Casting watch parts

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toyotaman

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Jun 24, 2010
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NW Georgia (USA)
It's in my future to try casting watch parts. Can someone explain the process a little. What kind of paint do you use on the tubes to make sure it doesn't run or come off during casting? Also, what do you use to bend the parts around the tube? Any other info would be helpful. I'm just getting into the casting vortex and I think the watch pens are awesome. What are some of the Do's and Dont's in making these things? Thanks for the info and help.
 
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gwilki

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May 20, 2007
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T: I've only done 6 successful ones, so others with much more experience may be able to shed more light.
I use no name spray lacquer on the tubes. I've never had it run. As for bending the parts, I simply drill out a small block of wood with a bit one size smaller than diameter of tube that I'm gluing the parts to. Then, I cut the block down its length, giving me two bending jigs. I just place the gear or whatever over the jig and use a transfer punch to push/bend it into the bore in the block. (I go with a bit one size small because I found that there is some bounce back on the pieces.) It took longer to type this than to perform the whole operations.
I've used both 5 minute epoxy and gel CA glue to glue the pieces onto the tubes. With epoxy, I coat a section of the tube, then push the pieces into it. It's messy, but as long as you use clear drying epoxy, it disappears when you cast the blank. With CA, I just put a small drop on the piece, and hold it onto the tube for the seconds it takes to set. This works well, but gluing your fingers to the piece is a real possibility, since the glue comes up through the openings in the gears. After doing that a couple of times, I went with a pick to hold the pieces in place.
Then, it's just putting the tube into a mold, casting it and turning it to the final size. On some pens where the thickness of the resin between the tube and the final size is small, you need to be very careful not to turn into the brass. After I blew up a couple, I made a point of not putting parts at the very end of the tubes. This way, I can taper down to the final dimension without worrying about turning gears.
I'm sure others have other ways of doing these, and you will be able to choose among them.
 

gingerwood

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Jun 10, 2009
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Bloomington, MN
I use fingernail polish for the base coat, bend the pen parts around a dowel until they have a good curvature, and a local bead supply store sells gears by the tubefull.
 

Autonoz

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Feb 7, 2012
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I used CA today and there is a white ring around all the glue spots. I have not even cast it yet, it showed up as the glue dried. Any ideas?
 

gwilki

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Did you use accelerator? If so - don't. If you didn't, I have no idea what caused it. Accelerator will cause it every time if you use too much.
 

bruce119

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Franklin, NC, USA.
Did you use accelerator? If so - don't. If you didn't, I have no idea what caused it. Accelerator will cause it every time if you use too much.

That's true too much accelerator can cause. But it will happen without useing accelerator. Just useing too much CA can do it and if your working in a humand enviroment that can do it. There are sooooooo many varables.

One thing to try is too scrap off (if you can with out chipping the paint you did powder coat didn't you) the white powdery stuff.

It's a lot of fun

Good Luck
Bruce
 

Autonoz

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No accelerator butprobably to thick of glue. I used testors paint and will probably try painting over the white rings.
 

toyotaman

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I use fingernail polish for the base coat, bend the pen parts around a dowel until they have a good curvature, and a local bead supply store sells gears by the tubefull.

Mickie, any chance the bead store has a web site? That would be alot easier than looking through boxes and hitting yard sales.
 

gingerwood

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I use fingernail polish for the base coat, bend the pen parts around a dowel until they have a good curvature, and a local bead supply store sells gears by the tubefull.

Mickie, any chance the bead store has a web site? That would be alot easier than looking through boxes and hitting yard sales.

I use Beadniks Beadniks Bead Stores, Beading Classes, Handmade Beaded Jewelry, Bead Parties and Events - Don't Worry Bead Happy
But then their MoA store is only 3 miles from my house, I don't know if they sell over the web.

Before I found them, I bought some off e-bay, which worked well. Just search for watch gears, or possibly steampunk watch gears.
 

Justturnin

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Aug 19, 2011
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Houston, Tx
I tried one and used black spray paint that I thought was good. It was a Rustolium Industrial. I used thin CA to glue the parts. I to got the white around the parts where the CA pooled, no accelerator. then once cast the paint bubbled up like you wouldnt believe. I have since bought some black nickle tubes to try out and will be using some 5 min epoxy in small amounts to glue the parts on.

do a search on Ebay for Steampunk and it will yeild TONs of results. They are sold by the gram or ounce.
 

toyotaman

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Thanks, maybe others will specify the type of paint used so it will not be a disaster when I make one. I checked e-bay and most packs of parts doesn't include any watch faces with the parts. Just gears. I will keep looking.
 

PTsideshow

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Dec 26, 2011
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Macomb County Michigan
Hobby Lobby has packs of assorted sized and color watch faces, so far they are all the same assortment they are in the scrapbook section. the 40% off coupon makes them a nice buy. They don't have on line ordering.
You can check any of the scrapbooking sites or local stores.
:clown:
 

truckfixr

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Aug 19, 2008
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Jourdanton, Texas
Just a word of caution. Make certain to allow more than enough time for the CA to cure before you cast. Usually a couple of days when using thin CA. Quite a bit longer with medium. CA will outgas when cast in the resin if it hasn't cured completely, and will bubble like crazy.
 

Dai Sensei

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Jan 14, 2009
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Gold Coast Queensland Australia
I use a thin layer of black polymer clay on the tube, then simply press the watch parts in, no messy glue. After baking the clay I spray with acrylic clear coat before casting.
 

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corian king

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Dec 14, 2009
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chesapeake va
I have done around 50 of these.I'm not saying my way is the right way.Its just the way I do it.I will cover the tube with either carbon fibre or I will raid my wifes scrape material box and use that.The carbon fibre comes in rolls so you won't have a seam.If you use material you can over lap it a little and just make sure you place the watch over part of the seem and other parts over the rest of the seam.You won't see it.After that dries I start with the face and put some medium CA on blank and press the face into it.Keeping pressure on it for about 30 seconds.I just do the same thing for the rest of the pieces.Then I let it set at least 24 hours before casting.
I round over the rough edges on the blank on my belt sander before I turn.
Have fun! Happy turning!
 
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