larryc
Member
Who uses Liquid Diamonds epoxy resin?
Results? Comments?
I find only one reference to it here in the forum.
Results? Comments?
I find only one reference to it here in the forum.
Liquid Diamonds epoxy resin
- Thread starter larryc
- Start date
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Silent Thunder
Member
Chad Shimmel just did a video with it.
https://youtu.be/n3-NJvVobgw
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
https://youtu.be/n3-NJvVobgw
Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
stuckinohio
Member
looking forward to seeing how it threads.
Tom Walter
Member
Liquid Diamonds Resin
I did some extensive testing on the product for the distributor, Susan Putman. It threads very well and is the clearest resin I have ever used. I have done just about everything with it you could imagine. The resin is completely odor free and is very thin so it works very well when making hybrids and embedded items. It has a much longer cure time so it good for casting that need more working time. It is superior in all ways to PR.
I did some extensive testing on the product for the distributor, Susan Putman. It threads very well and is the clearest resin I have ever used. I have done just about everything with it you could imagine. The resin is completely odor free and is very thin so it works very well when making hybrids and embedded items. It has a much longer cure time so it good for casting that need more working time. It is superior in all ways to PR.
stuckinohio
Member
Thank you.
cschimmel
Member
Its a great resin, I have done all types of casting as tests but have really loved it for tube in clear casting. I even did a kitless in it from a rod and t worked great, Good stuff worth a try.
mbroberg
IAP Activities Manager, Emeritus
I ordered some and received it today. I'm looking forward to trying it out. I like hearing that it is odorless. I hope it works as well as I've heard it does.
Just got some and mixed up a small 15ml batch and no odor at all not even the normal 5 min epoxy glue smell.
Also super thin like water.
its_virgil
Member
Epoxy resins are notorious for yellowing. Any info on LD and yellowing from sources other than the manufacturer?
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Do a good turn daily!
Don
So far pearl ex
PSNCO
Member
How much work time do you have before you need to pour with Liquid Diamonds?
Do colors stay separated with Liquid Diamonds? Or, is LD still very thin when pouring into a mold?
Do colors stay separated with Liquid Diamonds? Or, is LD still very thin when pouring into a mold?
You can wait for it to thicken up. In fact maybe better than PR since I don't think it goes from thin, to syrup, to snots, to bottle stopper blank quite so quickly.
BeeAMaker
Member
Only thing I don't like so far is the looooooooooooong cure time, over 24 hours for a good hard blank to turn. I now wait at least 36 hours to turn it and wait 12 before de-molding it.
budnder
Member
I used it to fill some cholla cactus and it worked fine, maybe better than Alumilite, as I had no "bubbles", and I might get one or two bubbles normally with Alumilite. I did put it in a pressure pot at 35 psi.
I did find an unexpected benefit in the slow cure time. After my successful test, I did a batch of 4 more cholla, each a different color. I calculated I'd need 2 oz of epoxy total, so mixed up 2.5 to make sure I had enough. Split that in fourths mixed and poured it into my cholla. I had a bit left over, of course - not enough extra to worry about throwing it away, but since the cure time is so long, I figured... hey I should think of something to do with this. So I grabbed a Sierra length piece of clear plastic tubing and stuffed some little pieces of wood from my "scrap saved for casting" tub. Then swirled my remaining epoxy in there. To my surprise, it didn't take much, so I did another. So I got two bonus "worthless wood" blanks from my cholla pours that I realistically probably wouldn't have had time to mess with if I was working with something fast curing. The worthless wood went into the pressure pot along with the cholla.
I turned one of the worthless wood blanks today and it turned and finished up fine. I think it might be a bit harder than Alumilite.
I know it's more expensive than Alumilite, but for things like cholla and worthless wood, I think I'll switch to using Liquid Diamonds, as the quantities used are small enough to make the extra cost a non-factor.
