Need help...suggestions!

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Dale Allen

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Oct 27, 2012
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Massillon, OH
I have a small set of jaws for my cheap PSI chuck but after much use they are getting way out of alignment. So, I was thinking of this method I saw using a split chuck. The one I remember was plastic and not used for drilling blanks.
Anyway, I was hoping the jaws would put enough compression on the blank but it tends to slip. Now, I need some kind of clamp. I'm not keen on the idea of a worm drive hose clamp as that would set the balance off. I suppose I could use 2 of them and maintain balance. Any other ideas?
This thing runs very true. Even made out of a piece of cherry, it varies only about .004" when turning. A trial run with this round blank measured real close but since it was spinning in the jaw it was difficult to get a good complete hole.
Thanks all.
 

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Dale Allen

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Oct 27, 2012
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Massillon, OH
Thanks Don.
At your suggestion, I tried one and there is no noticeable out-of-balance vibration.
This HF lathe vibrates so much that even if there was some, you would never detect it.
Anyway, this may be the next step. I can make several sizes for what I need.
I ordered a small #1 pin jaw set but I'm not counting on them being real accurate.
Maybe I'm too picky but hey, I'm allowed to be.
Thanks again.
 

18111

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azamiryou

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Aug 14, 2010
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Silver Spring, MD USA
Hi Yoshi,

Thank you for that video, it is very interesting. I would like to know about the two belts and the pedal-activated(?) mechanism that seems to do something with them. Is it to change direction?
 

Dale Allen

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Oct 27, 2012
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Location
Massillon, OH
So, what kind of wood could one use for that ring that would hold up?
The grain would have to go across the diameter but there would still be 2 side weaker than the rest.
 

plantman

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Jan 2, 2012
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Green Bay, Wi
Hi Yoshi,

Thank you for that video, it is very interesting. I would like to know about the two belts and the pedal-activated(?) mechanism that seems to do something with them. Is it to change direction?

:confused::confused: I have looked at this video many times, and have seen this type of wooden chuck before. The belts are driven from a main line shaft that runs across the woork place. The collet is tapered and cut in 90* segments about 3/4 of the way down. The rings are usually made of live oak and are both the same size. The inside ring being used to tighten the first and close the collet. If you notice in the backround the turner has a large amount of premade collets for the different size blanks. The drive appears to be a foot activatived lever that is spring loaded and lifts the back end of the drive shaft to loosen the belt. The tool bar is a wooden block that he rest his hand on while holding the cutter. The whole operation is very simple, low coast, and requires a lot of skill to work that fast. If you look at some of our own early sawmills, you will see the same ideas used to run them. Many ,if not most, were powered by water, and used line shafts to run the different machines by moveing a belt over a pully to drive it. Speed was controlled by the amount of water you let flow oner your water wheel. I strongly suggest that you look at the other videos on the web sites listed. Jim S
 
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