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Casting & Stabilization Making your own blanks & stabilizing wood blanks.


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Old 02-21-2011, 07:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Gearing up to try casting PR

I received my gallon of Silmar41 today along with a set of transparent pigments from U.S. Composites. Was a little surprised that they are liquids. (which I guess shows how little I know) Will these work and what should I expect for results or what should I be aware of for pitfalls with them?

I also, based on some threads where Butch and others recommended Coastal Scents mica powders, have placed an order for various colors. (That site is enough to make your head spin in itself)
Will they work with the transparent pigments from U.S. Composites? Looking at their site again I now see they also had solid pigments and I'm thinking THAT is probably what I should have gotten! ???

I just took my silicone mold out of the form after 48 hrs. and it's still pretty squishy.... I thought it was acetic cure. It came out of the form ok But it's rather like jello ... is that normal or should it be more rigid?

I may instead try making one out of a cutting board and just plan to make sure to use some form of release agent. Or maybe a trip to the dollar store for some shallow tupperware type dishes?

Any thoughts appreciated.

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Old 02-21-2011, 07:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Lenny glad to see you are getting ready to do some casting.
Solid pigment works well check out www.mudhole.com thats where i purchase my pigment colors. Plus that have a white preservative that is what I use on casting snake skins it protect them. This site show how to applied snake skin & various applications. May I suggest THEPENWIZARD he's a member on IAP Joe Swall sells Molds on IAP where there is no drilling and you save alot of resin when pouring. He has molds for Monet,Gatsby,Euro pen,Cigar Mold, Jr. Majestic, bottle stoppers, and they all work great. Check out his website www.thepenwizard.com .I have been casting since September 2010 & it's a blast, good Luck Casting. Louie56
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenny View Post
I received my gallon of Silmar41 today along with a set of transparent pigments from U.S. Composites. Was a little surprised that they are liquids. (which I guess shows how little I know) Will these work and what should I expect for results or what should I be aware of for pitfalls with them?

I also, based on some threads where Butch and others recommended Coastal Scents mica powders, have placed an order for various colors. (That site is enough to make your head spin in itself)
Will they work with the transparent pigments from U.S. Composites? Looking at their site again I now see they also had solid pigments and I'm thinking THAT is probably what I should have gotten! ???

I just took my silicone mold out of the form after 48 hrs. and it's still pretty squishy.... I thought it was acetic cure. It came out of the form ok But it's rather like jello ... is that normal or should it be more rigid?

I may instead try making one out of a cutting board and just plan to make sure to use some form of release agent. Or maybe a trip to the dollar store for some shallow tupperware type dishes?

Any thoughts appreciated.

If we learn by our mistakes, I'm going to be a genius!
The pigments will work fine. You can mix and match as long as they are
compatible with PR. I don't know that I'd use too much of the colored mica
with colored resin unless you experiment first. Sometimes the mica colors
can get lost in dyed resin.

Get yourself some opaque white, or use a white powder. Combined with
the translucent dyes, you'll get an opaque color.

Liquid, paste, powders .. it will all work. Some are just easier to mix than
others. For powders, hold out a little resin to mix a paste. That makes it
easier to mix into the resin.

The acetic cure silicone cured better in thin layers, but it will eventually
cure. (as long as it is exposed to air) Give it some time and let it breathe.

You know you're going to get addicted, right?
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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+1 to what chuck said. When I made my silicone mold it took about 4 days to fully cure (2 of them were baking in full summer sun) Just give it time it will cure.

Also I have a couple of resin savers (one will do 5/8 sq. the other is for sierras) if you want to borrow them.

BTW is the wife leaving town, or you gonna risk stinking up the house
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:11 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by witz1976 View Post

BTW is the wife leaving town, or you gonna risk stinking up the house

If you hit the dollar store, get yourself one of those big, square tupperware
things. Mix and pour outside, in the garage, in the shed .. wherever you
need to . Put the molds in the tupperware, put the cover on and bring it
in the house to cure. No fumes that way..