I did find an unexpected benefit in the slow cure time. After my successful test, I did a batch of 4 more cholla, each a different color. I calculated I'd need 2 oz of epoxy total, so mixed up 2.5 to make sure I had enough. Split that in fourths mixed and poured it into my cholla. I had a bit left over, of course - not enough extra to worry about throwing it away, but since the cure time is so long, I figured... hey I should think of something to do with this. So I grabbed a Sierra length piece of clear plastic tubing and stuffed some little pieces of wood from my "scrap saved for casting" tub. Then swirled my remaining epoxy in there. To my surprise, it didn't take much, so I did another. So I got two bonus "worthless wood" blanks from my cholla pours that I realistically probably wouldn't have had time to mess with if I was working with something fast curing. The worthless wood went into the pressure pot along with the cholla.
I turned one of the worthless wood blanks today and it turned and finished up fine. I think it might be a bit harder than Alumilite.
I know it's more expensive than Alumilite, but for things like cholla and worthless wood, I think I'll switch to using Liquid Diamonds, as the quantities used are small enough to make the extra cost a non-factor.
Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
Has anyone tried casting snake skin with Liquid Diamonds?
Check out this company:
https://www.artresin.com/blogs/artr...artresin-formula-better-in-terms-of-yellowing
anti yellowing properties of resin are treated as an afterthought by resin and dye companies in my opinion which surprised me. i contacted a number of them and if they address it at all they use a UV stabilizer which helps with chalking, and other physical properties but not yellowing.
The above company is the only one I could find that addresses this and they've had some interesting tests done by a third party.
Anyway, I ordered some, cast some blocks for test machining (I don't turn things). I drilled a 1" hole with a forstner bit no problem and then cut the slices off the blocks with both a bandsaw and table saw with no issues. I dyed a block with UV stabilized artists acrylic and it worked fine. I then took a part of each block (clear and tinted) and placed them in direct sun for I guess two months now and there's no change in color when compared to the other halves which are kept in a drawer.
Food for thought.
video of test results. It looks like alumilite performs about in the middle of the pack:
https://youtu.be/MzIxcIqCNh8
Last edited:
Chiller Killer
Member
I have not heard anything negative about it , its my next
triw51
Member
can you color the resin (i.e. blue, white etc.)? If so what would you use to dye the resin? Thanks William
tkbarron
Member
I've used both dye and mica with great results. Because of the long pot life, I'd recommend holding off pouring your mica casts as soon as you mix in the hardener because mica tends to settle. Give it about 30 minutes then stir the contents again before pouring.
Just my $.02.
Thanks!
eharri446
Member
I did some research last night and found the Technical Data Sheet on the TurnersWarehouse web site.
It stated that Liquid Diamond will enter the gel state in about 45 minutes if you are working in a room that is 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
As far as tinting goes, I am using my alumilite dyes with no issues. I know of people who are using Transtint dyes, and some who are using Mixol dyes.
I have not tried Mixol dyes with Liquid Diamond yet, however, I have used them to tint 5 minute epoxy with good results.
One thing I will say for sure, is if you remove the cast pieces from you molds to soon they can stick to whatever you lay them on and they can deform under their own weight.
It stated that Liquid Diamond will enter the gel state in about 45 minutes if you are working in a room that is 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
As far as tinting goes, I am using my alumilite dyes with no issues. I know of people who are using Transtint dyes, and some who are using Mixol dyes.
I have not tried Mixol dyes with Liquid Diamond yet, however, I have used them to tint 5 minute epoxy with good results.
One thing I will say for sure, is if you remove the cast pieces from you molds to soon they can stick to whatever you lay them on and they can deform under their own weight.
PatrickR
Member
Does LD get as hard as acrylic? Hard enough that you can not dent it with a fingernail?
BeeAMaker
Member
After about 72 hours it is very hard, at least comparable to acrylic and you can not dent it with your finger nail. Within that first 24 hours however it is very soft and as mentioned it can deform under it's own weight. I have had that happen to me once, being to impatient.
