Sharpening systems - recommendations?

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rsk

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I’ve got a birthday coming up and it’s time to start thinking what I’m going to surprise myself with this year. I’m looking at sharpening systems and was wondering if anyone had any feedback or opinions on any of these systems?

Wolverine: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?search=action&keywords=oneway-wolverine

Woodcut Tru-Grind: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?search=action&keywords=woodcut-tru-grind

Kelton: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/cgi-bin/shopper?search=action&keywords=kelton-sharpening

Penn State clone: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lcgrind4.html


I know some of you have homemade jigs or sharpen free-hand, but I’d like more consistent (& better) results. Maybe I just need to practice, or find plans for a better jig.

Thanks
 
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ryannmphs

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I will second the wolverine. However, my first "wolverine" was a homemade that worked fantastic. I even used the oneway varigrind jig with it.

Ryan
 

woodwish

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Personally I am a fan of the Tru-Grind system, have one, love it, and I have also used the Wolverine at club meetings. I really like the Tru-Grind better, especially for gouges.
 

Rudy Vey

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I own the Wolverine system, it is great. But I must say after watching the video I must agree with Woodwish, it seems to be better for gouges than the Wolverine vari-grind.
 

arjudy

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I've seen the Tru-grind system demonstrated and was very impressed with it. I plan on buying an 8 inch grinder and the Tru-grind jig later this year.
 

krose38

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I'm one step ahead of Alan, I watched the Tru-grind system demo in Columbus and had to have one. Haven't got it set up completely yet but I believe it is the best to be had. Got an 8" grinder on the way.
 

Ryan

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Woodcraft is having 10% off everything this Saterday Feb 4th only. They have the Wolverine. I know they are also going to have the Bessley clamps on sale for 40% off.

Ryan
 

coach

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Does the tru-grind only fit 8" grinders? Have to look if I have an 8 or 6". Also, they sell a left side attatchment, does that mean it only fits on the right side? I'm seriously in the market for one also.
 

krose38

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The tru-grind will work on both 6" and 8" grinders. They only make one Slide Assembly. If you want to order an extra slide assembly all have to do is take the assembly apart and re-assemble as per the instructions and you have a right hand slide assembly. The one that comes with the kit is assembled for use on the left wheel. I haven't used mine yet but I love it already. The only difference in the 6" and 8" grinder wheels is the 6" will give you more of a hollow grind than the 8". There is a nice instruction boollet and a CD-Rom that comes with the kit.
 

Borg_B_Borg

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Mind elaborating on why you like the tru grind more or think it's better than a Wolverine? how is it better for gouges? I've read enough comments of a totally general and not useful or helpful nature that a tru grind is "better." But how and why is it "better"? I have yet to come across a detailed explanation either here at IAP and on the Yahoo group I used to frequent as to why it is "better" than a Wolverine.

Steve

Originally posted by woodwish
<br />Personally I am a fan of the Tru-Grind system, have one, love it, and I have also used the Wolverine at club meetings. I really like the Tru-Grind better, especially for gouges.
 

Thumbs

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Rich, for what it's worth.

I couldn't sharpen anything before I got my Wolverine system. I had about 8 gouges and skews sharpened in less than a half hour after I set it up. It was expensive but I could have kicked myself for waiting so long to get it! I would have spent more time than that just wrecking and re-wrecking one gouge before!

The Penn State Industries system looks virtually the same but cheaper! Looks like it'll do the job.......[:)][:)][:)]
 

woodwish

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I like the way the Tru-Grind clamps the gouges in the holder like the Wolverine does for scrapers and I think for skews. In the Wolverine system it seems to me that the gouges are sharpened by setting the overall length to the right setting each time, but as the gouge is sharpened over a period of time the actual length changes. It may not be a big deal but it does make a difference. Also, each gouge you sharpen is going to be a different length depending not only on tool length but also the handle length, therefore each gouge has a different setting. In the Tru-grind the tool holder clamps to the same point on every gouge (in my set-up it is exactly 2" and I have a block mounted that distance on the grinder base) so every gouge sets up the same. Handle length or overall length does not matter. I think scrapers and skews are about the same on either so I guess it depends on what tools you use the most. I do a lot of bowls with bowl gouges and the Tru-grind is quick and accurate time after time.

One other difference that most people never notice is that the Wolverine sticks out just slightly less than the length of the last gouge you sharpened on it, which can be 20-24" or more. The Tru-grind only sticks a few inches (less than 10", maybe only 8"?) beyone the grinder base. When you walk into that Wolverine tool holder once or twice it will be real obvious to your hips another reason why I like the Tru-grind. I know you should move the Wolverine in all the way each time when finished, but will you? And you have to have that much clearance behind the grinder to do it. My grinder is attached on a short shelf mounted right against the wall next to my lathe. I physically could not do that with the Wolverine.

I know the Wolverine fans will jump in here with 82 reasons why I am all wrong, but you asked my opinion on why I think the Tru-grind is better. I hope this helps, but I suggest you try out both of them from someone you know before you buy. I tried them both, and it was a no-brainer to me after that. [8D]
 

Borg_B_Borg

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Thanks for the explanation. For the record, I'm far more a fan of Kelton than of Wolverine, so don't worry about me jumping on you because of any misplaced devotion. If I didn't already own a Wolverine, I would have purchased a Kelton.

Unless I misread your comparison on the way the gouges are mounted, I do not agree with your assessment that the Tru Grind is better because the mounting point or length does not change on the Tru grind, but that it changes on the Wolverine. It's not an accurate comparison because you should compare the way a Tru Grind mounts gouges with the way a Wolverine does the same using a varigrind attachment. Without the varigrind attachment, it's almost like comparing apples and oranges.

As for the length of the Wolverine jig and how one can bang his hip on it, that's true. That's why Kelton has a short jig for short handled tools and a long jig for long-handled tools. One can always purchase an extra long Wolverine Vee-arm jig for under $20 and cut off the excess to make it a short vee-arm jig. That way the long jig is mounted only when sharpening long-handled tools.

What I really don't like about the Tru Grind, is its cheesy wing-nut adjustment. On the Kelton and Wolverine, they are much more substantial cam-lock handles.

Steve

Originally posted by woodwish
[
 

Thumbs

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I must be missing something here! I've never clamped a scraper or skew in my Wolverine...... the Vari-Grind jig requires you to clamp the gouges and if you use a setup block then the length of the steel and angle is the same for every gouge you want to grind at that angle. Usually you just change the angle of the grind but the length of the gouge itself is irrelevant. Skews and scrapers have to have the support arm length changed all the time, but that is a simple and quick setting. A lot of people just place pencil marks on the grinder support to generally mark the length they want for any particular skew or scraper. but it easy to eyeball it. FWIW!
 
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