Gearing up to try casting PR

[Lenny]

I received my gallon of Silmar41 today along with a set of transparent pigments from U.S. Composites. Was a little surprised that they are liquids. (which I guess shows how little I know) Will these work and what should I expect for results or what should I be aware of for pitfalls with them?

I also, based on some threads where Butch and others recommended Coastal Scents mica powders, have placed an order for various colors. (That site is enough to make your head spin in itself)
Will they work with the transparent pigments from U.S. Composites? Looking at their site again I now see they also had solid pigments and I'm thinking THAT is probably what I should have gotten! ???

I just took my silicone mold out of the form after 48 hrs. and it's still pretty squishy.... I thought it was acetic cure. It came out of the form ok But it's rather like jello ... is that normal or should it be more rigid?

I may instead try making one out of a cutting board and just plan to make sure to use some form of release agent. Or maybe a trip to the dollar store for some shallow tupperware type dishes?

Any thoughts appreciated.

If we learn by our mistakes, I'm going to be a genius! :redface:

 

[louie68]

Lenny glad to see you are getting ready to do some casting.
Solid pigment works well check out www.mudhole.com thats where i purchase my pigment colors. Plus that have a white preservative that is what I use on casting snake skins it protect them. This site show how to applied snake skin & various applications. May I suggest THEPENWIZARD he's a member on IAP Joe Swall sells Molds on IAP where there is no drilling and you save alot of resin when pouring. He has molds for Monet,Gatsby,Euro pen,Cigar Mold, Jr. Majestic, bottle stoppers, and they all work great. Check out his website www.thepenwizard.com .I have been casting since September 2010 & it's a blast, good Luck Casting. Louie56

 

[NewLondon88]

I received my gallon of Silmar41 today along with a set of transparent pigments from U.S. Composites. Was a little surprised that they are liquids. (which I guess shows how little I know) Will these work and what should I expect for results or what should I be aware of for pitfalls with them?

I also, based on some threads where Butch and others recommended Coastal Scents mica powders, have placed an order for various colors. (That site is enough to make your head spin in itself)
Will they work with the transparent pigments from U.S. Composites? Looking at their site again I now see they also had solid pigments and I'm thinking THAT is probably what I should have gotten! ???

I just took my silicone mold out of the form after 48 hrs. and it's still pretty squishy.... I thought it was acetic cure. It came out of the form ok But it's rather like jello ... is that normal or should it be more rigid?

I may instead try making one out of a cutting board and just plan to make sure to use some form of release agent. Or maybe a trip to the dollar store for some shallow tupperware type dishes?

Any thoughts appreciated.

If we learn by our mistakes, I'm going to be a genius! :redface:

The pigments will work fine. You can mix and match as long as they are
compatible with PR. I don't know that I'd use too much of the colored mica
with colored resin unless you experiment first. Sometimes the mica colors
can get lost in dyed resin.

Get yourself some opaque white, or use a white powder. Combined with
the translucent dyes, you'll get an opaque color.

Liquid, paste, powders .. it will all work. Some are just easier to mix than
others. For powders, hold out a little resin to mix a paste. That makes it
easier to mix into the resin.

The acetic cure silicone cured better in thin layers, but it will eventually
cure. (as long as it is exposed to air) Give it some time and let it breathe.

You know you're going to get addicted, right?

 

[witz1976]

+1 to what chuck said. When I made my silicone mold it took about 4 days to fully cure (2 of them were baking in full summer sun) Just give it time it will cure.

Also I have a couple of resin savers (one will do 5/8 sq. the other is for sierras) if you want to borrow them.

BTW is the wife leaving town, or you gonna risk stinking up the house:biggrin::biggrin:

 

[NewLondon88]

BTW is the wife leaving town, or you gonna risk stinking up the house:biggrin::biggrin:

If you hit the dollar store, get yourself one of those big, square tupperware
things. Mix and pour outside, in the garage, in the shed .. wherever you
need to . Put the molds in the tupperware, put the cover on and bring it
in the house to cure. No fumes that way..

