Looking for a router bit

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Dale Allen

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This raised panel effect is done with the TS at a 12 degree tilt against the fence. A 1/16" step is 3/4" from the edge.
I like the effect and would like to duplicate it on a future project.
However, I don't like the amount of sanding needed to get rid of the saw marks.
I've been looking for a router bit to do the same thing. Most don't give all of the dimensions and the only thing I found was a raised panel bit at 15 degrees.
Any ideas?
 

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Curly

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The 1/16" step 3/4" from the edge. Is that the distance from the panel edge to where the field of the panel begins? Or is it from what looks to me like a shoulder or reveal along the edge of the rail and stiles? You could look for the largest diameter spiral mortising bit you can find and make a tilted fence and duplicate the cuts you made with the saw. I would use the saw to cut most of the waste before routing. I use a Williams and Hussey planer moulder to make my raised panels. There is always a little sanding on the cross grain ends.
 
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Dale Allen

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Curly, this is the detail from the plans.
My blade is thinner and did not give me as thick of a step.
 

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plantman

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Dale; Look up mlcswoodworking.com, they have Katana and many other raised panel cutters that should fit your needs. Depth and distance can be set by height of the cutter and distance from the fence to any shape you want. You will get much better results if this is mounted in a table mounted router or a shaper table as these are large cutters. No need to tilt the fence. Jim S
 
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Curly

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In that case I'd get a 1" diameter straight plunge bit like this one and make the tilted fence to get the angle you want. I'd still cut the bulk off with the table saw. I thought the first picture was of a door of some kind.
 

plantman

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It's just a bevel raised panel but to get that look I believe.

That's true Dan, but in order to get the 90 degree step Dale wants. you would have to make a second table saw cut to obtain it. A raised panel cutter will do this all in one step with a lot more control and much much safer, as all the cutting will be done under the door front. Jim S
 

jttheclockman

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This is true. A raised panel router bit is the way to do those consistently and accurately. But you need to have a router that can handle those large bits and is variable speed. You do not run those bits at full speed. I agree a table is a must again for safety and accuracy. You can get many different profiles and depths. They sell door making router bit sets that are great if doing many doors. Cheaper in the long run.

30192-01-1000.jpg
 
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jttheclockman

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All of this sounds like a great excuse to buy a whole bunch of new tools. :)

Heck when I was doing furniture I went and bought a Delta shaper too. Try buying those bits. Now with all these new bigger and better routers and the lift tables the shaper is one of those tools that just about faded away. Your big factories still use them because of their steadiness and speed control. Mine sits in the corner and is used as a table these days. My big project days are over.:)
 

Dale Allen

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Thank you all for the replies. Much good info here.
I have a PC 690VS router so I think it would handle the large bits.
And I do use a custom made router table.
I can use the bit John pictured but the angle is steeper. Not a big deal but I'd either have less on the edge or almost no step at the face.
 

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Terredax

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Have a look at the Amana bits. They have an extensive line and they can be found at Toolstoday.
 

jttheclockman

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Thank you all for the replies. Much good info here.
I have a PC 690VS router so I think it would handle the large bits.
And I do use a custom made router table.
I can use the bit John pictured but the angle is steeper. Not a big deal but I'd either have less on the edge or almost no step at the face.

You can get different angles. Whiteside, Freud, Woodline, MLCS, Amana all make good quality carbide router bits. 18 degrees is nice look for raised panel doors. Many different profiles. As I said if you are making the doors then a door set maybe the answer because you can get them cheaper than if you bought individually.

The router is probably a 690LRVS. This is a good router and I have one set up in one of my router tables. If you take small cuts it should work fine. I never used that large of a bit with it though. The table I have it set up in would not be able to accept that size bit because the opening is not large enough. Something to remember. I would have chose a router with more HP. Good luck in your new venture.

