Wobble in my headstock! HELP!!!!

[truckerdave]

I have the Jet 1014 mini-lathe. I started to notice problems with my turnings and later noticed a "wobble" with my Nova Chuck mounted.

Using the article from the IAP library, (MANY THANKS for the library!), I was able to take the head stock apart and found that one of the bearings was extremely difficult to spin. I found a local bearing seller and purchased both the inner and outer bearings for $12.52.

I put it back together in 20 mins! Problem solved, right? WRONG!!!

The "wobble" is still there!!!:at-wits-end:

Can anyone help me figure out what else might be wrong?

Or am I looking at a new lathe?

 

[Paul in OKC]

Make sure there is no dust or debri on the spindle and face where the chuck screws up to. Other wise.....? You may need to unscrew the jaws so they come off and clean the scroll. Hard to say with out seeing in person.........if the jaws are bolt on, again check for shavings or ? underneath.

 

[truckerdave]

I cleaned all the areas around the head stock while it was disassembled.

The Chuck has been likewise disassembled and cleaned with a wire brush.

 

[robutacion]

If I understand it correctly, the Nova chuck that you have installed on you headstock, has started wobbling or, you just installed it and is wobbling, right...???

It would be great if you could tells us, what type/model chuck you have (G3...???), if you using an insert on the back of the chuck to match the headstock shaft thread...!

Is this just starting...???

The wobbling is more common than you may think, it shouldn't happen but it does, too damn often, I know, my Nova G3 chuck, has been a problem since I bought it years ago. It all comes from the bushing quality, accuracy and sitting position, when fully inserted on the lathe. Any chuck that has the matching thread of your lathe, will always be a lot more accurate.

This wobbling is "normally" resolve by using a specially made plastic washer, that is installed over the lathe shaft, you then screw the chuck in and tight it but not too excessively. These washers are also made to stop the chuck to over tighten and get jammed pretty bad...!

Now, where can you buy these washers, any woodturning supply shop, should have them or get them for you, I advise that you buy a few extra as they will need to be replaced when the wobble starts again, this is normally because, there was a bad catch and that made the chuck to overtight and damage the plastic washer, and that will cause the chuck to get out of spinning alignment, again...!

I hope this helps but, some pics of what you've got, always help...!

Good luck...!

Cheers
George

 

[low_48]

Pretty sure this is a known issue with Nova chucks. Is the shoulder of the adapter tight against the shoulder of the head stock shaft? I'm thinking that some of them did not get all the way back to the shoulder and were just wobbling on the threads. If you Google "Nova chuck wobbles" you'll see that you aren't the only one. It's not a head stock issue!
Edit; I did some reading on that issue. Quite a few bought the Nova chuck and insert at Woodcraft. Seems Woodcraft was selling aftermarket thread inserts and they are poor quality. Some did not fully seat , others had runout. Might be interesting reading for you.

 

[truckerdave]

I have the plastic washer and the wobble is present with the Nova G3 and my Wood river (cheaper model), but the wobble is also there when I insert a spur drive dead center. Even with nothing attached to the headstock, the wobble is still there.

Is it possible that the ?spindle is bent slightly? The lathe is well used and not exactly new. I have been trying to turn larger items on it the last few years. Is it possible to bend it?

 

[George Watkins]

if the wobble is there without the chuck you can rule that out.

is the wobble there with a spindle between centres?

are the motor pulleys in line with the shaft, is the belt worn/jagged on the edges?

remove the belt and run the motor, is it smooth and sounds o.k?
while the belt is removed- rotate the spindle by hand and feel for notchy-ness or tight spots

have you got a faceplate? if so try putting the faceplate on and standing at the tailstock end (you might be best to slide the tailstock off the bed) looking at the headstock :hold each side of the faceplate and pull and push, is there any front to back movement?
with the plate still on: try a twisting force (right hand forward left hand back & vice versa) and see if there is any knocking or play?

hope this helps

 

[Wildman]

Hate to say it but your new bearing might be the problem. Looking at parts place online lathe takes 6005vv front & 6004vv back bearing. Found depending on brand come un sealed/shielded or sealed.