.. just remember to bring it back outside when you open it.. or you gonna
risk stinking up the house.:biggrin::biggrin:

 

[its_virgil]

I have and use both the transparent and opaque paste pigments from USComposites (their two sampler kits) and they work fine. I also use super sparkle powder from artstuf.com I used the opaque red and black with the super sparkle powder and made a blank in my casting demo in Phoenix at the Desert Woodturning RoundUP over the weekend. I;ll turn and polish it and post a picture...after I rest up. Six demos in 2 days and I'm beat.
I'm going to try the powders from coastal scents next.
Do a good turn daily!
don

I received my gallon of Silmar41 today along with a set of transparent pigments from U.S. Composites. Was a little surprised that they are liquids. (which I guess shows how little I know) Will these work and what should I expect for results or what should I be aware of for pitfalls with them?
:redface:

 

[Lenny]

Which comes FIRST is the question! :biggrin:

Louie, Thanks for the link.
I have seen the molds offered by members here such as the Penwizard, PTownSubbie and of course Charlie's ResinSavers. I think they are all great, however, ... they require you to KNOW ahead of time what kit you are going to use (as they all pour around the tubes) and I can't think that far ahead yet.:wink:

Charlie, Thanks for clarifying how to mix outside and then bring them inside to cure. I had read some posts where something like that was suggested and now I understand it better. (of course you know I WILL forget when the time comes and in my excitment to check the results I'll pull the cover off while still inside!) :biggrin:

Don, I'm glad to know what I got will work, even if it wasn't quite what I thought. I guess the best thing to do at this point is to jump in with what I have and see what happens. :wink:
Hope your able to rest up .... look forward to seeing the photo when you get it turned!

Thanks everyone !

 

[PenMan1]

Lenny:
The transparent and translucent dyes work quiet nicely with both thr coastal scents and PearlEx pigments.

For what it's worth, I have found that 1/16th treaspoon (total of all colors) per ounce of the pearl pigs works fine. Conversely, much more than 1/8th treaspoon per ounce make the blank turn like turning bb's.

A HF ultrasonic cleaner with heat makes bubble free casting much easier.

Recycle code 5 plastic cups work great as mixing cups ($2 for 64 cups- family dollar and dollar general stores). Coded 1 & 6 make a big mess. Sour cream and cottage cheese containers and all rubbermaid products work well. The small sour cream cups make great bottle stopper and shaving brush molds as do empty pill bottles.

DO NOT follow U.S. composite 's recommendation of 10 drops of catalyst per ounce. 5 drops is PLENTY! 4 drops is better, here. Some in your climate conditions perfer 3 drops per ounce.

If you have questions pm me or call, I think you have my toll free number.

 

[robutacion]

Hi Lenny,

Just before I forget, get yourself some latex disposable gloves and some acetone, make sure you have gloves on when you are paying with resins, thing can get pretty messy when you least expect and resin is a very sticky and hard thing to clean up. Some news papers covering the working area/bench/table, etc, is a good thing, believe me...!:wink:

In regards to the colours, I started with the opaque and translucent stuff before I found the Pearlex mica powders, I still use them and sometimes you need the opaque stuff to get really solid colours but the good thing about them, they all work well together, no problem...!

While the resin-saver type molds are indeed a great way to save materials/resin, etc., a solid mold made out of the white cutting boards is most certainly a handy thing to have, in fact is all I have for my castings.

As singular molds, the saver type molds are the way to go after you decide what kits to use but for a more general casting approach where you don't have to be worried about what kit those blanks are going to be used with, the open molds like those I made recently and shown on my casting threads, are great, as you can very easily make 6 or seven blanks from one single mold, as one slab and cut it after dried. The release agent on these are a must...!

If you require measurements of molds and even the wooden tray I've made to get the most capacity out of one go, let me know...!

Good luck, casting is a very exciting exercise, and if you like to make a different cast every time, you will have something exciting to look forwards (cutting them and see what you've done) every day. I suggest that you make your castings in the afternoon/evening, the last thing you do in the shed/workshop, put them in the pot and leave them alone until the next day, you will be surprised of how much you would look forwards to the next day.

This sort of excitement is not only for kids, is for everyone at any age, unless you don't care, in that case, you are already dead...!:wink::biggrin:

Good luck

Cheers
George

 

[Lenny]

Thanks for the reply George!
One of the first things I did, while waiting for my order of resin to arrive, was go out and replenish my acetone. I also picked up a few disposable gloves but will need to get more.

