Making My own Cole Jaws?

[mikemac]

Hi All.

I thought I would ask for opinions before I<s>started</s> got too far into this project.

rather then spend $100+ for a set of Cole jaws for my nova chuck, I thought I might be able to make my own, using Baltic Birch ply, and hardware I have <s>lying around</s> went out and bought at HomeDepot.

Anything I should know or be worried about?

Thanks.
Mike

 

[Randy_]

I don't know anything about them and have never used them; but recall seeing a how-to article in one of the magazines about doing what you want to do so I assume it can be done without too much difficulty. Good luck!!

 

[Russb]

I know a lot of people try making these and give up....The trick is to get the holes in each piece drilled the same. Even and concentric.....

 

[Firefyter-emt]

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=turning&file=articles_123.shtml

Have you seen this yet??

 

[mikemac]

Ok.. turned out to be not too bad. should help, if I want to work on bowls. (I know, I know, bowls aren't pens!)

Thanks
Mike

 

[Firefyter-emt]

I bet that has a bit less mass to slow down when you shut off the lathe as well.. I know when I use my metal Cole jaws, it is a bit scarey! That's a lot of metal getting slung around from two tiny screws!

Nice job, btw!! Do they close all the way, or did you loose the saw kerf? I need a larger set myself, I think mine are 8" and I find a lot of bowls that to not fit. It will be easier for me because I can use my jaws as a template.

 

[mikemac]

You're right, they don't weigh all that much, but at a higher speed, it certainly has your attention.

They do close all the way, I thought far enough ahead as to move the holes 1/16 towards the outside, to compensate for the saw kerf. Not that it matters, if they closed all the way, it would mean the pressure would be on the jaws, and not the bowl you're trying to prevent from flying across the room []

I'm thinking of turning a small cocobolo bowl with a maple lid tonight/tomorrow, I'll let you know how it worked out. Next project, some smaller pin jaws to hold smaller pieces.

M.

 

[CrazyBear]

Just a suggestion for a modification. Instead of using the screws to hold the rubber bumpers, why not use round headed bolts with wingnuts and washers at the back of the board. I think that this would make the bumpers more secure as you wouldnt be worrying about a screw tearing out though use

 

[mikemac]

Actually, I am using bolts and wingnuts (hence all the predrilled holes)

The heads just happened to have robertson heads (its what I had lying around).

 

[CrazyBear]

Sorry Mike it was the tutorial that used wood screws[:I][:I][:I]

 

[Firefyter-emt]

What, Mike??? You did not install T-nuts into all the holes??

Close shave there on the motor cover, what do you have about 1/2" of clearance??

 

[mikemac]

well.. I didn't even think of it till you mentioned it.. dang! []

I have a whopping 3/8" clearance, but I'll swap out the bolts, if I need to. what I DIDN'T pay attention to was the key used to open/close the chuck.. It doesn't clear the jaws.. I had to remove the T-handle part... live and learn [8D]

 

[Fred]

Mike, look on the Internet for plans to make Longworth Jaws. They are definitely easier to use than one that has to have the screws moved for different dimensions. I have the beast from ChickandDuck Mfg., but it is rather expensive and man oh man what a flywheel it becomes. TW be very careful of using speeds above 400-500 RPM's. Bowl blanks really add to the forces of nature and will tear out of the rubber bumpers in a flash. I have always brought my tool rest up to within a quarter inch or so and at the center of my work piece to 'catch' the piece if it decides to go flying. []

 

[fernhills]

I had one fly off while i was final shaping the most perfect plate i have ever turned only maybe a few revs left and it flew off and broke in three peices,seems i fogot to turn speed down i was at 1200 on a 10"cole jaws,i was new at it then..