Spoiler Alert! Yet another 'What Lathe?' Thread

[gtriever]

The attached photo show my assembly/sanding table, which by coincidence is the ONLY place I have to set up a lathe. So, I need to be able to set a lathe up and then move it aside when I need the table for something else.

Here's the problem - I'm 67 years old and I have a bad back, combined with chronic cardiac issues that limit me to how much weight I can safely lift. That works out to around 40 - 50 pounds max. I've already had to give up building cabinets and the like. You see where I'm going with this.

I'd been looking at the Harbor Freight 10 x 18 lathe and several more in its class, but they're all 75 pounds plus. Then I came across the Shop Fox W1704 lathe, which weighs in at only 45 pounds. That might be doable. I'm aware of the shortcomings of that lathe; only 1/3 HP, only 8 x 12 (or 13, I've seen both specs), 3/4 x 16 TPI, and MT1. However I also see that it's variable speed. so, here's the skinny on it:

The things I'm interested in turning are small items such as pens, bottle stoppers, pocket watch cases, spindles for doll cabinets, and maybe some small salt and pepper mills (nothing over 8 inches). No bowls or cups... I also have zero equipment to repurpose (chucks, etc) so MT1 and 3/4 x 16 shouldn't be an issue that I can see, since MT1 and 3/4 x 16 items are available.

So after all that long-windedness, what say you, IAP members? Yeas or nays on the W1704?

 

[monophoto]

I started out on a ShopFox 1704, and I used it for two years before moving on to something else.

Its small (8x12), low powered (1/3hp), and uses MT1 accessories. Those are facts, not showstoppers. I has one speed range with about 700 r/min at the low end.

It is fine for pens, bottle stoppers, and other small items. The 8" swing is a bit of an exaggeration because the banjo chews up a good inch of space - 6" might be a better number. The 1/3 hp motor is larger than other mini-lathes, but it's still low powered - larger face-grain turnings are tedious because the lathe will try to stall, as is drilling holes larger than required for pen tubes, but you can still do a lot with it.

 

[leehljp]

I lived overseas when I started turning pens and as such, at that time the only way to get a pen lathe to Japan was in my suitcase. (2004) I bought a Taig lathe and some basic wood turning essentials, along with adapters for that Taig.

It is light enough and will allow turning of items up to about 3 inches in diameter. FYI, I bought a Rikon after about 18 months and I also had some shipping allowance to send the Rikon in a crate.

There are other versions of lathes similar to the Taig. Shurline is another, or at least it used to be available. I haven't looked at those in several years.

 

[Curly]

If you have some ceiling height you could put a winch in your shop to lift the lathe up to a high shelf and any thing else that is heavy too. Then you could get any new or second hand lathe you want. Actually having the lathe on top of a downdraft table is a good idea. A rail along the ceiling lets you use the winch anywhere along its length.

If you don't want to spend the $100 or so for the electric winch you could make or get a canoe lift for $30 to $50. Lift the lathe and tie it off until next time.

 

[jttheclockman]

Those weight numbers are with the tailstock and banjo attached so it will be less if you take those off when moving. You need to find a permanent place so that you do not need to keep moving. If you need table space they make those work-mates that fold up and out of the way. There are ways around things. I would not sacrifice the power of a little larger lathe.The heavier a lathe the less vibration you will have too and less movement when turning things. Has to be a better way. Good luck.

 

[Edgar]

Personally, I wouldn't be happy with any solution that requires frequent movement of a lathe - even one that only weighs 45 pounds or so, particularly when physical limitations also need to be considered.

Sure a small lathe can do the job for small projects, but a little heavier lathe and a little larger motor will also make the experience more enjoyable. I'm with those who suggest further analysis of your shop situation to try to find a better solution. If you'd like to post more info & photos about your shop, I'll bet some of the folks around here will offer some clever options.

 

[TonyL]

This doesn't answer your question directly, but would it change things if you can wheel the lathe and stand in and out of the room? No lifting, but wheels need to be added to both stands (possible stand height modification) and you need a another room to store the inactive equipment. Just thinking out loud.

 

[paramount Pen]

MT 1 may not be accurate

I bought that lathe in 09 and couldn't get my pens round with the mt1 tooling but if I used tooling for the 3/4 x 16 I had no problems. I couldn't get Shop Fox to fix or admit their tool had a problem. So I bought a new spindle and it had the same problem. Later a machinist confirmed the mt1 was bored at an angle. Shop Fox still won't admit their problem. The tail stock also wears out quickly. The same machinist rebuilt it with some revisions and its wearing good now. Shop Fox is a sister co. of Grizzly tools.

