Cast-Right Kickstarter campaign

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jttheclockman

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To be fair. Cap G was not the first. Nor was Barry Gross.

Who was the first Ed??
I did not even know Barry Gross cast that way.



All I know is I learned from CaptG and he helped me alot. Back in 2010 I had the opportunity to write an article for Woodturning Design magazine after one of the editors saw one of my copper braided cast pens. He wanted a detailed article of how I make these and if i did go ahead I would have had to reveal the method of casting. I chose not to do the article in respect for CaptG and his method. But my point is if I had done that article back then this method of casting would be even more wide spread. Maybe someone would have come up with a kit a whole lot sooner.
 
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brownsfn2

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I think the unique part of Jim's design is the cap part that holds the stopper in the top of the blank. It is a cool idea and neat design. I would wonder though after multiple uses if PR would build up on it too much and be difficult to clean off and allow resin to pass through the holes. I think an improvement would be to make that part out of stainless steel so you can pull them out and drop them in acetone to clean them after each casting. That would be cool. (Jim I will need a penny per unit for idea compensation if you make the change) :)

I cast upright just slightly differently than this. I picked up all I needed to know to get started off of searching the forums and then a couple of conversations with Seamus (Great Guy!). If anyone really wanted to figure out how to do it without buying a system they could. Buying the kit just makes it easier to get started.
 

jttheclockman

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I think the unique part of Jim's design is the cap part that holds the stopper in the top of the blank. It is a cool idea and neat design. I would wonder though after multiple uses if PR would build up on it too much and be difficult to clean off and allow resin to pass through the holes. I think an improvement would be to make that part out of stainless steel so you can pull them out and drop them in acetone to clean them after each casting. That would be cool. (Jim I will need a penny per unit for idea compensation if you make the change) :)

I cast upright just slightly differently than this. I picked up all I needed to know to get started off of searching the forums and then a couple of conversations with Seamus (Great Guy!). If anyone really wanted to figure out how to do it without buying a system they could. Buying the kit just makes it easier to get started.

I do not use a top ring and do not think it is needed at all. The tube will stay in the center easily. Your eye can get it centered pretty easily.
 

socdad

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I took a look at making my own and decided to order the Cast-Right system. My order was quickly delivered, with two top and no bottom pieces of the casting rack. The error was quickly and completely corrected with one phone call, I now have two complete casting racks. Just finished casting several feather blanks; in the pressure pot for the night. I'll take a look tomorrow evening …
 

socdad

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First attempt ... I have not trimmed to length and they took a bit longer to cure than usual, likely to the room temp. One casting was a bit off center, I didn't set the cap firmly enough. I'm sold on the system ...

IMG_0091.jpg
 

JohnU

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yea, I made my own also back in 2010 from some scrap 1/2" plywood and 1" forstner bit after talking with Capt. G. Thousands of blanks later I'm still using the same rack and process. All you need is Plywood, delrin rod for bases and some stainless wire to curl around the top of the tube and stick in the silicone plug to hold it center if your worried about the blank leaning. I placed my holes closer and get 36 tubes in the rack at one time. Other than the set up, all you need is silicone plugs and clear tubes and a case of them last a long time. Good luck on the sales. I'm sure there are those not set up to make their own and wont spend the time to do it themselves.
 
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Skie_M

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One thing I'm not quite clear on ....


I understand that the plastic mold body sleeve is "consumable" ... it stays on the molded item and gets turned off (destroyed) as you work, and is not reusable.


What I don't understand is .... where are the replacement tubes?????

How is someone supposed to make "hundreds of blanks" with this system if they only get 16 or 32 tubes???

Even if they ordered the maximum option for both sets, there's nothing in there about extra tubes. What do they do when the run out???


Why was there no attempt at making this system with a REUSABLE mold system???? If something like that were in place, I'ld have already dumped 100 bucks into this kickstarter.
 

adirondak5

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What's the website to look at purchasing?


www.cast-right.com


One thing I'm not quite clear on ....


I understand that the plastic mold body sleeve is "consumable" ... it stays on the molded item and gets turned off (destroyed) as you work, and is not reusable.


What I don't understand is .... where are the replacement tubes?????

How is someone supposed to make "hundreds of blanks" with this system if they only get 16 or 32 tubes???

