sprayer help

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JohnU

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Jan 31, 2008
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Ottawa, Illinois
I don't turn bowls but I have used lacquer on many projects over the years. About 15 to 18 years ago I bought a High-Volume Low-Pressure spray system. It was great with pre catalyzed lacquer spraying trim and furniture wood workings. Lacquer will dry very fast and adhere to itself very well with in a time limit making it easy and quick to layer several thin coats. I spent about $400 on that system and later met a guy who ran a traditional archery business making recurve and long bows. I was amazed how well his finish looked on his products and how well they held up in the weather. I've been shooting one of his bows for the past 12 years and it still looks great. His secret... spray cans of deft lacquer from the hardware store shelf.
 
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rherrell

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Aug 22, 2006
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Pilot Mountain, NC
I second the Deft spray cans. I have an HVLP gun that I use for big projects but if I can carry it with one hand it gets the Deft rattle can treatment. The only problem is my local Lowes stopped carrying it, does anyone know if ALL the Lowes stopped?
 

bobleibo

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Mar 15, 2007
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2,130
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Utah
I am also one who HAD a fancy spray gun with all the goodies. By the time I got it set up and then cleaned up, it was a pain in the rear. I have used the Valspar Spray Lacquer from Lowes for quite some time and am very happy with it. It dries quickly so multiple coats in a short time are possible. It's also easy to wet sand after it cures and get a very high gloss finish. Have not tried it on pens but use it a lot on my bowls and flat work. One thing is that if you spray it in colder weather, bring it in the house or somewhere warm to dry or it will remain tacky and never cure properly. I keep the cans somewhere warm for storage. Have not used the Deft but I am sure it works just as well.
Simplicity with results.....
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
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1,798
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webberville, mi
+1 on above comments. I have a couple HVLP guns and I use them - but only on larger projects. If I had a helper elf that would do cleanup for me, I would certainly use the gun more often, but I tend to be pretty anal when it comes to this process (which is a requirement when doing spray work) and it takes 15 minutes or so to set up and another 15-20 minutes for cleanup. And all that is with a respirator on - another requirement when working with lacquer. Too much time when I can just take a can outside.

That said, if the price is right, you might want to make the investment. Nice unit, I think.
 

MarkD

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Jan 24, 2011
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Sayre, PA
Great thread. I too have been looking at a HVLP gun for spraying lacquer. Based on the comments here I'm rethinking that idea.
 

Lenny

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Jan 6, 2009
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Searsport, Maine
I have a Wagner 8000 HVLP turbine and spray gun ... now you can buy just the hvlp guns for use with a regular compressor really cheap. I find for most projects it's easier to just buy the spray cans ... too much time cleaning the gun afterwards.
 

shastastan

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Jan 15, 2014
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N CA
I've gone through the same thought process that many of you have. I tried a gun with the compressor. I discovered that to do well with a spray gun you have to be set up with a booth, exhaust fans, respirator, etc..

I like Deft and used the brush method for years. The fumes are really strong though. I also had to bring stuff into the house to dry in the winter. I've also used the spray cans which work well outside if it's not too windy. The fumes are bad from the cans also. Deft is a very good and durable product.

I recently bought an Earlex hvlp system. I've only used it to spray latex on my lathe cabinet. If I finish on the lathe, I use Woodturners Finish. If I finish off the lathe, I use wipe on poly- usually 2 coats of satin and 1 gloss. The fumes from these hand-applied finishes are not bad at all and I bring things into the bathroom to dry overnight all the time. I really like the spray finishes, but if you are careful with the WOP you can get a nice finish without the hassle of cleaning a spray gun. Cleaning the gun usually takes me at least 3 times as long as it does to paint the project. YMMV
 

SteveG

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Dec 21, 2009
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Eugene, Oregon 97404
I will deviate from the general direction of this thread, as backed up by my personal experience over 18 years, using a Binks HVLP for high end custom furniture work and small item spray finish work. There is one caveat that makes what I say here work: I am strictly discussing the use of lacquer. The nature of this finishe is that the cured finish remains soluble to the solvent contained in the lacquer itself. This provides two very favorable results.
1. Each new or additional coat will melt into the existing coat, so that, in effect there are no "layers" of finish...each new coat slightly dissolves into the surface of the previous.
2. Minimal spray gun cleaning required. Some residue builds on the spray tip itself with use. This tip is easy to drop in a container of thinner and easily comes clean. All other components of the gun assembly are effectively 'self-cleaned" in that the solvent base of the lacquer keeps everything in liquid-lacquer form. The result is that I have only had to break down and clean the gun a few times in 18 years! Talk about low maintenance! That is about as easy as it gets. This self-cleaning effect works with lacquer, but I am not aware of any other finish that will work this way in a spray gun. I did not use pre-cat lacquer, and believe that it would not work the same, as the catalyst would kick in and start the curing process inside the spray gun. Final note:I have used the Deft rattle cans a few times when I did not have access to spray gun. It provided good results, but was very unsuitable for furniture work as it would not easily provide the build necessary for furniture. It is also a VERY expensive way to buy lacquer.
 

KenV

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Oct 28, 2005
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Juneau, Alaska.
William -- you might want to think about the airbrush -- but with the eye to use with acrylic products and colors for enhancements. The airbrush is optimal for small areas with many colors. The late departed David Nittmann was a real pros professional in use of an airbrush with turnings.

Lacquer -- unless you are headed to some special effects or some of the clear with color effects that Don Derry produces --- hard to beat the rattle can.
 

shastastan

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Jan 15, 2014
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N CA
@SteveG We were in Kauai last May. We stopped at Scotty's Music in Kalaheo where I bought an Imua ukulele. We really enjoyed our trip there with the great weather.
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
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121
Location
Plano Texas
For laquer, and the biggest tip being on this "gun" .5mm, would not work well. I have sprayed many a finish, but a gun with a 1.0 or a 1.2 would work better. You can use smaller, but it means reducing the finish with thinner, and maybe retarder. At that point you are in the realm of (layer thickness) of spray cans.

I feel there is a ratio of dollars to the quality of the finish. I started with a Sata mini and the best I have found is an Iwata LPH-80, about 10x what that airbrush costs.

Shooting and finish is an investment in either time or money.

You may be a able to get away with a HF minigun at $50, but the learning curve will be steeper than a Iwata LPH-80 with a 1.2 at $360 in adjustments to product, air volume and how quick you need to move the gun. And each different product will be different.

Or keep looking on eBay, assuming you have a compressor. You can shoot with "rattle cans" and sand back the orange peel. It works too, just takes more time between coats as you have to shoot a layer, let it dry, and sand.
Just takes a bit longer since the layers are thinner. Not all lacquers dissolve into previous layers as you would think. Nothing more frustrating than when dried all the layers peel up from the wood.
 
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