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Old 06-13-2018, 09:05 AM   #41 (permalink)
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
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Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
I have a question for you----- how are you making the angles that are the main part of the sled and how are you cutting them???
I am thinking (and feel free to correct me if I am wrong) of squaring the fence first then using my Osborne EB-3 miter gauge (verified with a digital protractor) to cut the three jig angles I think I am going to need - 30, 45. and 60.
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Last edited by GDIS46; 06-13-2018 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 06-13-2018, 11:44 AM   #42 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDIS46 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
I have a question for you----- how are you making the angles that are the main part of the sled and how are you cutting them???
I am thinking (and feel free to correct me if I am wrong) of squaring the fence first then using my Osborne EB-3 miter gauge (verified with a digital protractor) to cut the three jig angles I think I am going to need - 30, 45. and 60.
That is fine if you have it tuned in. Good luck with this project. Hope to see many segmented pens come out of your shop. Looking forward to them.
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Old 07-06-2018, 12:07 PM   #43 (permalink)
 
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Default Updated copy of the plans

Here is an update to the plans. I have yet to include the detailed plans for the five jigs that sit on top of the sled but will post them as soon as they are available. A PDF version is available if you email me at gdis46(at)gmail(dot)com.
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Old 07-06-2018, 12:16 PM   #44 (permalink)
 
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Default JPG files of the plans

Here are the JPG versions of the current plans.

Also, to clarify something. I have copyrighted the design so no one copies and sells this idea, however, I grant any individual the right to make one for their own use. Just don't sell it to make money on my design.
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salisbury-sled_page_1.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_2.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_3.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_4.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_5.jpg  

salisbury-sled_page_6.jpg  
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Old 07-06-2018, 12:37 PM   #45 (permalink)
 
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Are the T tracks on the angled components across the front or above the jig so the blade doesn't touch? A SawStop won't like them if they are low enough to cut. I know you've put a lot into the sled system but I'll stick to simpler and more buckshee methods. Do you plan to make a protractor head/adjustable fence to allow for nonstandard cuts?
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:55 PM   #46 (permalink)
 
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I am sorry but I will once again refer back to my post #33. From what I see you are betting on a lot of things to be dead on and I am not willing to take that bet. You also say you copyrighted it but you also need to explain how accurate your fence needs to be in line with that blade and all the other things we talked about. I wish you luck. Happy segmenting.
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Old 07-13-2018, 01:17 PM   #47 (permalink)
 
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1. Are the T tracks on the angled components across the front or above the jig so the blade doesn't touch? A SawStop won't like them if they are low enough to cut.

2. I know you've put a lot into the sled system but I'll stick to simpler and more buckshee methods.

3. Do you plan to make a protractor head/adjustable fence to allow for non-standard cuts?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. They are across the front but can easily be moved an inch back. You make a good point about SawStop and anyone making this sled should keep that in mind. When I get to the stage of building each jig, I will re-evaluate that. The reason I put it up front is that I was going to use these Woodpeckers Precision Woodworking 1-Inch #13-MLFSTOP Flip Stops. They are nice and compact and lend themselves well to this project.

2. Each to his own, Curly.

3. I thought about that first but liked the repeatability and accuracy of a fixed jig. I was planning on using a digital protractor so I could get repeatable cuts somewhat like a Dubby. With all respect to those of you who are in love with their Dubby sleds, this is not that animal. You can't trim a pen blank lengthwise with a Dubby sled but you can with this one.


Thanks for your input.
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Last edited by GDIS46; 07-13-2018 at 01:44 PM.
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Old 07-13-2018, 01:31 PM   #48 (permalink)
 
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Minor update to some of the drawings. Will post more as I progress. Also, here is an Excel file doing the math for Willian Ng's 5-Cut Method for squaring the rear fence.
Attached Thumbnails
salisbury-sled_page_1.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_2.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_3.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_4.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_5.jpg  

salisbury-sled_page_6.jpg   salisbury-sled_page_7.jpg  
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File Type: xlsx William Ng's 5 Cut Method.xlsx (13.8 KB, 4 views)
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Old 07-13-2018, 01:42 PM   #49 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDIS46 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curly View Post
1. Are the T tracks on the angled components across the front or above the jig so the blade doesn't touch? A SawStop won't like them if they are low enough to cut.

2. I know you've put a lot into the sled system but I'll stick to simpler and more buckshee methods.

3. Do you plan to make a protractor head/adjustable fence to allow for non-standard cuts?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. They are across the front but can easily be moved an inch back. You make a good point about SawStop and anyone making this sled should keep that in mind. When I get to the stage of building each jug, I will re-evaluate that.

2. Each to his own, Curly.

3. I thought about that first but liked the repeatability and accuracy of a fixed jig. I was planning on using a digital protractor so I could get repeatable cuts somewhat like a Dubby. With all respect to those of you who are in love with their Dubby sled, this is not that animal. You can't trim a pen blank lengthwise with a Dubby sled but you can with this one.


Thanks for your input.

Again not true. You are locked in on this sled and you have made it work for you. Good luck.
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