what to wax your lathe bed with?

[Fish30114]

I've got a Nova DVR XP and it has a cast iron bed--pretty common, issue is I wet sand a lot especially when using micro-mesh, and my lathe bed rusts often--it comes off easily with some light sanding, but I'm searching for a long lasting protection--wax or other.

Recommendations/Input appreciated.

Thanks--Don

 

[RKB]

I clean it (my lathe bed) with wd40 and used sandpaper and then car wax it.

Rod

 

[flyitfast]

I use Johnson's Paste wax in the yellow can. Been using the same can for several years.
I also wax the bottom of the banjo and the bottom of the tailstock. Note: don't wax the parts of each that are used in locking them to the ways.
Wax on, wax off. Parts slide well and seldom have any rust
Suggestion, put a towel down below where you are wet micromeshing. Saves time.
Gordon

 

[duncsuss]

Regular MinWax furniture paste wax polish works, I apply it with steel wool then wipe off with paper towel.

When wetsanding, I use these to protect the ways (with a piece of paper towel to catch & hold the water). They are cheap, easy to put in place and remove, and store easily (I slap them on the side of my metal storage cabinet).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-Magnetic-Vent-Covers-MC815/100345609

 

[Charlie_W]

I have worked in a number of cabinet shops over the years..decades as well as my own shop and turning studios and have always used paraffin wax. Just rub some on and buff off with anything...paper towel, rag, newspaper, shavings. I do not cover the surface completely...just scribble some on. Paraffin works on many things such as tool tables, fences, bits, blades, car window channels, door latches, drawer runners, router bases, zippers, etc....
I keep a piece in the magnetic dishes on my tools as well as in my Turning smock pocket.
You can buy paraffin at the grocery store in the canning supplies section. 1lb box and cut into usable pieces.

On a separate note, use Beeswax for nails and screws for easier driving.

 

[Jim_K]

I wipe my bed and apply Super Slick Stuff after every use. I also cover it with plastic. Since I've been covering my cast iron woodworking tools with plastic it's really cut down on rust problems.

Jim

 

[magpens]

Would liquid paraffin oil be suitable for this purpose ... just thought of it ... easier to apply.

 

[Woodchipper]

Cover the lathe bed with an old towel before using MM or any wet dry/sandpaper.

 

[KenV]

Would liquid paraffin oil be suitable for this purpose ... just thought of it ... easier to apply.

Paraffin oil is another term for kerosene and similar distillates.

Hard to be much easier than a soft wax product.

 

[Fish30114]

Thanks Duncuss and KenV, I do put a towel down when I wet sand, but it being moist and on there for 20 mins to an hour is enough for it to rust up. I've tried Renaissance Wax, but it doesn't last very long--just looking for a longer lasting program.

 

[mark james]

Just what I do:

1. Wipe ways off.
2. Turtle Wax - Rubbing Compound (Red) - Heavy Duty
3. Wipe/clean off
4. Turtle Wax - Polishing Compound (Green) - Scratch Removal
5. Wipe/clean off
6. Paste Wax ( Any kind, but I have SC Johnson) - allow to dry
7. Wipe/buff

When I do this (2-3x/year), I always wonder why I don't do it more frequently. Honestly, I bought each tub 4 years ago - couldn't have been more than $12-$16 total and will last a lifetime. (or until they turn rancid).

EDIT: As mentioned above, I do put down a paper towel when wet sanding, or using a splashy oil sanding.

It takes about 15 minutes tops as I take the tailstock and the tool post off and blow compressed air to clean them off, then work on the ways. It is very quick, and at the end, I can push the tailstock with a little pressure and it will scoot all the way to the headstock!. Just make sure your tailstock and tool post bolts will clamp down tightly.

When I come back in 1-2 days to turn, the ease of the tool rest is amazing!

 

[Ed Stogsdill]

I lay wax paper on my lathe bed and hold it in place with thin magnetic tape. The tape comes in a roll and it is about 1/16" thick and 1" wide. Works great. I also leave it on when I buff to keep the Tripoli and white diamond off the lathe bed. I never use micro mesh any more. Sand to 800 then buff to polish.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app

 

[randyrls]

Cover the ways with a piece of "Fun Foam" or thick drawer protector. Fun foam is used for scrapbooking. It comes in 11" x 17" sheets for about a buck at any craft store. It willl not allow water to penetrate.

 

[wouldentu2?]

I use 1/4" plywood with a key of wood that sits between the bed rails.This keeps the water and CA off it.

 

[Curly]

Dog puppy pads/pee pads work well. A few magnets keep it in place and you have the option of tossing it or hang it to dry to use it again. Paste wax and/or paraffin canning wax work. Just don't use any furniture waxes like Pledge as many have silicone in them and you don't want that stuff in your shop.

Pledge does work very nicely on snow shovels to keep the snow from sticking though.

 

[Fish30114]

Thanks for that input, some great ideas here, I appreciate it much!

 

[greenacres2]

Most of my cast iron gets a coat of Boshield T-9 about once a year or so, if it begins to drag in between, a quick hit with Johnson's Paste Wax (yellow can).

I keep several 1/4" diameter rare earth magnets on the front of my lathe. Each will easily hold 3 7mm bushings (spacers). Before wet sanding, I grab a plastic shopping bag, tack the edges down with a few magnets and get to work. Actually, I put the bag in place before starting to finish--if I'm using CA I just place my used applicators right on the bag.

Love those little magnets!!
earl

 

[dogcatcher]

I use a block of paraffin and beeswax that has been melted and mixed. I do not wet sand on the lathe with water, I have a drill powered set up for that, the only wet sanding I do on the lathe is using ATF on acrylics.

 

[Herb G]

I use Slip-It silicone free compound. Wipe on, wipe off. Repeat monthly.
I use it on my tools & my tool rests also.

 

[rd_ab_penman]

Works great for me.

Les

 

[gtriever]

WD40 or DPL for me, followed by a light sanding if needed for stubborn spots, then wiped down and finished with a coat of Johnson Paste Wax.

 

[Fish30114]

Thanks for the continued input folks, I've had bad luck with Boe-shield T-9 it doesn't keep rust away worth a damn for me--Thanks though

 

[TonyL]

I was about to add to this post, but I use the Boe-shield T-9 stuff. I have not had any rust, but that has to be due to having a less-damp basement. I didn't know about applying wax; I am glad that I read this. Thanks folks!

 

[suefox51]

I use a non stick baking sheet , everything comes off it and nothing gets on the rails

 

[WriteON]

No wax for me ....I periodically apply a light coat of BreakFree to the bed.

 

[WriteON]

Cover the lathe bed with an old towel before using MM or any wet dry/sandpaper.

However watch that the towel does not catch the mandrel. I had one wrap around. .

Lately I have a Husky magnetic pan I place on the bed to catch the drips. Also I place a paper towel on the bottom of the pan.

 

[BeeAMaker]

#0000 steal wool and olive oil (EEVO), rub it in with the SW, wipe off. Leaves the ways silky smooth for months and protects them from rust for years.

 

[JPW062]

It isn't a surface that should be in contact with the wood, so...
RIG grease. I have one clean container for firearms and machining tools and other generally clean items. Another for woodworking and construction tools that are generally a little dirty.

Anything that wood touches gets renaissance wax. I'm not sure it is all that great a rust protectant, but it won't rub off on the wod causing me ahuge headache when I go to finish it later.