PatrickR
Member
Thanks! I just need to wait longer then. I completed my first two sets of castings over the last two days. Just 24 hrs since the last one.
BeeAMaker
Member
I now wait 3 days before turning.
eharri446
Member
The technical data sheet said that it could take as long as 7 days to reach maximum hardness if left in a room at about 50 degrees Fahrenheit, or maybe it was 77 degrees. It is terrible what happens to your mind as you get older.
I have four blanks and one tube that I cast and it was fairly hard after 36 hours. I have not tried to turn it yet, too many other things going on.
I have four blanks and one tube that I cast and it was fairly hard after 36 hours. I have not tried to turn it yet, too many other things going on.
Spinzwood
Member
I've seen some comments, Not about LD, but other resins. Note, I'm a true noob at this.. so be kind The question I have has to do with wrapping items around the brass tube and casting only to find there is a 'bubble' interface between the item and the tube. Let's say snake skin or a feather.
So, the question is..other than pressure potting.. can this be done in a vacuum to suck all air out of that interface area? Sounds like the cure time is pretty long.
The question I have has to do with wrapping items around the brass tube and casting only to find there is a 'bubble' interface between the item and the tube. Let's say snake skin or a feather.So, the question is..other than pressure potting.. can this be done in a vacuum to suck all air out of that interface area? Sounds like the cure time is pretty long.
Woodchipper
Member
Custom fishing rod builders put one or two coats of color preserver over a feather or snakeskin. This eliminates any irregularities that would result in air bubbles.
PatrickR
Member
I'm curious what everyone's average pressure pot time and de-mold times are? (I know it highly variable)
Ive been using 7 hrs under pressure and 8-9 for de-mold with good results. It's still soft but past the point of deforming.
I'm using lecithin release. I don't like using silicone on anything that will get a finish.
Ive been using 7 hrs under pressure and 8-9 for de-mold with good results. It's still soft but past the point of deforming.
I'm using lecithin release. I don't like using silicone on anything that will get a finish.
BeeAMaker
Member
If I use a PP on LD, I put it in at 60psi and leave it over night.
I recently disassembled a pen I put together about 4 weeks ago. A blank I made with LD. I noticed a nice little dent where the Pen clip was resting. The blank sat for a week before I turned it, so even after all that time it is still soft enough to dent with a bit of persistent pressure. Not that big of a deal I guess, but shows the softness of the product.
stuckinohio
Member
Has anyone used the weatherproof labels when doing tube-in casting with liquid diamonds?
I prefer the weatherproof labels over typical mailing labels for the deeper colors I get with the weatherproof labels. They work great with alumilite, but I don't know if they work with PR and others.
I prefer the weatherproof labels over typical mailing labels for the deeper colors I get with the weatherproof labels. They work great with alumilite, but I don't know if they work with PR and others.
BeeAMaker
Member
I took this one out after 12 hours. IT was perfect, no bubbles. Then about an hour later I notice this bubble working it's way out - I will be increasing my pot time to 24 hours. It was still really soft at this stage.
BeeAMaker
Member
LD sticks to more things (or better than) than Alumilite does, so I would think it would be fine.
m4skinner
Member
I am using liquid diamond with weatherproof label some and they work very good. I have them in the pot 12hrs, there still soft when I take them out but not to soft to demold.
I couldn't get weatherproof labels to work with pr and I even sealed the labels.
stuckinohio
Member
Brian G
Member
What wasn't working? I'm asking because I used Avery Trueblock labels, and had horrible results after sealing the label with CA. It looked like the CA flaked/crackled.
I didn't have that problem when I used "regular" labels. I haven't done much label casting, so I don't know if I messed up in process, or if it's something about the Trueblock.
Thanks in advance.
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m4skinner
Member
I use avery trueblock labels with pr with no trouble and seal them with ca. when I used weatherproof labels with pr and sealed with ca the label would wrinkle while casting.