 

[gtriever]

I lived overseas when I started turning pens and as such, at that time the only way to get a pen lathe to Japan was in my suitcase. (2004) I bought a Taig lathe and some basic wood turning essentials, along with adapters for that Taig.

It is light enough and will allow turning of items up to about 3 inches in diameter. FYI, I bought a Rikon after about 18 months and I also had some shipping allowance to send the Rikon in a crate.

There are other versions of lathes similar to the Taig. Shurline is another, or at least it used to be available. I haven't looked at those in several years.

Here's small. I cobbled this together from a Chinese kit just to see if I could turn something. I actually managed some 3/4 x 6 inch stock on it... albeit rather sloooowly.




All you guys have given me some ideas, and some things to think about. Thanks for being considerate to the "new guy", with what has to be a well-worn subject.

 

[gtriever]

Good morning to everybody. I may have an idea, but have a question first:

Since I've never used a lathe, how "tippy" are they? In other words, if I wanted to build a stand, how wide should it be to give good support and how much lateral stress is there during turning?

 

[JimB]

Building a home made stand is simple and can be made from anything. Mine is made from 2x4's. Click the picture to get a better view. My lathe is a Jet 1014vs.


View in Gallery

 

[gtriever]

Building a home made stand is simple and can be made from anything. Mine is made from 2x4's. Click the picture to get a better view. My lathe is a Jet 1014vs.

Thanks, Jim.

Here's a quick drawing of an idea, based off of my sliding drill press table. For you experienced turners, can you give me drawbacks or design flaws?

 

[monophoto]

Since I've never used a lathe, how "tippy" are they? In other words, if I wanted to build a stand, how wide should it be to give good support and how much lateral stress is there during turning?

Lathe's aren't particularly 'tippy'. I assume that by 'lateral stress' you mean side to side - that's also not a particular problem.

The two problems you have to address with lathes are:
1. Vibration - a lathe is a very smooth machine when the workpiece is round, but roughing a blank to round causes lots of vibration. Obviously, the smaller the lathe, the smaller the pieces you can work on, and therefore the less vibration you have to deal with. Having the lathe bolted to a stand to prevent 'walking', and having something to give that stand weight, will minimize vibration. Many people just have a shelf below the lathe, and stack bags or boxes of sand on the shelf.

2. Catches - you will soon learn what catches are (everybody has them), and they cause a sudden, severe torque on the lathe that tries to tip the lathe toward you (or flip tools upward). Bolting the lathe to its bench is the best way to avoid tipping.

The bench doesn't have to be fancy. Mine has an edge-glued 2x6 pine top sitting on the metal substructure from an old gas grill (with wheels) so that I can easily move it around the shop. I have short lengths of 2x4 that are bolted to the top, and the lathe is then bolted to these 2x4s - that was done to elevate the height of the lathe and provide a bit more space under the machine. (Ideally, the headstock spindle of the lathe should be at elbow height with your arm at your side.)

The width of the bench must be at least enough to allow the feet to sit firmly on the top. Practically, however, you will appreciate additional 'laydown' space. If you are right-handed, having that space on the tailstock end will be more convenient. You will also need depth - the front of the lathe should be no more than a few inches from the front of the bench - you don't want the front edge of the bench limiting your movements with tools. How much space you need behind the lathe is a matter of personal choice - it's main purpose will be to collect shavings. Like many people, I have a tool rack on the back edge of my bench - that's fine but understand that it's dangerous to lean over the lathe to get a tool with the lathe running.

 

[gtriever]

Well, my problems are either solved or just beginning... :biggrin:

Wifey (LOML and SWMBO) took her mom home to Missouri today from a visit, and while she was on the road stopped in a store and came home with a HF 65345 10 x 18 Lathe to surprise me (and it did). After seeing it up close, I can repurpose a Ridgid Hercu-lift Table Saw stand that I was saving for another project, adding about 3 inches of pedestal to get the lathe to the proper height. I figure 4 laminated 12 x 32 pieces of MDF ought to do the trick.

Question for anybody who has or had one of these lathes: Do you know what size bolt is used to secure the Belt Tension lever? Thought I'd replace it with a ratchet-type positioning handle. I guess I could quit being lazy and just pull the thing and measure it.

Once again, thanks for all your help, guys. Much appreciated.