I would like to start to make some pen blanks with the Alumilite clear, or the Alumilite clear slow. I have not made the investment of a pressure pot as yet. I have made a vacuum chamber using a converted air compressor and a large spaghetti pot with a clear lid. I am able to get 21 in. of vacuum but I am not sure if that will be enough to remove the air from the Alumilite. What would be the minimum amount of vacuum needed to work effectively?
How much vacume do I need?
- Thread starter myavid76
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TattooedTurner
Member
The directions on my vacuum chamber say you need 28 to degas, and I've noticed it doesn't boil until I get close. Also, Alumilite sets up too quickly for a vacuum to be practical.
TattooedTurner
Member
Same here. I'm not happy at all degassing resin so I intend to get a CA Technologies pressure pot. To make matters worse some lowlife stole my air compressor so I need to replace it. At least I'm not married so no need to hide the purchase. I guess if you look hard enough there's good in everything...
jsolie
Member
Unless I'm misunderstanding, isn't vacuum for stabilizing and pressure for casting? At least that's what I use each for.
TattooedTurner
Member
Generally, but some use vacuum to degas the resin before pouring into the mold instead of a pressure pot after pouring. The only advantage I can think of using vacuum is you can degas one batch after the other, with a pressure pot you're not using it again until the resin is cured. I get good results with vacuum, but sometimes I do get an air bubble. I'm pretty sure with pressure that doesn't happen at all. I've also had trouble getting glass like clear or translucent castings for some reason.
howsitwork
Member
Well I've got vacuum and chamber but as yet not tried it. I bought it to try vacuum chucking and veneering but saw at AWGB Loughborough a few years back that it's useful to de gas for casting.
They recommended slowly upping the vacuum, to avoid "boiling off". Once guy on U tube used a vibrating seat to shake the moulds as well.
Currently replaciong bearings in lathe but must then give my set up a try out once I have free time.
They recommended slowly upping the vacuum, to avoid "boiling off". Once guy on U tube used a vibrating seat to shake the moulds as well.
Currently replaciong bearings in lathe but must then give my set up a try out once I have free time.
TattooedTurner
Member
I think it's more a problem of boiling over than boiling off, the amount of resin isn't reduced. When it gets close to 28 it starts to boil rapidly & can overflow if the container the resin is in isn't high (deep) enough. Just let some air in slowly then close off the valve as soon as the resin drops down a bit.
Alumilite is for casting and Pressure (in the form of a Pressure Pot and a compressor) is needed. See Curtis Seebek https://www.turntex.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=52&Itemid=112 who got this whole thing started and Zac Higgins NV Woodwerks-Custom Alumilite turning blanks, and resin casting education who has created dozens of videos of the same. Stabilization (the use of vacuum to withdraw air from objects and then the release of the vacuum to allow the Stabilizer to rush back into the voids left by the vacuumed air) requires a vacuum chamber and vacuum pump.