Cut list for cutting board molds

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MesquiteMan

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Attached is a cut list I came up with for making 3 molds from 15x20" 1/2" cutting boards available at Sams. Thought I would share in case anyone is in the market to make some and wanted to minimize waste.

Basically just cut out the pieces and screw them together!
 

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Mudder

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<hint, hint> That cutting diagram would make a nice addition to a small tutorial on mold making. Who knows, it could be the best article of 2009.
 

el_d

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Whoa I just bought a cutting board for this very reason. Thanks Curtis, And thanks alot for the help saterday. We enjoyed the visit, got to do it again....... Ill take some beer.
 

kirkfranks

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Here's mine

Here is a picture of one of the 3 I made.
Thanks Curtis for the cut list.
 

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PenAffair

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I've been using some cutting board moulds like this for a while, but I'm unhappy with the fit, as there is leakage through the cracks between each of the pieces. Maybe my saw just won't cut straight. I've resorted to sealing the gaps with wax, which works fine, and also helps the blank slip out when set, but it does need refreshing occasionally as some wax comes out with the resin, which is annoying.

Do yours need sealing, or is your fit perfect enough to stop leaks?

Russell.
 

Texatdurango

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Is there any reason we can't user silicone as a glue when putting them together? You would be amazed at what silicone will hold.
The idea behind this type of mold is the ability to disassemble the sides once the resin has cured, allowing the block of resin to be removed from the mold.

Gluing the sides would not work.
 

PenAffair

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The idea behind this type of mold is the ability to disassemble the sides once the resin has cured, allowing the block of resin to be removed from the mold.

Gluing the sides would not work.

In those rare circumstances where the resin doesn't shrink away from the side and just fall out of the mould, I just turn it upside down & tap on the bench and it usually slides right out. This is with Polyester resin. No mould disassembly required.

Russell.
 

Texatdurango

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I've been using some cutting board moulds like this for a while, but I'm unhappy with the fit, as there is leakage through the cracks between each of the pieces. Maybe my saw just won't cut straight. I've resorted to sealing the gaps with wax, which works fine, and also helps the blank slip out when set, but it does need refreshing occasionally as some wax comes out with the resin, which is annoying.

Do yours need sealing, or is your fit perfect enough to stop leaks?

Russell.

The cutting boards I use have a tiny pebble finish to them. After cutting to size I ran my pieces through a thickness planer to remove the pebble finish.

I am left with a very flat surface on the bottom as well as all sides and after screwing the mold together have zero leaks. Planing the pieces probably makes the difference. I'm pretty sure Curtis planed his too because that's where I got the idea.

Perhaps it is this very flat surface that prevents me from simply rapping the mold on the bottom to knock the finished piece out like you do. Or perhaps it's the time in the mold, from pouring the mold to cutting blanks on the bandsaw, I probably take 30 minutes.
 
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PenAffair

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The cutting boards I use have a tiny pebble finish to them. After cutting to size I ran my pieces through a thickness planer to remove the pebble finish.

I am left with a very flat surface on the bottom as well as all sides and after screwing the mold together have zero leaks. Planing the pieces probably makes the difference. I'm pretty sure Curtis planed his too because that's where I got the idea.

Perhaps it is this very flat surface that prevents me from simply rapping the mold on the bottom to knock the finished piece out like you do. Or perhaps it's the time in the mold, from pouring the mold to cutting blanks on the bandsaw, I probably take 30 minutes.

Could be. I don't have squaring gear. if it doesn't come of fthe tablesaw sqaure, I'm in trouble. I also leave the dimples on, which I think helps with removal, and mine sit for a week in the mould till it's properly dry (not by choice, just work stops me getting ti all done in one weekend usually).

Russell.
 

VisExp

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George it could also be because you are using alumilite. PR shrinks while curing so it pulls away from the sides of the mold. Alumilite doesn't shrink.
 