I would buy some better quality sealed RS or shielded ZZ ABEC 3 or 5 rated bearings.

Good lick with it!

 

[steve worcester]

First, don't use a washer between the headstock and anything, the lathe wasn't designed for that, nor any chucks you attach.

What you need to determine is where the "wobble" is. Ideally you need a magnetic base and a dial indicator to determine runout at the spindle. Without real measurements, it is all conjecture.
Personally I recommend everyone have one in there woodshop.

Something like this s cheap and precision enough to work
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1593&category=1319044103

They take a little fiddling to get setup, and you have to take the measurement off of a flat spot on the spindle that is free of burrs. The amount of runout that the machine has and what you think are acceptable are subjective. Sometimes people tell me they have .0010" runout and that is awesome for woodturning since the wood will move more than that while you are turning.

 

[low_48]

I have the plastic washer and the wobble is present with the Nova G3 and my Wood river (cheaper model), but the wobble is also there when I insert a spur drive dead center. Even with nothing attached to the headstock, the wobble is still there.

Is it possible that the ?spindle is bent slightly? The lathe is well used and not exactly new. I have been trying to turn larger items on it the last few years. Is it possible to bend it?

So it used to be perfect? With the chuck and drive spur as well? Then it went bad? It could only be the bearings, or some issue with the casting. No way to bend the shaft, unless you dropped it. I suggest you take it to a machine shop and have it analyzed.

 

[JD Combs Sr]

First, don't use a washer between the headstock and anything, the lathe wasn't designed for that, nor any chucks you attach.

What you need to determine is where the "wobble" is. Ideally you need a magnetic base and a dial indicator to determine runout at the spindle. Without real measurements, it is all conjecture.
Personally I recommend everyone have one in there woodshop.

Something like this s cheap and precision enough to work
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1593&category=1319044103

They take a little fiddling to get setup, and you have to take the measurement off of a flat spot on the spindle that is free of burrs. The amount of runout that the machine has and what you think are acceptable are subjective. Sometimes people tell me they have .0010" runout and that is awesome for woodturning since the wood will move more than that while you are turning.

Ditto on getting yourself a measuring tool. Everything is guess work until you do.

 

[wyone]

My jet 1014 came with a nylon washer for the headstock. I am thinking a bearing issue that does not show up until the load is put on the lathe. I agree about the check of the runout with and without the chuck and other things on it.

 

[truckerdave]

I have the plastic washer and the wobble is present with the Nova G3 and my Wood river (cheaper model), but the wobble is also there when I insert a spur drive dead center. Even with nothing attached to the headstock, the wobble is still there.

Is it possible that the ?spindle is bent slightly? The lathe is well used and not exactly new. I have been trying to turn larger items on it the last few years. Is it possible to bend it?

So it used to be perfect? With the chuck and drive spur as well? Then it went bad? It could only be the bearings, or some issue with the casting. No way to bend the shaft, unless you dropped it. I suggest you take it to a machine shop and have it analyzed.

Yes, it used to be perfect. When I pulled the bearings, the inside one was almost impossible to to spin. I replaced the factory bearings with bearings that had the same specs as the original ones, shielded and sealed. I never dropped the spindle during this process.

If it is the casting, I suppose there is no way to fix that.

 

[Sylvanite]

I'd pull the spindle out again, check the bearings, clean everything, and carefully put it back together. If the bearings have a problem, or if they didn't seat properly, or if there's any dirt in the way, then wobble could be the result.

Good luck,
Eric

 

[randyrls]

I agree with Eric; Dirt, grit, wood dust, etc is the ENEMY!!! Make sure you clean the bearing seats obsessively until they are squeaky clean. Also make sure there are no burrs on the seats. To seat the bearings, take an old bearing and grind it down on the outside round until it will easily slide into the seat, then use it to tap in the new bearing. A socket can also be used, but you want to press ONLY on the outside of the bearing. Hitting the center will damage the bearing. When you start tapping the bearing into place, you will hear a noticeable difference in tone when it is seated.

