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Old 05-17-2018, 02:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for this. I think I’ll make one. I too have a micro jig and love it, but with short pieces you can end up with a tapered cut if not really careful.
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Old 05-20-2018, 09:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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I like the basics of this jig however it is only good for two cuts per blank (sides A & B).

It needs to have an adjustable feature so you can cut different widths.

For example: I have a blank that warped when it was stabilized so I need to square it before segmenting. I need to establish a 1st square cut (side A) then trim the opposite side (side C). Then do the squaring cut on side B and then on side D.

This could be accomplished by making the fixed cut off width 1" and using a couple of 1/8" shims to shim the blank over for more cuts.
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:44 AM   #13 (permalink)
 
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Gary, this jig was designed precisely for the example you gave. The rip fence on the saw is the adjustable part. Shims are used on this jig as needed for rip widths. Also, the bed width is 23/32 so a 3/4 blank is 1/32 wider than the bed; that way you don't cut into the jig.
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Old 05-20-2018, 12:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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At first I thought overkill.
After reading the comments, it seems totally appropriate.
One possible suggestion:
If the upper portion had two parallel slots running perpendicular to the blade, you would have even more adjustability for really narrow or bowed pieces or to make very fine slices.
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Old 05-20-2018, 12:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryMGg View Post
At first I thought overkill.
After reading the comments, it seems totally appropriate.
One possible suggestion:
If the upper portion had two parallel slots running perpendicular to the blade, you would have even more adjustability for really narrow or bowed pieces or to make very fine slices.
Yep. I'm considering a new crosscut sled which will have that feature as well. Just haven't started on it yet.
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Old 05-20-2018, 11:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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I just do not see why you need a jig to square blanks. I use a push stick and run through on table saw. Hands nowhere need the blade. I make many of these push blocks of varying thicknesses. It holds the piece down on the table and hand is far away from blade. This happens to be cutting thin strips from that blank.
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:54 AM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Art answered the why question in his first sentence, “trying to square up such small pieces on a table saw makes him a little nervous, even with a push stick.”

Sounds like enough reason to come up with something that makes him more comfortable that could benefit others in the same boat.


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Old 05-21-2018, 08:56 AM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRDucks2 View Post
Art answered the why question in his first sentence, “trying to square up such small pieces on a table saw makes him a little nervous, even with a push stick.”

Sounds like enough reason to come up with something that makes him more comfortable that could benefit others in the same boat.


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Old 05-21-2018, 09:20 AM   #19 (permalink)
 
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If two sides are true and square the push stick and feather board will work well. If not the cut will reflect that and you just make the blank smaller. The jig would seem to be a good way to remove any warp and bring the stock true. The feather board show does not allow for any variance in width. Not safe unless the stock is uniform in width and already true.
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:36 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatrickR View Post
If two sides are true and square the push stick and feather board will work well. If not the cut will reflect that and you just make the blank smaller. The jig would seem to be a good way to remove any warp and bring the stock true. The feather board show does not allow for any variance in width. Not safe unless the stock is uniform in width and already true.

Patrick that is not a feather board. It is my rendition of a thin slice cutting gauge jig. If there is a warp in a 3/4" blank then you are not getting a square blank for use on a pen kit anyway. You run the warp side against a fence and make a cut now you have a square edge and good to go. With his jig I am afraid of those clamps getting caught with that blade because you are sending it past the blade. As I said everyone does things differently and if it works then fine but just pointing out there are other ways of doing things too. Be safe.

Always a sander as another method too. Can use that jig on a sander too. Safer in my opinion.
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