I like to make slimlines out of small diameter pieces of deer antler. I turn the pieces round and then drill on the lathe. I just have a standard 5/8" drive center, so it can be tricky working with small pieces. I'm wondering if anyone has used a "mini" drive that they like. Or any other workarounds would be greatly appreciated.
Mini #2mt drive center
- Thread starter Dehn0045
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I take it that you turn the antler round and then drill.
So, you define, mark, and probably put a little dimple in the ends of the antler.
I would enlarge the dimple with a center drill, and then drill a 1/8" diam hole about 1/8" deep. You can do this by hand.
You can then "drive" the antler piece with a cone .... a metal dead center will work, but better to use a cone coated with something that provides more friction. I use a diamond cone (intended to sharpen square mortising chisels). . Lee Valley is my source, but other vendors have them, I am sure.
So, with your antler piece held between the driver cone in the headstock and a live center in the tail stock you can turn.
Do not exert too much pressure with the live center or you might crack the antler.
It will be a delicate balance between too little pressure and too much.
A little experimentation, trial and error, will be necessary.
I turn all my blanks round in this way before drilling them (on the lathe).
So, you define, mark, and probably put a little dimple in the ends of the antler.
I would enlarge the dimple with a center drill, and then drill a 1/8" diam hole about 1/8" deep. You can do this by hand.
You can then "drive" the antler piece with a cone .... a metal dead center will work, but better to use a cone coated with something that provides more friction. I use a diamond cone (intended to sharpen square mortising chisels). . Lee Valley is my source, but other vendors have them, I am sure.
So, with your antler piece held between the driver cone in the headstock and a live center in the tail stock you can turn.
Do not exert too much pressure with the live center or you might crack the antler.
It will be a delicate balance between too little pressure and too much.
A little experimentation, trial and error, will be necessary.
I turn all my blanks round in this way before drilling them (on the lathe).
Last edited:
Dale Allen
Member
I also turn my blanks round and I use a center drill on the ends. A center drill has the same 60 degree angle that the centers have and I do not need to tighten the blank very much to get it to turn down. Also, because if the tool catches it stops the blank instead of tearing it out. Because of that I turn at a high speed and that not only makes the job go faster, the speed does not let the blank have as much of a chance to stop spinning.
Plastics also work and I turn bowl blanks this way too.
Plastics also work and I turn bowl blanks this way too.
dogcatcher
Member
Buy a 2MT arbor with the threaded end for a drill chuck, like this. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2MT-SHANK-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Then take a 2" long piece of 1018 steel rod, a 1/2" diameter will work. Chuck it up in a collet chuck and drill with a 5/16 bit and tap with 3/8-24 tap only 1" deep. On one end of the 1018 blank, cut teeth marks with a file like on your spur drive. If you want a center point, it can be done, but I am not sure how to explain it in written form.
If you want smaller than the 1/2", do the same as above through the tap, then take a 1.5" long 5/16" rod and insert in the untapped end, drill across the rod and drive a pi in so the 5/16" won't come out, then file your "teeth" on the 5/16 stubby end. I have done this down to a 1/4" diameter drive pin.
Then take a 2" long piece of 1018 steel rod, a 1/2" diameter will work. Chuck it up in a collet chuck and drill with a 5/16 bit and tap with 3/8-24 tap only 1" deep. On one end of the 1018 blank, cut teeth marks with a file like on your spur drive. If you want a center point, it can be done, but I am not sure how to explain it in written form.
If you want smaller than the 1/2", do the same as above through the tap, then take a 1.5" long 5/16" rod and insert in the untapped end, drill across the rod and drive a pi in so the 5/16" won't come out, then file your "teeth" on the 5/16 stubby end. I have done this down to a 1/4" diameter drive pin.
darrin1200
Member
I have a 1/2" Sorby steb center that I bought a Lee Valley, specificly for this purpose. Its expensive, but it works great.
Steb Center
Steb Center
