My new jig, need to make a couple more!

[mpex]

Just finished my first jig last night. For cutting blanks and segments on a table saw. Note that in this photo I have the segments spread out on the jig. That was just for the photo.
Bought a Forrest WW II, Thin kerf 48tooth with stabilizer and a zero clearance insert.

Jig was put together based on this plan:

Pen Blank Table Saw Sled Jig - by LarryDNJR @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

If anyone has some links to ideas for building these next 3 jigs, it would be much appreciated!!! I think I want to do them all on a table saw.

1.Jig for cutting repeatable angles. You can see how I'm doing it in photo 2, but it is far from ideal in a few ways. Not secure and can slip out of alignment. Not easy to set up and hold the angle.
2.Jig for cutting blanks down the center.
3.Jig for cutting blanks in half from one corner to the opposite corner at the bottom.
4.Jig for cutting wood on it's edge, oriented as a diamond.

Other question for this jig:
1.On this setup, I am getting kickbacks around every 5-10 cuts. Having the backstop really helps, but I can see how a stray might hit the backstop and ricochet towards me. None are shooting in my direction right now. Some also hit the backstop hard enough to break. On the piece opposite the blank, what about putting a small feather board there? Any other ideas?

 

[kruger]

saw jig

That is the jig i use to make repetitive cuts without kickbacks.
I built it from Steve LATTA'S Jig, i see in his DVD.

On the 2nd pic On the right, the stop slides under the locking length.
In this way, when the saw begins to attack the wood, I remove the stopper to the right and stop the cut piece does not remain prisionnier between the stop and the saw blade.
This avoids damaging the parts.

on the left, I put a thin board that makes the wood is raised.
After being cut, it is switched to the right and away from the saw blade.

 

[plantman]

Moishe; A table saw is not the best choise for cutting small pieces!! For one thing the blade is cutting the wood from the bottom up and toward you, this is causing the small pieces to kick back when they are cut free. Second, a table saw or mitor saw has no speed control and is usualy overpowered for the small pieces you are trying to cut. 3ed I don't like my fingers that close to the blade when cutting. I do all my cutting on the band saws with sliding tables. Blade is cutting down and speed can be controled. The bandsaw is also at a better height to see what you are doing. You don't an pricey one, because the exactness is in the set-up. Any of the cuts you want to make can be easly done on a band saw, most without jigs. Just my way. Jim S

 

[LarryDNJR]

Just finished my first jig last night. For cutting blanks and segments on a table saw. Note that in this photo I have the segments spread out on the jig. That was just for the photo.
Bought a Forrest WW II, Thin kerf 48tooth with stabilizer and a zero clearance insert.

Jig was put together based on this plan:

Pen Blank Table Saw Sled Jig - by LarryDNJR @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

If anyone has some links to ideas for building these next 3 jigs, it would be much appreciated!!! I think I want to do them all on a table saw.

1.Jig for cutting repeatable angles. You can see how I'm doing it in photo 2, but it is far from ideal in a few ways. Not secure and can slip out of alignment. Not easy to set up and hold the angle.
2.Jig for cutting blanks down the center.
3.Jig for cutting blanks in half from one corner to the opposite corner at the bottom.
4.Jig for cutting wood on it's edge, oriented as a diamond.

Other question for this jig:
1.On this setup, I am getting kickbacks around every 5-10 cuts. Having the backstop really helps, but I can see how a stray might hit the backstop and ricochet towards me. None are shooting in my direction right now. Some also hit the backstop hard enough to break. On the piece opposite the blank, what about putting a small feather board there? Any other ideas?

Hey that is cool! I was surprised to see my name pop up.

 

[LarryDNJR]

Might want to cushion the backstop with foam/fabric. Also another idea is build a clear plexiglass cover to keep any from flying out.

 

[mpex]

Hey that is cool! I was surprised to see my name pop up.

Hey Larry! Didn't know you were part of this forum! I tried to send you a message on LumberJocks thanking you for the post, but I haven't posted enough to have access to PM's there. Also because I saw you were in Columbus as well.

Speaking of which, do you know anyone who might be able to take a look at my band saw and table saw? I'm having a problem with both of them.

