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Old 06-04-2018, 10:12 AM   #21 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by tomtedesco View Post
This looks a lot like the Dubby Sled I purchased at a wood show years ago. I use the sled for cutting segments and it works great.
Is there another version of the Dubby sled? I'm not seeing the similarity.
I think both versions would cut segments about the same way. I like mine FWIW.
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:17 AM   #22 (permalink)
 
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After reading all the comments it is clear to me that if you ask two woodworkers a question, you get four answers. LOL
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:29 AM   #23 (permalink)
 
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After reading all the comments it is clear to me that if you ask two woodworkers a question, you get four answers. LOL
I think in this case he is looking for suggestions to improve his idea. Will it work yes if he takes some of mine and others recommendations into his thought process. Is there a better way, well there are other ways and other sleds that maybe more economical in the long run and more versatile such as the Dubby sled. I have 2 sets of those and I still made dedicated sleds for some of the pen work we do. Making jigs can be half the fun sometimes.
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Old 06-04-2018, 02:54 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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The fifth answer- "Let me study it some more."
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:52 PM   #25 (permalink)
 
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I have been following this thread and I like the concept. Repeatable angular cuts with interchangeable inserts.....kind of cool.

I agree with a lot of what has been said.....
1. After hearing of the terrible accident, I can't help but believe a sled would have maybe helped. Accidents are primarily caused by kick backs which a TS is famous for. I too, have friend that lost three finger due to kickbacks. But I agree with JT...my shop has many dangerous tools, the one that scares me the most is a jointer. It would not only cut off your fingers but grind them into hamburger. IMHO a sled is a huge safety plus. Maybe even put a guard where the blade would emerge.

2. The t tracks are a good idea, but MUST be kept clean from build up of saw dust other wise your accuracy is gone. Please pull them back at 1/4 from the blade....as a saw stop owner that looks like money waiting to be thrown away on a new cartridge and blade.

3. A blank is relatively the same size....why not put the hold down on the opposite side? On the longer angles it will help with control and holding power.

4. I own a Dubby....have for years....it's a nice sled but nothing like this. It may perform similarly but not even close in design.

5. It looks huge....if it is dedicated to pen blanks why do you need so much space.

6. I like the repeatabity with insert idea, but it is imperative that the insert nestle into exactly the same place EVERY time, otherwise your repeatablity has gone out the window.

7. Do I understand this is based off of a Rockler jig as a base? Why not build your own. Search for William Ng on you tube and look at his sleds and reduce the size...As we all know Rockler doesn't give anything away for cheap! William Ng has some excellent ideas that have been tested to be correct by lots and lots of woodworkers.

Like I said I think the idea has some merit....and I agree with what has been said, there are multiple sleds out there that are very well designed and in use I might add.

This was posted many moons ago, by an awesome penmaker. Somewhere along the line, it was suggested to use angle guides for holding the pieces better, I have been using that modifaction for a long time.
Mini sled

I would take a photo of mine, but my wife is having a two weekend garage sale starting Thursday and any hope of getting to it is long since dashed!

Just my .02!
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Last edited by moke; 06-04-2018 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 06-04-2018, 09:17 PM   #26 (permalink)
 
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Personal preference I would make the base out of 3/4" and the jigs out of 1/2". If I see correctly this would give your knobs more securing pressure when tightening into 3/4" base. Look forward to see what else you come up with.
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:56 AM   #27 (permalink)
 
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If you already know this, my apologies in advance. - - Most, but not all miter slots are 3/4 inch wide by approx 3/8 deep. Measure yours to determine the size of the runner(s). The blade should be aligned to the miter slot and then the front and rear fences are aligned perpendicular to that.
A 3/4 base will leave you plenty of blade height for pen segmenting cuts. Unlike some, I make my sleds from 3/4 MDF instead of plywood since MDF is less likely to deform.

Good luck with your project, and post pics when it's finished!
I have a 10" JET Cabinet saw and am using two 18" adjustable Incra miter slot runners for this project. I was considering using MDF for the base but when I thought I should try to make it thinner for more blade height, I chose 1/2" baltic birch plywood for the base. I am now reconsidering using a 3/4" base per upon your input. I have never had baltic birch plywood deform in over 40 years of woodworking so I will probably stick with that.
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:59 AM   #28 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by jttheclockman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomtedesco View Post
After reading all the comments it is clear to me that if you ask two woodworkers a question, you get four answers. LOL
I think in this case he is looking for suggestions to improve his idea. Will it work yes if he takes some of mine and others recommendations into his thought process. Is there a better way, well there are other ways and other sleds that maybe more economical in the long run and more versatile such as the Dubby sled. I have 2 sets of those and I still made dedicated sleds for some of the pen work we do. Making jigs can be half the fun sometimes.
How about posting some pictures of segmented pens you have made with your dubby sled? I would love to see what it can do.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:36 AM   #29 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by moke View Post

1. Maybe even put a guard where the blade would emerge.

2. Please pull them back at 1/4 from the blade.

3. why not put the hold down on the opposite side?

4. I own a Dubby....It may perform similarly but not even close in design.

5. It looks huge....if it is dedicated to pen blanks why do you need so much space.

6. I like the repeatability with insert idea, but it is imperative that the insert nestle into exactly the same place EVERY time, otherwise your repeatablity has gone out the window.

7. Do I understand this is based off of a Rockler jig as a base? Why not build your own.

8. Search for William Ng on you tube and look at his sleds and reduce the size.
Thanks for the excellent feedback, Mike, from an old Iowa City boy.

1. There is a blade guard on the current version. See page 1 drawing.

2. I thought the rail should provide a zero clearance to avoid chip out. It is insulated electronically from the saw base. Will reconsider your suggestion.

3. Hold-downs on the opposite side would have to be secured to the sled, not on the jig. That limits the sled from being used for general purpose without jigs.

4. Thank you. The dubby isn't repeatable based upon a fixed reference point.

5. As the spec says, it is 16" x 20" so that is a medium size sled. I could make it smaller but that would limit it for general purpose woodworking. Will consider for final version.

6. I think the jigs are pretty much fixed when screwed down but maybe I should add some brass reference pins so it is 100% in the same spot every time.

7. It is not based on the Rockler mini-sled. It is built from scratch.

8. If you read the text on page 1 of the current drawing, you will see it references William Ng and his 5 cut method for aligning the rear fence.

Here are the latest versions of the plans which are now up to 3 pages:
Attached Thumbnails
ultimate-pen-segmenting-sled-upss-page1.jpg   ultimate-pen-segmenting-sled-upss-page2.jpg   ultimate-pen-segmenting-sled-upss-page3.jpg  

Last edited by GDIS46; 06-05-2018 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:21 AM   #30 (permalink)
 
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Personal preference I would make the base out of 3/4" and the jigs out of 1/2". If I see correctly this would give your knobs more securing pressure when tightening into 3/4" base. Look forward to see what else you come up with.
Based upon previous input, I am changing the sled's base spec to 3/4" but will retain 3/4" jig spec. The jigs need to be 3/4" for adequate support of the t-track.

FYI: my first design was a similar sled with a dubby style arm on the left with a digital readout for repeatability. The only jig it would have used was the one on the right for vertical trim cuts. I thought this fixed jig idea would be a better.
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