Niles stopper jig

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Camardelle

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Sep 7, 2016
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Is the jig itself what I should be using to tap threads into thecwirkpiece, or should I use a tap to do that? Putting the blank onto the jig seems incredibly tough to do and when I do the stoppers don't seem to fit the turned piece.

What am I doing wrong? All input is welcomed. Thanks!
 
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Spinzwood

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I have a friend who bought this and I believe he had the same problem. I believe the issue is using the incorrect drill. Did your kit come with two drill bits? If so, use the smaller diameter drill for hard woods and the larger diameter drill for softer woods.

After drilling the holes put the mandrel into the headstock, lock the headstock, bring the tailstock with a dead center up to the wood with a little pressure to keep it centered and hand screw the block onto the mandrel while keeping enough pressure from the dead center to keep it going on square. Wouldn't hurt to apply a bit of wax to the threads to help lube it while going on.

I've never had a problem.. and hope this helps.
 

Camardelle

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Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I am doing. If I use the larger bit it's easier to mount the piece to the jig and when finished I end up having to use CA glue to keep the stopper in the workpiece.

I haven't tried the wax trick but I will.
 

JimB

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You may be stripping the threads when you are turning your stopper. Try removing the bulk of the material and doing initial shaping between centers then put it on the mandrel and do finishing with light cuts and a sharp tool. There will be less stress on the threads and you won't strip them.
 

Spinzwood

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Back your OP, if the wax doesn't solve the problem and your mandrel does have the groove like Eddy's in the video, I would go to the 3/8" tap. That will definitely solve the problem.. and cause you less stress :)
 

dogcatcher

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Buy a 3/8" tap, in my opinion it will save you a lot of headaches. I drill the hole, drizzle thin CA glue in it and let that DRY COMPLETELY. Then I tap the hole, and again drizzle thin CA glue on the threads. Then let it DRY again, and then clean the threads once more with my tap. I wax my the threads on my mandrel. 2 reasons, if you get the CA inside of the blank hot enough it will stick to the mandrel without wax, the other, it also makes it easier to remove the blank from the mandrel.

As to the drill bits, I believe the smaller one is for soft woods and larger for hardwoods. The softer the material the smaller you want the hole that you will be tapping.

I drill one day, add the CA, the next day I tap and add the second CA, third day I clean the threads and turn. Seems like it takes a lot of time, it does, but I would turn stoppers in groups of 24 or 36 at a time. I have a T Handle tap wrench that has the 3/8" tap in it, I made a homemade tapping guide that keeps it straight. All this is mounted on a 2x12 that sits in my lap, so I can tap as I watch TV.
 

Camardelle

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Not sure I can plan three days ahead for a stopper. LOL!

I will give the 3/8" tap a shot along with waxing the jig itself. Thanks!
 
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Burb

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I've been using my RN bottle stopper tapping mandrel a lot lately; however, I do it a little different than most. I start with my blank mounted in my chuck. I turn it round, then I square up the face. Next, with my blank still mounted in my chuck, I drill a 1/16" deep hole with a forester bit so I can recess the stopper slightly. I then drill a hole with the RN drill bit ~3/4" deep. As others have stated, I use the larger supplied bit for hardwoods/acrylics and the smaller supplied bit for softwoods. After drilling the hole, I gently place my RN tapping mandrel (after applying bees wax to the threads) into the tailstock and I bring up my tailstock up to the blank. Now, I hold the mandrel in my right hand pressing firm against the blank and I rotate my chuck with my left hand while slowly pushing the threading mandrel into the blank. I go in a couple rotations, then back out and check progress. I clean & reapply wax as needed. Seems to work well for me. Have done several acrylics this way as well.
 

tbfoto

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Does anyone know what the drill bit size is that comes with the Ruth Niles kit?
I might have just found my answer but not sure. I found a thread that said the drill bit in the kit is a stubby bit 5/16" size. Can anyone confirm that?
 
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KenV

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Does anyone know what the drill bit size is that comes with the Ruth Niles kit?
I might have just found my answer but not sure. I found a thread that said the drill bit in the kit is a stubby bit 5/16" size. Can anyone confirm that?

Two bits

5/16

21/64

Use the 21/64 bit on harder woods and acrylics as it provides a bit more clearance.
 

Spinzwood

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Ken, you are correct..

5/16 is 20/64ths. Smaller size
21/64" is a 64th greater in diameter.

The smaller size is for softer woods and the larger size for harder woods.

The Stubby is a great drill in that it doesn't have the length to flex and move off center.. especially when starting holes.
 

Camardelle

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Thanks for all the tips guys, and for the link for the video. I will make adjustments in my routine that I hope will help me get better at this. Thanks again!
 
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