Glad to make the connection!

 

[LarryDNJR]

Hey that is cool! I was surprised to see my name pop up.

Hey Larry! Didn't know you were part of this forum! I tried to send you a message on LumberJocks thanking you for the post, but I haven't posted enough to have access to PM's there. Also because I saw you were in Columbus as well.

Speaking of which, do you know anyone who might be able to take a look at my band saw and table saw? I'm having a problem with both of them.

Glad to make the connection!

Howdy

I've been a member here for a few years now. I haven't stopped by Lumberjocks in a long time. Sort of quit frequenting it when they would frown upon penmakers posting their pens so much.

Been here in Columbus 36 years now. I've stopped into your store a few times when I was getting into photography few years or so back.

What issues are you having with the Bandsaw and Tablesaw?

Larry

 

[glen r]

Move supporting wood

Looking at your second jig it would seem that you should have the wood, which determines the angle you are cutting, supporting the wood instead of you trying to hold the wood being cut against the fixed support. This would support the wood and keep you from trying to stop pieces from coming back at you. The way it is now its looking for an accident to happen.

 

[Wingdoctor]

Moishe, you need a solid stop behind the cutoff piece as a continuation of the piece behind the blank and you cannot have the end butted up against a stop as you do because it will give you kickbacks. If you had a 1/8" thick strip that you could put between your fixed stop and the blank you are cutting, then hold the blank firmly against the back rail and remove the 1/8" strip before making the cut, the cut piece will not kick back.

Having a full width back guide piece to your cut-off sled may allow the blade to go through the back of the sled. Normally the back guide will be taller than the blade depth of cut and additional wood added to the back of the sled to prevent the blade from contacting your hand. A stop can also be added to the table saw bed in front of the sled to prevent the blade from going further through the sled than is desired. With your blank guide piece spaced forward of the rear of the sled a stop could prevent the blade from going through the back rail of the sled.

 

[Wingdoctor]

Let me try to answer some of the other questions.

Making jigs to do special cuts, angles and such, is not too difficult, but doing so on pen blank sized pieces makes if more dangerous. Holding the wood down while making the cut safely can be acomplished using the proper design jigs and mechanical hold-downs.

Cutting a blank length wise can be done using a rip fence and good stock holding jigs and hold-downs. You do have to remember that even a thin kerf blade will remove quite a lot of a pen blank.

Angle cuts can be made using a angle cutting jig but again holding the blank is the hard part.

Cutting a diamond will also require a special jig and proper holding methods.

If you wish, PM me and maybe we can get together at my shop and work on some of these techniques. I do a lot of flat work so I may be able to help.

 

[jttheclockman]

You will find you will be making jigs for the rest of your woodworking career. They are an invaluable help in the shop. Yes there are aftermarket devices that work well. I have a Dubby cutoff sled that is invaluable to me and use it all the time. There are many homemade versions. One thing I do when using this sled and I am cutting small pieces I use a trick that Malcolm Tibbetts uses when he makes his segments for all his segmented work. When he uses a tablesaw and uses a sled he has an angled piece of material on the outside of the blade. What this does is, as you push the piece past the blade it falls onto the angled piece and falls away from the blade so it never gets caught up in the backside of the blade. The backside of a blade is what gives you the kickback and slings those small pieces toward you. I do the same except that I make mine the length of the blade and double stick it to the table right next to the blade. It has to be a shade lower than the sled material. Works great.

As I said I made jigs for so many projects over the years that sometimes I have no clue what the jig was for when I look at it. But I do not throw them out. They could something simple as a piece attached to a miter gauge or a sled.

Here is a couple photos.


Used for slicing exact thickness pieces repeatably

Here is one for making kerfs in picture frames or boxes for splines.

Here is one we all use for cutting designated angles repeatably. This one is for 45 degrees. I have one for 60 and for 22.5degrees

So like I said you will be making a ton more of them but always keep in mind what a jig is intended to do and that is to make the project easier and safer and safety is the key word. Always try to incorporate hold downs and or push blaocks or tall fences to keep fingers away from blades. Have fun.