"Phoenix" Blanks (WTD Article)

[holmqer]

In the latest Woodturning Design there was an interesting casting article about taking stuff like rice, sawdust, spices etc. and making blanks from them with Minwax Wood Hardener.

Two aspects of this were especially interesting, first the use of 2x4s to make the molds, and second, the use of a press to keep the small stuff from floating.

I wonder if the same technique could be used with PR if one adjusted the times that one keeps the blank under pressure in the vise. I doubt there is enough open time for Alumilite.

 

[sbell111]

When I cast something like coffee beans, I place a piece of UHMW on top of the mold in so the beans can't float out. I then place the mold into my pressure pot and place a few small weights on top (just in case). Once the PR has hardened, I knock down my mold and pop off the UHMW piece.

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

I'm gonna try that thing in Woodturning Design today.

 

[sbell111]

Originally posted by 1JaredSchmidt

I'm gonna try that thing in Woodturning Design today.

I'm going to buy the mag on the way home.

 

[sbell111]

OK, I bought (and read) the magazine. I doubt that the method would work with PR. I suspect that you would end up with bubbles and I'm not sure how you could clamp the PR without making a big old mess.

 

[holmqer]

So is the Minwax Wood Hardener working more like a glue than a casting material in this method? Upon further thought, it did strike me that by following this method with PR, one would have very little PR to provide any structure to the blank.

 

[sbell111]

Originally posted by holmqer

So is the Minwax Wood Hardener working more like a glue than a casting material in this method? Upon further thought, it did strike me that by following this method with PR, one would have very little PR to provide any structure to the blank.

I agree. The blank would only be as strong as the material being 'cast', rather than gaining a significant amount of strength from the PR.

 

[ElMostro]

Originally posted by holmqer

So is the Minwax Wood Hardener working more like a glue than a casting material in this method? Upon further thought, it did strike me that by following this method with PR, one would have very little PR to provide any structure to the blank.

The main purpose for the Minwax wood hardener is just to keep the material together so that it does not crumble while you are drilling the hole for the brass tube. What keeps the blank together in order to turn it is the CA you apply once you have cut off the sides of the 2x4 mold. Cutting the mold's sides exposes the edges of the blank where you apply CA on those exposed areas and the blank will soak it up (just make sure it is the thin CA and that you have plenty CA). The CA is what holds the blank together, you are basicly turning a CA blank with stuff in it but since the material is compressed you don't end up with areas that only have CA; so do not expect blanks to turn out like "Amalgam-Mutts" ot "Hybrids" or "Worthless" since the CA will not fill the gaps. If while turning you notice any voids on the blank just drop some more CA in/on the void then take some of the shavings from under the lathe and stick them in the void.

 

[RichAldrich]

I liked your article. It provides interesting alternatives.

Thanks Rich

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

I tried it with some sawdust I had laying by my lathe,and it worked! I turned it a little soon but otherwise it worked. Used a little bit of thick CA glue.