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Old 07-13-2018, 08:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default Sharpening carbide

Has anyone used the Tormek SVD-185/186 jig for sharpening carbide blades?
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Old 07-13-2018, 05:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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Unless you have a diamond wheel in your Tormek or any other grinder you can't sharpen carbide.
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Old 07-13-2018, 05:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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I use a 600 and 800 grit diamond plate, add a drop of oil and rub the insert in a circular motion on the diamond plate sharpener. In this video a guy uses his lathe to sharpen them. https://youtu.be/mCX4lMssxcU?t=674
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Old 07-13-2018, 05:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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The Tormek manual shows sharpening of carbide blades on the bevel side.
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Old 07-13-2018, 06:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryc View Post
The Tormek manual shows sharpening of carbide blades on the bevel side.
Okay. Everything I’ve ever read said aluminium oxide wheels won’t sharpen Carbide. Only special black grinding wheels (not really well), CBN and Diamond. I sit corrected. ;)
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Last edited by Curly; 07-13-2018 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 07-13-2018, 08:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I have the black silicon carbide wheel (SB-250) on my tormek. I use it to lightly sharpen carbide tooling that already has a good edge (no chips). It would not be a good choice for trying to reshape a carbide tool (or to try and grind out a chip).

Don't try and sharpen carbide on any part of the standard grey wheel on the tormek. Unless you want a really nice groove in the wheel. DAMHIKT.

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Old 07-13-2018, 10:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have the Tormek 186 jig for gouge sharpening. Just last week found an attachment in a box next to the 186 jig and the attachment is for sharpening carbide inserts. I didn't know that I had it.

But yes, carbide inserts can be sharpened. Let us know how it works out.

In the mean time, I am happy with my new CBN wheels for shaping and sharpening my HSS tools!
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Old 07-14-2018, 02:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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Not long ago I made a pen from Mammoth tooth. As I blunted the four facets i removed them from the tool and placed them cutter face down on a fine Diamond file. I had to do this ten to fifteen times,each time restoring a useful cutter group. I am still using that one so it works for me. The surface was bands,really hard,about 4 -5 hrs turning.rock and glass.

Good luck with your needs.

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Old 07-15-2018, 12:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PenPal View Post
Not long ago I made a pen from Mammoth tooth. As I blunted the four facets i removed them from the tool and placed them cutter face down on a fine Diamond file. I had to do this ten to fifteen times,each time restoring a useful cutter group. I am still using that one so it works for me. The surface was bands,really hard,about 4 -5 hrs turning.rock and glass.

Good luck with your needs.

Peter.
Your post told me more about turning mammoth tooth than carbide sharpening. But, that is a good thing. I believe I will pass on trying to turn that material. However, your results with that pen are stunning. Enjoy using or sell for top dollar. BTW, the hardest material I have ever turned was some faux ivory (not what the pen supply vendors sell). Results were beautiful but time and effort have dissuaded me from using the one blank I have left. Maybe one day. BTW, the carbide turning tools I use I made myself. The cutters are replacements for planers and jointers. They cost under $5.00 each and have four edges. I don't bother to try resharpening. For any material other than actual rock and glass, one edge lasts almost indefinitely.
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Old 07-19-2018, 09:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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aluminum oxide, stainless steel, and most other things used in grinding are pretty hard on your lungs.
I have always been told carbide is the worst. I wouldn't go farther than rubbing an insert on a diamond card myself.

I was told by my local sharpening service the vast majority of cutters sent to his shop simply needed cleaned.
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