MesquiteMan

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Keith hit it on the head. PR shrinks quite a bit. Alumilite VERY little. I am not able to get my Alumilite castings out of a square mold without taking a piece of the mold off, no matter how hard I beat on it! The same reason PVC pipe will not work for Alumilite.

I no longer plane the pieces and I do not get leaks. The first time I use the mold, it might leak just a little but the Alumilite closes up the gaps and it no longer leaks.
 

el_d

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I use PR in my molds, have had pr leaks and the stuff sticking in the mold.

My solution for this was plain ol masking tape. I bought the thick 2 inch roll from the dollar store and wrapped the whole mold in it. Sides, bottom then sides again leaving the top open. Pour up my PR, let it set overnite, If I have a problem with it sticking just take out the screws and give it a whack on the table. The tape holds the mold together but gives it enough "play" for the resin to come out. Leave the tape on, screws back in and on to the next one. Best of all My wife dont beat me for leaving PR stains on the counter....:biggrin:
 

GouletPens

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Any reason why you can't use a mold release spray with Alumilite?

Florida Don
Thanks Curtis for posting this, I'm probably going to use it this week!

I read on Alumilite's site that you can use paste wax or something to help with releasing from the mold, I guess you put it on the mold before pouring? I haven't tried it yet but I want to.
 

MesquiteMan

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If you use the plastic cuttin boards that are sort of soft, then you will not need any type of release agent. I don't know my plastics so can't tell you which type of plastic. If it is the real hard, real white ones, they will not work without mold release. You still need to be able to take one end off even if you do decide to use a mold release.
 

GouletPens

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If you use the plastic cuttin boards that are sort of soft, then you will not need any type of release agent. I don't know my plastics so can't tell you which type of plastic. If it is the real hard, real white ones, they will not work without mold release. You still need to be able to take one end off even if you do decide to use a mold release.
Whatever cutting board I have is the real hard plastic. I just tried using some carnauba paste wax (aka bowling alley wax) and rubbed it on the inside of the mold before casting (alumilite). I still had to take the mold apart, but it was MUCH MUCH easier to get the casting off the mold, and there were no broken little chunks left on the mold. Try the wax, it helps!:biggrin:
 

MesquiteMan

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The boards I use a 1/2" thick and available at Sam's Club in 15x20" for $10+/-. The resin will not stick to this mold. I have no problem at all removing the casting without using any mold release. I have tried wax, silicone, and teflon in the past but it did not make enough of a difference to add another step to the process, not to mention wasting more chemicals into the environment. If you have a cutting board that is hard to cut on the table saw, ie, it chips some when cutting, then you certainly need a mold release. If, on the other hand, you have the cutting board that cuts like butter on the saw and that you can even trim with a knife, then you do not need a mold release unless you just really want to!
 

NewLondon88

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what about a cutting board that welds itself back together once you pass
the saw blade? The ones that leave little Cheetos on the edges?
 

NewLondon88

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Not the right kind of plastic. That is the one that it will stick to.

Yeah.. I found out. :frown:

BUT .. I stopped into my local machine shop and they had tons of scraps
of white plastic that they use for mockups. Slick as hell, and it obviously
machines beautifully. So I took the scraps. Looks like enough for molds..
and it reminds me of fake ice. You ever see those indoor 'ice' rinks that you
can use in the summer without plumbing? They just set the sheets down
on the floor and start skating on it..
 

MesquiteMan

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Ice rinks? What they hack are those? I thought the only kind of skates were inline or roller skates! Then again, I live in central Texas where we get measurable snow every 7 years on the average!
 

GouletPens

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what about a cutting board that welds itself back together once you pass
the saw blade? The ones that leave little Cheetos on the edges?
HAHAHA....I have some Cheeto molds myself. The paste wax helps tremendously with that kind. I've since kidnapped one of my wife's nice white cutting boards.....we'll see if she notices....tee hee....:eek:
 
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