Hope this helps...

 

[wyone]

OK.. I HAVE to ask... What method did you use to install the bearing on the shaft? I only ask as I have changed more than I could count, and I witnessed too many others installing bearings by pressing on the OUTSIDE rim of the bearing. This essentially detroys the bearing race. Have to either press on the inner rim or using heat and cooling.

Just a thought..

 

[Curly]

You've changed the bearings, and I assume you knew what you were doing and cleaned everything up before reassembly and they are seated properly. The fact that the problem didn't go away leaves the shaft as a possible problem. The dial indicator test already mentioned will tell you how much the shaft is bent, and yes you could have bent it by turning large heavy out of balance objects on it or something falling on it, not likely but possible. A quick check to show a gross error is to, while the shaft is turning slowly, touch a pencil to the inside of the morse taper very slowly until it just touches and stop. If the mark is only on one side, it is bent, if all the way around it isn't.

 

[truckerdave]

You've changed the bearings, and I assume you knew what you were doing and cleaned everything up before reassembly and they are seated properly. The fact that the problem didn't go away leaves the shaft as a possible problem. The dial indicator test already mentioned will tell you how much the shaft is bent, and yes you could have bent it by turning large heavy out of balance objects on it or something falling on it, not likely but possible. A quick check to show a gross error is to, while the shaft is turning slowly, touch a pencil to the inside of the morse taper very slowly until it just touches and stop. If the mark is only on one side, it is bent, if all the way around it isn't.

and if it is bent, can I buy a replacement part? Is so, from where?

 

[low_48]

I would still suggest you take the lathe somewhere to be looked at or fixed. I just can't imagine that the shaft was perfect, then it is bent. Did you turn something way out of balance? I can't imagine that the lathe would stay standing if you turned something so dramatic that it bent the shaft. The bearings are so close to the ends of the shaft, it would take a sledge hammer to bend it when it's inside the casting.
Make the belt slack and see if you can rattle the shaft around. Maybe you didn't tighten the hand wheel correctly after replacing the bearings? How easily did the bearings slide back into the headstock? Did you see any gall marks on the od of the old bearings? Maybe the bearing seized and spun in the casting? That's all I've got. I'm just not a fan of throwing replacement parts into something when you have no idea if it will fix it or not.

 

[wyone]

I am still thinking the bearing is the issue. Did it damage the shaft when it was so stiff? You say you bought bearings locally, but what kind of bearings are they? Are they exact matches? If you take the belt off, and put a lot of weight on the casting itself can you grasp the shaft and try moving it side to side? It should have ZERO slack side to side. end to end slack is normally not an issue, but side to side is.

 

[Wildman]

I still think new bearings the problem, ABEC ratings address run out not quality of the materials used to make bearings. Have no idea of the quality of your new bearings or if you damaged them or other components while installing. If still have a wobble something is wrong.

Would follow Mitch's advice and try to isolate the problem if that fails. Recommend calling or e-mailing Jet Tech Support and if need parts check with Jet first. (1-800-274-6846)

customerservice@jpwindustries.com

While think can buy bearings for less than both links would start with Jet first.

Jet MIDI Mini Lathe Replacement Bearings 1014 1220 1221 1015 Grizzly Delta ABEC3 | eBay

Jet JML-1014I Parts List and Diagram - (708375) : eReplacementParts.com

 

[truckerdave]

Thanks everyone for all the advice and help!

Unfortunately, The spindle is bent!!!

Fortunately, a replacement can be bought for $37.

Again, thanks everyone for the tips.

 

[wyone]

Well I am glad you figured out the issue. I am sort of shocked at that, as I cannot imagine the force needed to bend the spindle. But as long as that correct the issue, you now have almost a brand new lathe.. new bearings and new spindle.