Even if they ordered the maximum option for both sets, there's nothing in there about extra tubes. What do they do when the run out???


Why was there no attempt at making this system with a REUSABLE mold system???? If something like that were in place, I'ld have already dumped 100 bucks into this kickstarter.

You can buy extra tubes

https://www.cast-right.com/products/16-clear-casting-tubes-sierra-system

https://www.cast-right.com/products/32-clear-casting-tubes-jr-system
 

JohnU

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I'm not sure what the hole size is to fit his system but I would cut out the middle man and get them online from the manufacturer - Visipak Clear Plastic Tubing Manufacturer | VisiPak A case goes a long way and you cut them to length with scissors. From his cropped picture on his link for tubes it appears he gets them there also.

I use the 7/8" tubes for casting all tube sizes. That way I can reuse my delrin bases and just change the size of the silicone plugs to fit the brass tubes I'm using. For solid color casting I bought a case of plastic caps from Visipak to put on the bottom of the tubes. They pop right off and are reusable.
 
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jttheclockman

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I'm not sure what the hole size is to fit his system but I would cut out the middle man and get them online from the manufacturer - Visipak Clear Plastic Tubing Manufacturer | VisiPak A case goes a long way and you cut them to length with scissors. From his cropped picture on his link for tubes it appears he gets them there also.

I use the 7/8" tubes for casting all tube sizes. That way I can reuse my delrin bases and just change the size of the silicone plugs to fit the brass tubes I'm using. For solid color casting I bought a case of plastic caps from Visipak to put on the bottom of the tubes. They pop right off and are reusable.

John you and I got the same info from CaptG he was a good teacher. I still have a ton of tubes and probably never use them all in my life time:) But a cheap way out.
 

ssalvage

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I'm not sure what the hole size is to fit his system but I would cut out the middle man and get them online from the manufacturer - Visipak Clear Plastic Tubing Manufacturer | VisiPak A case goes a long way and you cut them to length with scissors. From his cropped picture on his link for tubes it appears he gets them there also.

I use the 7/8" tubes for casting all tube sizes. That way I can reuse my delrin bases and just change the size of the silicone plugs to fit the brass tubes I'm using. For solid color casting I bought a case of plastic caps from Visipak to put on the bottom of the tubes. They pop right off and are reusable.

John you and I got the same info from CaptG he was a good teacher. I still have a ton of tubes and probably never use them all in my life time:) But a cheap way out.


What wall thickness did you order, thin, medium, or heavy? I would think the heat generated with PR might cause some problems, at least for the thin. ???
 

jttheclockman

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I'm not sure what the hole size is to fit his system but I would cut out the middle man and get them online from the manufacturer - Visipak Clear Plastic Tubing Manufacturer | VisiPak A case goes a long way and you cut them to length with scissors. From his cropped picture on his link for tubes it appears he gets them there also.

I use the 7/8" tubes for casting all tube sizes. That way I can reuse my delrin bases and just change the size of the silicone plugs to fit the brass tubes I'm using. For solid color casting I bought a case of plastic caps from Visipak to put on the bottom of the tubes. They pop right off and are reusable.

John you and I got the same info from CaptG he was a good teacher. I still have a ton of tubes and probably never use them all in my life time:) But a cheap way out.


What wall thickness did you order, thin, medium, or heavy? I would think the heat generated with PR might cause some problems, at least for the thin. ???


7/8" thin wall. Not sure which of these numbers is stock number but that is what is on the box. #405727 or #377896. I got those in 2009 and have quite afew more left. 213 pieces in a case 4 feet in length. I cut mine to length on my scrollsaw Have no issues with heat and in fact I stick then in toaster oven to complete curing. here is an example of some blanks made like this.




 

JohnU

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I order a case about three times a year and have always gotten medium thickness in fear of the tube getting weak under heat. I cut them with standard kitchen scissors. Good to know the thin worked for you JT. Maybe next time I'll try that.
 

jttheclockman

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I order a case about three times a year and have always gotten medium thickness in fear of the tube getting weak under heat. I cut them with standard kitchen scissors. Good to know the thin worked for you JT. Maybe next time I'll try that.


You mean to tell me you go through 3 cases a year:eek::eek::eek::eek:

OK I am going to do the math here.

