Question about drilling blanks (too fast)

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angboy

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I'm just figuring out how to use the drill press to drill out my blanks. When I did some last night, being that I'm impatient at times and just hate to do it slow, one of the blanks got to where there was a thin line of smoke coming out of the top. I know that this isn't a good idea to get to that point and in the future I'll try to be more patient, but since it did get to this point, would there be any concern about going ahead and using the blank? It didn't crack or do any damage that's visible- there may be a blackened area on the inside, but nothing I can see.
 
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ctEaglesc

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It sounds like a combination of a dull bit and too much speed.
There was a recent discussion on this subject and opinions were all over the board.
If the bit is sharp it shouldn't "smke"
It is possible the blank was still green and you were seeing "steam"?
In any case a sharp bit is always the best.
A sharp anything is always the best.
 

Rifleman1776

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Eagle is right about opinions all over the place. I believe he uses high speed twist drills with success. I hate them for end grain drilling and use brad points. Pick your posion. But smoke/steam means you are drilling too-too fast. Get patient and back out often.
 

lkorn

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My only concern would be in the type of wood you used. Some of the heat sensitive stuff (Pink Ivory, Ebony, etc.) may have enough internal stresses set up that once you get it down to finished size, It may just go ahead and split on you anyway. However, I would still turn them, but let them settle for a day before assembling.

Originally posted by angboy
<br /> but since it did get to this point, would there be any concern about going ahead and using the blank? It didn't crack or do any damage that's visible- there may be a blackened area on the inside, but nothing I can see.
 

Daniel

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Smoke is not good, and slower is not always the answer.
Actually for me the best way to drill any blank is dependent on a few things.
the type fo wood, the type of bit, how dry or wt the wood is, what size hole is being drilled and how big is the blank.
I just drilled 60 half blanks of very dry 3/4 X 3/4 Walnut with a 7mm bit for slimline pens. I can feed that bit through those blanks in less then two seconds. would be faster if I could spin the handle faster.
I wouldn't even think of trying that with a 37/64ths bit in Cocobolo even if the blank was an inch square.
There are simply to many factors to say drill every 1/2 inch hole at XX speed. knowing how it is supposed to work and then adjusting as needed to get that effect is the method I prefer.
Hard wood, oily wood, wet wood, and odd grain will all have there effect on the desired outcome. knowing when and how to compensate is the mark of experience.
slowing down keeps the bit spinning int he blank longer. causing more frictioin, creating more heat. and can even cause the balnk to warp and grip tighter on the bit. just one of many senarious that can play out. i've had blanks that actually shrunk after being drilled making the hole to small for the tube, requiring that they be drilled a second time.
more accuratley the wood expanded after being drilled due to heat while being drilled but that is getting a bit technical.
To keep it short. oops to late. there are many answers and most of them woudl be correct for a given situation.
but try this. take a 1X1X2 inch piece fo dry pine. drill through it with a 1/4 or 7mm bit as fast as you can. watch cerfully how the chips clear (fly out of the top of the hole) as the bit passes through. very few chips should come out the botom as the bit exits. this will give you an idea of how a bit should work. this is the ideal. you should end up with very little heat. clean entry and exit holes. and a smooth straight bore through the blank. doing this will just help you develop a "Feel for what should be happening. and remember. our craft ranges from 1/2 inch pieces of wood to 1 inch. frill bits in sizes from 6 mm (yes 6 mm) to 37/64. and woods from very dry and soft to very oily and hard. so the deveation from this norm is quite a bit. I still don't have the nerve to try and drill $6.00 burls at the speeds I will drill .50 walnut and other woods. I also know I am actually causing more problems slowing down than I am avoiding.
by the way, not one tear out or blow out amoung those 60 half blanks. and the bit was cool enough to handle with my bare hands when I was done.
 

ctEaglesc

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One thing I didn't mention in an my earlier post.
I glue wwith CA excluseviely for my tubes and have absolutely no problems with it.
Since I have been doing a lot of glue ups of late I have taken on the practize of "drizzling" thin CA down the inside of the hole after drilling.
When that has set I "spritz" the inside with accelerant and re-drill to clean out hte hole for the tube.
I then glue the tube in as usual.
I ahve also made this the practis on porous woods and deer antler.
It makes another step but I have found an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Haven't had much problems with any blow outs since I started truning pens and as I said I use Thick CA.
My tubes are SCUFFED not just wiped.This combined with the extra step in prepping the blank has given me exceelent results.
 

rtparso

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I agree with Daniel, In addition there have been times when, with a sharp bit, I need lots of pressure to cut a good hole. A trick I have not seen written up is to use a lubricant on the flutes of the drill when drilling plastic. It seems to allow the cuttings to clear better.
I think the best tips for drilling are:
1) Sharp Bits what ever style you prefer or have. I like brad points for wood and bullet points for corian.
2) Speed of the drill I have a chart from wood mag to help me get in the right range, but God did not write the speeds (He used a brace bit) so use the chart as a suggestion only.
3) Read what everyone else is doing. Everyone has a reason for their opinion and some are based on experience.
4) Get a feel for the drill press. I can’t always tell what I am doing wrong (or right) but I can feel when it is cutting right.
 

Rifleman1776

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Ron, speed charts do not take into account end grain drilling or boring. And, they usually do not take into account type of bit being used. Some may but I have never seen a chart for 'brad points', 'spade bits', etc. And, as you point out, experience. Go with what works for you. I'm a brad point guy up to 3/4" and spade bit over on end grain work.
 

rtparso

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ctEaglesc

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IT would be great if someone could find the original link from a few months ago.
I believe it was Riflemans but I may be wrong.
Perhaps if I mention that Russ had a classic line that made the most amount of sense it will prompt someone to find it.
I would but I have no problems drilling as I have teh Drill Dr and have found that brad point bits are not the best for me (a pain to sharpen) ,Bits sold as "penmakers bits" are are a waste of money and Harbor Freight bits as with most bits when sharp make nice holes.(the tubes don't know the difference.
If the tube fits glue the sucker.
If you have a problem drilling plastic then make wood pens.
We are not talking abvout the "O"rings on the space shuttle.
 

Scottydont

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I find that speed is not the biggest factor (within reason.) Wether you choose twist or brad point or whatever make sure they are SHARP!I use twist bits and sharpen them with a drill doctor. Dull bits result in more friction and heat. Clear the flutes often. For those who have experienced a blowout at the end while drilling it is due to the pressure as well as the moisture in the blank. In the extreme they can literally explode. I give the same attention to making sure my bits are sharp just as I do my turning tools and I have very few problems.
 

dfurlano

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I think Corian is not a problem but with Acrylics you should think about this:

http://www.plasticsmag.com/features.asp?fIssue=Sep/Oct-01
 

Rifleman1776

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That's an interesting chart. I'm going to print out and keep. The reccomended speeds are somewhat slower than I'm used to. Doesn't mean I'm right. I do a lot of 3/4" end grain into hard-hardwoods at about 500-600 rpm with a brad point. Sometimes have to let things cool. Will check drill press, if it will go slower, I'm going to gear down.
 
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