09-17-2017, 09:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
 
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forgot to mention that after cutting to size, I poured Artresin over it.
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