213 pieces /case at 4 feet a tube. ( I cut mine at 3-3/4" but will call it 4" for easier math:))

48" / 4" = 12 pieces X 213 = 2556 pieces X 3 = 7668 pieces

Now that is a lot of casting. Maybe the medium does not have as many in a case but still even half as many is more casting than I will do in 10 years. No I checked same 213 pieces. John you must get resin by the drum:):):)

Good for you. Happy casting.
 

JohnU

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I dont always use up that third box by the end of the year but I usually pour twice a week on average. I play a lot with alumilite and other material but yes it's like a second job.
Too bad they don't all turn out. Lol
 

jttheclockman

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I dont always use up that third box by the end of the year but I usually pour twice a week on average. I play a lot with alumilite and other material but yes it's like a second job.
Too bad they don't all turn out. Lol


John that still is alot of casting. That is like a job. I am retired now and no way I want a job ever again.:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: Like I said I bought that case in 2009 and I am good for another 5 years easily.

How does the alumilite work with this type set up?? I have strickly been using Silmar 41.
 

Terredax

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To be fair. Cap G was not the first. Nor was Barry Gross.

Who was the first Ed??
I did not even know Barry Gross cast that way.


Vertical casting has been done for decades.
I believe buttons are still made with vertical casting by some manufacturers.
The resin is cast in long lengths, think 10', and then after being knocked out, they run through a slicer to be cut to the desired thickness.
There is more to the process to finish the slices into buttons, but that can be searched.

Research Bakelite and Catalin. Their rods were cast vertically. The process is still used in other countries that still manufacture Bakelite.

Model makers use vertical casting and use vent holes for escaping air, along with vibration to help the air escape from the small areas to be replaced with the resin for a solid cast without voids.

There are many things in life that is new to a group, i.e. pen makers, but has been done for many years before it was discovered by someone else to be recycled as a new idea.

We used to use a slightly more sophisticated set-up for vertical casting 25 years ago, at a manufacturer I worked for, and it's still being used today.

Something new, isn't always new, but rather just new to the individual(s) that recycled the idea.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
 

jttheclockman

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Merry Christmas John and thanks for the history behind casting and I bet there is more to it than even what you wrote. There are many things we discover as you say as pen turners that has been around for many years such as turning a piece of wood to make a pencil.

But the point to that question that you highlighted was pointed at a certain person and had to deal with this site alone. Who or which pen turner rediscovered vertical casting here on this site?? Not that it matters. We all benefited from it. :) Have a great day.
 

JohnU

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How does the alumilite work with this type set up?? I have strickly been using Silmar 41.

Alumilite works just fine. I've done solid pours and embedded objects this way with great results. The character with the swirls are not like a dish mold where they can be manipulated a little easier, but still nice, just different.
 

brownsfn2

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Really John? Embedded objects in Alumilite with no air bubbles? I did not think it would work. I guess I need to try it at some point.

Although it takes me about 10 minutes to pour all of the tubes full on one plate of casting. Not sure if there is enough time to do that with alumilite. ;)
 

jttheclockman

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Really John? Embedded objects in Alumilite with no air bubbles? I did not think it would work. I guess I need to try it at some point.

Although it takes me about 10 minutes to pour all of the tubes full on one plate of casting. Not sure if there is enough time to do that with alumilite. ;)


Ron I am pretty sure he is using pressure thus the shape of the stand. The time factor is what would concern me the most. I can not work that fast.:)
 
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JohnU

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Really John? Embedded objects in Alumilite with no air bubbles? I did not think it would work. I guess I need to try it at some point.

Although it takes me about 10 minutes to pour all of the tubes full on one plate of casting. Not sure if there is enough time to do that with alumilite. ;)


Ron I am pretty sure he is using pressure thus the shape of the stand. The time factor is what would concern me the most. I can not work that fast.:)

Lol, I don't fill the rack with alumilite. I usually keep it around 8 half tubes or 6 less or 4-6 full sized blanks. I pour a lot of Sierra sized alumilite blanks. Also, Embedded like pine cones and pods but definitely under pressure. I don't use alumilite with brass tube casting but I'm planning on using it on my next watch part blanks. The last summary pour melted and distorted the images on my watch faces over the long period of time it took to set.
 
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