Andy, I picked up some platic cups the other day ... NOW I have to check them to see what type they are! :biggrin:
Thanks for you exact measurment guidlines, That really helps with a starting point.
I KNEW I had been saving those pill bottles for something!
I may have to call you .... if only to ask how to remove pr resin from a grey beard!

Thanks again all!

 

[PenMan1]

Oh yeah! We buy "kraft paper" by the roll at BORG. My casting work station is a maple top work bench. We roll the craft paper over the bench before each casting session and pull up the old immediately after each session.

No matter how careful you are, this is messy business. Imagine mixing maple syrup with thin CA.....and that's how messy the UNCATALYSED resin is!!!

 

[Lenny]

I use West System epoxy all the time at work .... Is this stuff any worse than that?

 

[DozerMite]

I've never had a problem with messes. I used to cast on a counter top in my shop and it still looks brand new. Maybe some are a little more excited than others while casting or maybe the coffee?

One thing about casting with cutting board molds... most people make them large (enough for 6 or 7 blanks) but, the the bad thing is, in my case anyway, is I don't need 6 or 7 pens of the same color. If you plan to sell, then that would be beneficial.

The transluscent colors can be combined with the mica's to obtain an opaque blank or use it to your advantage to create a unique blank. You will more than likely be painting the blanks and/or tubes anyway.

The most important thing is... DO NOT cast inside the house and where you do cast, have PLENTY of ventilation!! A quality mask is a good idea as well. The odor isn't just to upset your wife... it is VERY toxic!! Read the MSDS on it and understand the risks and warnings or your casting career may come to a halt, suddenly. These are chemicals...not brownies. Be safe and enjoy casting.

 

[Lenny]

DO NOT cast inside the house and where you do cast, have PLENTY of ventilation!! A quality mask is a good idea as well. The odor isn't just to upset your wife... it is VERY toxic!! Read the MSDS on it and understand the risks and warnings or your casting career may come to a halt, suddenly. These are chemicals...not brownies. Be safe and enjoy casting.

That point is not lost on me. Thank you!

It may well be that I have to wait a few more weeks until it's a little warmer. It was 7 degrees this morning! I think it stays even colder in my little shop. Had hoped I could do the casting in my basement shop but that may not work after all.:frown:
I need to dig out my old pressure tank that I used with my HVLP unit. If nothing else it might be a way to seal the fumes in while the casting sets up ????

 

[PenMan1]

Oh, and by the way, PR really LIKEs 70 degree temps, 60... might work....50 look out. 7 degrees, forget it ... it'll freeze before it sets.

 

[Lenny]

Oh, and by the way, PR really LIKEs 70 degree temps, 60... might work....50 look out. 7 degrees, forget it ... it'll freeze before it sets.

Boy, I sure look forward to those 6 weeks of Summer!

 

[ZanderPommo]

i casted when it hit 40 over here (warm for now) and it took a bit over 24 hrs with 5 drops per ounce of catalyst.
then casted again on saturday and the temp dropped back down to high 20s (still soft, itll b out there awhile)

 

[ctubbs]

I may have to call you .... if only to ask how to remove pr resin from a grey beard!

Thanks again all!

A good pair of scissors, razor sharp knife and a steady hand! DAMHIKT :redface::tongue:
Charles

 

[MartinPens]

Lenny:
The transparent and translucent dyes work quiet nicely with both thr coastal scents and PearlEx pigments.

For what it's worth, I have found that 1/16th treaspoon (total of all colors) per ounce of the pearl pigs works fine. Conversely, much more than 1/8th treaspoon per ounce make the blank turn like turning bb's.

A HF ultrasonic cleaner with heat makes bubble free casting much easier.

Recycle code 5 plastic cups work great as mixing cups ($2 for 64 cups- family dollar and dollar general stores). Coded 1 & 6 make a big mess. Sour cream and cottage cheese containers and all rubbermaid products work well. The small sour cream cups make great bottle stopper and shaving brush molds as do empty pill bottles.

DO NOT follow U.S. composite 's recommendation of 10 drops of catalyst per ounce. 5 drops is PLENTY! 4 drops is better, here. Some in your climate conditions perfer 3 drops per ounce.

