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Old 03-25-2018, 09:50 AM   #11 (permalink)
 
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Dave,

Your MicroMark will certainly do the job and do it well. Of course if you want a bigger lathe, have at it. We all want one!

There are makers here who do all of their threading on 7x Sieg lathes.

The Sieg lathes can be frustrating at times. Mine recently just locked up on me from debris in the leadscrew bearings. A little minor disassembly cleaning and lubrication can go a long way. Lesson learned!

There are a lot of tweaks out there to make the 7x's much more precise if you like fooling around with your machines:

http://mini-lathe.com
GadgetBuilder's MiniLathe and Little Workshop
mikesworkshop - Introduction

Or if YouTube is more to your taste:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC89...6L3yzu60NP-4Tw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEp...UTtMZzBpdegp-w

Hope you find this helpful.

Bill
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Old 03-25-2018, 10:40 AM   #12 (permalink)
 
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Thank you very much for those links, Bill !!
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Old 03-25-2018, 05:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
 
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I use a Grizzly 7x14 for multi start, as well as 12tpi for the cap threads. I don't believe it's too fine for cap threads, and I've never had any complaints from customers regarding it.
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Old 03-25-2018, 07:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
I use a Grizzly 7x14 for multi start, as well as 12tpi for the cap threads. I don't believe it's too fine for cap threads, and I've never had any complaints from customers regarding it.
Hi John, Thank you so much for your helpful reply. I took a look at your site and your work. Very beautiful! Those are some gorgeous pieces you have accomplished. The translucent ones are stunning. I especially love the clean nibs you are using that don't have the dreaded "Iridium Point Germany" on them. Do you use your 7x14 lathe to cut the threads into your pens to match the threads that these nibs come with?

Thanks!
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Old 03-25-2018, 07:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lign View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
I use a Grizzly 7x14 for multi start, as well as 12tpi for the cap threads. I don't believe it's too fine for cap threads, and I've never had any complaints from customers regarding it.
Hi John, Thank you so much for your helpful reply. I took a look at your site and your work. Very beautiful! Those are some gorgeous pieces you have accomplished. The translucent ones are stunning. I especially love the clean nibs you are using that don't have the dreaded "Iridium Point Germany" on them. Do you use your 7x14 lathe to cut the threads into your pens to match the threads that these nibs come with?

Thanks!
Thanks Dave.
I use mostly unbranded Jowo #6 nib units, but use a tap to cut the threads inside the grip for the nib unit. I have cut them using the lathe in certain scenarios where the hole for the nib unit is stopped and the tap would bottom out, but in general it's easier just to use a tap for that part. All of my other threading though (cap threads, grip threads, finials, etc) are done on the lathe.
As someone posted earlier in this thread, I have begun to gravitate away from the triple start threads for the cap threads, and use a square form thread instead. I've found it ideal because as it's one start, facets or grain will align perfectly every time the pen is capped, as opposed to 1/n chance of alignment with multi start threads.
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Old 03-25-2018, 07:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by bmachin View Post
Dave,

Your MicroMark will certainly do the job and do it well. Of course if you want a bigger lathe, have at it. We all want one!

There are makers here who do all of their threading on 7x Sieg lathes.

The Sieg lathes can be frustrating at times. Mine recently just locked up on me from debris in the leadscrew bearings. A little minor disassembly cleaning and lubrication can go a long way. Lesson learned!

There are a lot of tweaks out there to make the 7x's much more precise if you like fooling around with your machines:

http://mini-lathe.com
GadgetBuilder's MiniLathe and Little Workshop
mikesworkshop - Introduction

Or if YouTube is more to your taste:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC89...6L3yzu60NP-4Tw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEp...UTtMZzBpdegp-w

Hope you find this helpful.

Bill
Bill, yes that is very helpful. Thank you. After reading the replies here, I guess I need to do the grown-up, adult thing and learn to thread on my lathe before spending money on a bigger one. It is great to hear that people are using 12 TPI and don't find it frustrating with too many turns. I've wanted a milling machine for a lot of years, so maybe I'll spend the money on that instead.

