Dyed thin set CA?

[ChrisinOR]

I'm going to try an experiment today. I notice that thin set CA will basically absorb into the wood and disappear. It almost has a stabilizing propert. So I thought, why not add some color to the CA. Has anyone tried this? I've got some spalted Myrtle that I might try it on today to see what happens. I'm also trying my first casting with PR. I haven't checked it yet this morning. It wasn't looking to good last night. I think I did something wrong. I'll post the results later today.

Chris Nilluka

 

[Monty]

I believe just about anything you try and mix with the CA to color it will cause it to harden. If you find something that works, let us know. It would be great if it would work.

 

[ChrisinOR]

Well you appear to be right. I went to use the CA again today. The whole bottle was hard as a rock... Well scratch that one off the board.

Chris Nilluka

 

[ed4copies]

Best to experiment in SMALL quantities - just for future reference.

But I was going to tell you you are likely to get a REALLY PRETTY colored ROCK. That's what I've gotten.[][]

 

[arioux]

Turn it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11[]

 

[Alumilite]

CA is a moisture cure (that's why it loves fingers so much) so if you can find a dye or pigment that is perhaps an oil base and does not contain any water, it might work. I'm thinking along the lines of an oil base paint pigment. I'd try your local Sherwin Williams and see if you can get a small sample (maybe in an old 35 mm film canister) of colorant to try. You would only need the tip of a toothpick worth of color to try but it should not harden the CA. Just make sure they tell you there is 0% moisture in it first.

Look for a super glue with a 0 cps (same as water). This is pure monomer. Its the fastest and most reactive super glue there is. Most all super glues start out this way. Then they start adding stuff to it which slows it down and also thickens it up. The 0 cps super glue will glue your fingers together faster than a blink of an eye but also works the best for wicking into wood.

Hopefully your wood is nice and dry too. If the wood has too much moisture, the CA might dry with a frosty appearance to it similar to when you cure it with an accelerator.

Mike
Alumilite
800 447-9344

 

[Mikey]

Hmmm, wonder if the woodworking tints/dyes that are alcohol base will work? I know they are available in both powder and pre-mix. Heck, even the powdered ones that are water based are still powder and *should* give you at least some work time.

 

[ed4copies]

The powder turns to rock, instantly. At least in small quantities.
BTDT

 

[ChrisinOR]

Originally posted by Mikey
<br />Hmmm, wonder if the woodworking tints/dyes that are alcohol base will work? I know they are available in both powder and pre-mix. Heck, even the powdered ones that are water based are still powder and *should* give you at least some work time.

A woodworking dye is what I used. I tried Transtint dye. It didn't harden instantly, but it eventually did. Honestly, I don't think it looked very nice anyway. I was hoping it would have the look of dyed and stabilized wood. The CA doesn't penetrate like during the stabilization process. It ends up looking all blotchy.

Chris Nilluka

 

[Mikey]

Thanks Ed, did not know that even the powder would do that.

I can say with 100% certainty that the new Barry Gross 2nd edition book shows him coloring a blank with the Behnlins (sp?) wood stain. I would suggest using that, then topping with CA.

 

[ed4copies]

Seemed like a good idea at the time - WRONG!!![}][}][}][}]

 

[Dario]

Color/dye the wood (after turning) then apply CA...works everytime. [][]

 

[ed4copies]

Dario,

"Not so much" on dyed, stabilized corncobs.[][][]

 

[wdcav1952]

Chris, and everyone else,

Thanks for experimenting and sharing with all of us. Many of us are only willing to share our successes, but we can all learn from other's less than successful experiences.

 

[ed4copies]

You don't have time to hear about all of my failures!!!!

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