If you have questions pm me or call, I think you have my toll free number.

This is good to know. I was reading the catalyst amounts I downloaded from U.S. Comp, so thanks for the. Heads up. Just got my Resin Savers and ordered my Silmar41 today. Picked up an ultrasonic at HF on sale and will be hunting cups at the dollar store next. I'm starting with clear pours for some stamp blanks and might venture into color mixes when I can wrap my head around some of this info.

I can see that I'm going to be hooked!

Martin

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

 

[ZanderPommo]

Don't cast in your basement! DAMHIKT
haha dad almost banned me from casting on that one, now I cast in my unheated sunroom with ALL the windows open, and I dont open the door 2 the house for 24 hrs,((or 6-8 if its above 65 degrees)) I actually go out the back sunroom door and around the house into my front door to avoid exposing my family to the fumes

DO NOT cast inside the house and where you do cast, have PLENTY of ventilation!! A quality mask is a good idea as well. The odor isn't just to upset your wife... it is VERY toxic!! Read the MSDS on it and understand the risks and warnings or your casting career may come to a halt, suddenly. These are chemicals...not brownies. Be safe and enjoy casting.

That point is not lost on me. Thank you!

It may well be that I have to wait a few more weeks until it's a little warmer. It was 7 degrees this morning! I think it stays even colder in my little shop. Had hoped I could do the casting in my basement shop but that may not work after all.:frown:
I need to dig out my old pressure tank that I used with my HVLP unit. If nothing else it might be a way to seal the fumes in while the casting sets up ????

 

[Dana Fish]

So Lenny how those forms turn out?

 

[Lenny]

So Lenny how those forms turn out?

It took awhile, as Dan had said, but it is nice and firm now.

 

[Lenny]

Don't cast in your basement! DAMHIKT
haha dad almost banned me from casting on that one, now I cast in my unheated sunroom with ALL the windows open, and I dont open the door 2 the house for 24 hrs,((or 6-8 if its above 65 degrees)) I actually go out the back sunroom door and around the house into my front door to avoid exposing my family to the fumes

Best to do what your Dad says! I've seen the video of his work on the range! :biggrin::wink:

 

[ZanderPommo]

haha I beat him in every one of those matches! I aint scared!
..............just dont tell him i said that...

 

[MartinPens]

Great info here. I just read the article on how to make a casting mold. So many things to try, so little time and money!!

Martin

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

 

[witz1976]

Heck Lenny nice mold! I see you were more patient than I was, my first mold had a couple of tears and gouges when I tried to free the mold too soon.

Bet you cannot wait for summer now huh!

 

[Lenny]

Heck Lenny nice mold! I see you were more patient than I was, my first mold had a couple of tears and gouges when I tried to free the mold too soon.

Bet you cannot wait for summer now huh!

Yeah! When is that again? Is it July 4th again this year?

 

[PenMan1]

Lenny:
Be sure to get yourself a "spit cup". I use a 24 oz "take out" BBQ container.

If you mold holds say 9 oz, mix 10 oz. Trying to "add" to a too shallow mold is almost impossible to get great results. If you have left over catylized resin, just pour it in the spit cup. Next time, just add the left overs to what is already in the spit cup.

Some of my best selling stuff is made from "spit cup" blanks. As one customer put it, "it reminded him of his LSD days"

 

[witz1976]

Lenny:
Be sure to get yourself a "spit cup". I use a 24 oz "take out" BBQ container.

If you mold holds say 9 oz, mix 10 oz. Trying to "add" to a too shallow mold is almost impossible to get great results. If you have left over catylized resin, just pour it in the spit cup. Next time, just add the left overs to what is already in the spit cup.

Some of my best selling stuff is made from "spit cup" blanks. As one customer put it, "it reminded him of his LSD days"

Another thing that could work too, is get a pack of silicone baking cups and you will have enough resin for a pendant blank....if you make & sell them that is.

 

[Lenny]

Thanks, Andy and Dan!
I'm having a little trouble visualizing what a 24 oz. bbq container is though?

I think you have confirmed for me one question though, and that is ... You can make additional pours over an already hardened pour...??? Correct?

I may have to give up pen turning and start working on a Ark the way the rain is coming down today!!