I have hardly used my lathe at all except to make a really dandy little cannon that I'm proud of. I have been pretty frustrated with the lathe so I guess I need to learn about the modifications I can make to get it right and usable.
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:06 PM   #17 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lign View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
.
Thanks!
Thanks Dave.
I use mostly unbranded Jowo #6 nib units, but use a tap to cut the threads inside the grip for the nib unit. I have cut them using the lathe in certain scenarios where the hole for the nib unit is stopped and the tap would bottom out, but in general it's easier just to use a tap for that part. All of my other threading though (cap threads, grip threads, finials, etc) are done on the lathe.
As someone posted earlier in this thread, I have begun to gravitate away from the triple start threads for the cap threads, and use a square form thread instead. I've found it ideal because as it's one start, facets or grain will align perfectly every time the pen is capped, as opposed to 1/n chance of alignment with multi start threads.
PatrickR posted a photo of a beautiful piece of yours that seems to have the "square form thread" you are referring to. Is that correct? Surely that is more coarse than 12 TPI? How do you cut those?
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:10 PM   #18 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lign View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lign View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
.
Thanks!
Thanks Dave.
I use mostly unbranded Jowo #6 nib units, but use a tap to cut the threads inside the grip for the nib unit. I have cut them using the lathe in certain scenarios where the hole for the nib unit is stopped and the tap would bottom out, but in general it's easier just to use a tap for that part. All of my other threading though (cap threads, grip threads, finials, etc) are done on the lathe.
As someone posted earlier in this thread, I have begun to gravitate away from the triple start threads for the cap threads, and use a square form thread instead. I've found it ideal because as it's one start, facets or grain will align perfectly every time the pen is capped, as opposed to 1/n chance of alignment with multi start threads.
PatrickR posted a photo of a beautiful piece of yours that seems to have the "square form thread" you are referring to. Is that correct? Surely that is more coarse than 12 TPI? How do you cut those?
Yep, that one is an example of one that has a square thread so the grain lines up. It's 12 tpi. If I remember correctly, it uncapped with about 1.5 turns. Most of the fountain pen community I've dealt with likes the turn count somewhere between one and two turns. Of course TPI isn't the only determinant of the number of turns. You can always cut some of the threads away inside the cap if you want to reduce the number of turns. I cut the threads with internal/external tools that I ground myself.
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Old 03-25-2018, 08:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
 
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[quote=jalbert;1974129][quote=lign;1974128]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lign View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
.
Yep, that one is an example of one that has a square thread so the grain lines up. It's 12 tpi. If I remember correctly, it uncapped with about 1.5 turns. Most of the fountain pen community I've dealt with likes the turn count somewhere between one and two turns. Of course TPI isn't the only determinant of the number of turns. You can always cut some of the threads away inside the cap if you want to reduce the number of turns. I cut the threads with internal/external tools that I ground myself.
Wow, now I remember why I loved this site so much! You folks are just brilliant!! So, you have a single start thread that is secure and aesthetic because of it's wide, square profile. You are correct about the number of turns. 1.5 is about perfect for me. My favorite Pelikan has 3/4 and that simply isn't enough. I lost two shirts to it and finally stopped carrying it when it stained my car seat and a pair of jeans. I just checked my most prized Pelikan, which is like-new and it has about 7/8's of a turn. I'm sure that's what my favorite had at the start of it's life, but a decade of use wore it down to a scant 3/4. 1 full turn is minimum. I'm going to do some experimenting!
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:00 AM   #20 (permalink)
 
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[quote=lign;1974137][quote=jalbert;1974129]
Quote:
Originally Posted by lign View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lign View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert View Post
.
Yep, that one is an example of one that has a square thread so the grain lines up. It's 12 tpi. If I remember correctly, it uncapped with about 1.5 turns. Most of the fountain pen community I've dealt with likes the turn count somewhere between one and two turns. Of course TPI isn't the only determinant of the number of turns. You can always cut some of the threads away inside the cap if you want to reduce the number of turns. I cut the threads with internal/external tools that I ground myself.
Wow, now I remember why I loved this site so much! You folks are just brilliant!! So, you have a single start thread that is secure and aesthetic because of it's wide, square profile. You are correct about the number of turns. 1.5 is about perfect for me. My favorite Pelikan has 3/4 and that simply isn't enough. I lost two shirts to it and finally stopped carrying it when it stained my car seat and a pair of jeans. I just checked my most prized Pelikan, which is like-new and it has about 7/8's of a turn. I'm sure that's what my favorite had at the start of it's life, but a decade of use wore it down to a scant 3/4. 1 full turn is minimum. I'm going to do some experimenting!






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