.. just remember to bring it back outside when you open it.. or you gonna
risk stinking up the house.
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I have and use both the transparent and opaque paste pigments from USComposites (their two sampler kits) and they work fine. I also use super sparkle powder from artstuf.com I used the opaque red and black with the super sparkle powder and made a blank in my casting demo in Phoenix at the Desert Woodturning RoundUP over the weekend. I;ll turn and polish it and post a picture...after I rest up. Six demos in 2 days and I'm beat.
I'm going to try the powders from coastal scents next.
Do a good turn daily!
don

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lenny View Post
I received my gallon of Silmar41 today along with a set of transparent pigments from U.S. Composites. Was a little surprised that they are liquids. (which I guess shows how little I know) Will these work and what should I expect for results or what should I be aware of for pitfalls with them?
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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[quote=witz1976;1178043
BTW is the wife leaving town, or you gonna risk stinking up the house[/quote]

Which comes FIRST is the question!

Louie, Thanks for the link.
I have seen the molds offered by members here such as the Penwizard, PTownSubbie and of course Charlie's ResinSavers. I think they are all great, however, ... they require you to KNOW ahead of time what kit you are going to use (as they all pour around the tubes) and I can't think that far ahead yet.

Charlie, Thanks for clarifying how to mix outside and then bring them inside to cure. I had read some posts where something like that was suggested and now I understand it better. (of course you know I WILL forget when the time comes and in my excitment to check the results I'll pull the cover off while still inside!)

Don, I'm glad to know what I got will work, even if it wasn't quite what I thought. I guess the best thing to do at this point is to jump in with what I have and see what happens.
Hope your able to rest up .... look forward to seeing the photo when you get it turned!

Thanks everyone !
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Lenny:
The transparent and translucent dyes work quiet nicely with both thr coastal scents and PearlEx pigments.

For what it's worth, I have found that 1/16th treaspoon (total of all colors) per ounce of the pearl pigs works fine. Conversely, much more than 1/8th treaspoon per ounce make the blank turn like turning bb's.

A HF ultrasonic cleaner with heat makes bubble free casting much easier.

Recycle code 5 plastic cups work great as mixing cups ($2 for 64 cups- family dollar and dollar general stores). Coded 1 & 6 make a big mess. Sour cream and cottage cheese containers and all rubbermaid products work well. The small sour cream cups make great bottle stopper and shaving brush molds as do empty pill bottles.

DO NOT follow U.S. composite 's recommendation of 10 drops of catalyst per ounce. 5 drops is PLENTY! 4 drops is better, here. Some in your climate conditions perfer 3 drops per ounce.

If you have questions pm me or call, I think you have my toll free number.
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Last edited by PenMan1; 02-21-2011 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Hi Lenny,

Just before I forget, get yourself some latex disposable gloves and some acetone, make sure you have gloves on when you are paying with resins, thing can get pretty messy when you least expect and resin is a very sticky and hard thing to clean up. Some news papers covering the working area/bench/table, etc, is a good thing, believe me...!

In regards to the colours, I started with the opaque and translucent stuff before I found the Pearlex mica powders, I still use them and sometimes you need the opaque stuff to get really solid colours but the good thing about them, they all work well together, no problem...!

While the resin-saver type molds are indeed a great way to save materials/resin, etc., a solid mold made out of the white cutting boards is most certainly a handy thing to have, in fact is all I have for my castings.

As singular molds, the saver type molds are the way to go after you decide what kits to use but for a more general casting approach where you don't have to be worried about what kit those blanks are going to be used with, the open molds like those I made recently and shown on my casting threads, are great, as you can very easily make 6 or seven blanks from one single mold, as one slab and cut it after dried. The release agent on these are a must...!

If you require measurements of molds and even the wooden tray I've made to get the most capacity out of one go, let me know...!

Good luck, casting is a very exciting exercise, and if you like to make a different cast every time, you will have something exciting to look forwards (cutting them and see what you've done) every day. I suggest that you make your castings in the afternoon/evening, the last thing you do in the shed/workshop, put them in the pot and leave them alone until the next day, you will be surprised of how much you would look forwards to the next day.

This sort of excitement is not only for kids, is for everyone at any age, unless you don't care, in that case, you are already dead...!

Good luck

Cheers
George
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for the reply George!
One of the first things I did, while waiting for my order of resin to arrive, was go out and replenish my acetone. I also picked up a few disposable gloves but will need to get more.

Andy, I picked up some platic cups the other day ... NOW I have to check them to see what type they are!
Thanks for you exact measurment guidlines, That really helps with a starting point.
I KNEW I had been saving those pill bottles for something!
I may have to call you .... if only to ask how to remove pr resin from a grey beard!

Thanks again all!
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