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shakerbev.jpg
 
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Dale Allen

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I wonder how a vertical bit like this with the bearing removed would work?
This one is 1" on the cutter length but that can be adjusted below the table.
With proper featherboards to hold the panel against a high fence, it may work.
The 12 degrees is there too.
 

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Charlie_W

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Thank you all for the replies. Much good info here.
I have a PC 690VS router so I think it would handle the large bits.
And I do use a custom made router table.
I can use the bit John pictured but the angle is steeper. Not a big deal but I'd either have less on the edge or almost no step at the face.

I would only consider a bit of this size in a 3 hp router.
 

plantman

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Yes !! John you made a good point that I should have mentioned !! You will need a 2HP or larger VS or a speed controlled plunge router to turn these large cutters, as most have 1/2" or larger shafts. And you don't want to spin these at 20,000 RPMs . When you have this set up mounted in a sturdy table it is more or less a shaper. Jim S
 

jttheclockman

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I wonder how a vertical bit like this with the bearing removed would work?
This one is 1" on the cutter length but that can be adjusted below the table.
With proper featherboards to hold the panel against a high fence, it may work.
The 12 degrees is there too.


Dale those bits are more of a pain than what it is worth. When you can lay the panel down on a solid surface it makes for a better control and you can sneak up on the cut and do not have to take it all off in one pass. It would be easy enough to compensate a fence as opposed to raise and lower the bit with those type bits. I would not use them. My opinion. You are set on this 12 degree. That is shallow for a raised panel door. Check out those companies for bits. You will probably find one.

You will get vibration with that router and that size bit. It may leave chatter marks.
 
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Dale Allen

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I wonder how a vertical bit like this with the bearing removed would work?
This one is 1" on the cutter length but that can be adjusted below the table.
With proper featherboards to hold the panel against a high fence, it may work.
The 12 degrees is there too.


Dale those bits are more of a pain than what it is worth. When you can lay the panel down on a solid surface it makes for a better control and you can sneak up on the cut and do not have to take it all off in one pass. It would be easy enough to compensate a fence as opposed to raise and lower the bit with those type bits. I would not use them. My opinion. You are set on this 12 degree. That is shallow for a raised panel door. Check out those companies for bits. You will probably find one.

You will get vibration with that router and that size bit. It may leave chatter marks.

Points well taken John.
I appreciate the insights.
I have never purchased any of the large panel bits because I was never fully comfortable using them on my homemade table.
At this point I guess I'll wait until I have the need again. A new router, table and bits is a big investment and no immediate need so I can wait.

The 12 degrees is what worked on this project. It leaves about 1/2" on the bottom edge of the drawer. Making that less would weaken the edge a bit, but not a lot. If these were made with drawer fronts attached to boxes it would be no problem and that is typical of kitchen cabinets.
 

jttheclockman

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I wonder how a vertical bit like this with the bearing removed would work?
This one is 1" on the cutter length but that can be adjusted below the table.
With proper featherboards to hold the panel against a high fence, it may work.
The 12 degrees is there too.


Dale those bits are more of a pain than what it is worth. When you can lay the panel down on a solid surface it makes for a better control and you can sneak up on the cut and do not have to take it all off in one pass. It would be easy enough to compensate a fence as opposed to raise and lower the bit with those type bits. I would not use them. My opinion. You are set on this 12 degree. That is shallow for a raised panel door. Check out those companies for bits. You will probably find one.

You will get vibration with that router and that size bit. It may leave chatter marks.

Points well taken John.
I appreciate the insights.
I have never purchased any of the large panel bits because I was never fully comfortable using them on my homemade table.
At this point I guess I'll wait until I have the need again. A new router, table and bits is a big investment and no immediate need so I can wait.

The 12 degrees is what worked on this project. It leaves about 1/2" on the bottom edge of the drawer. Making that less would weaken the edge a bit, but not a lot. If these were made with drawer fronts attached to boxes it would be no problem and that is typical of kitchen cabinets.


Understood. Those bits can be intimidating for sure. I can show you some huge router bits that have some weight to them. That is why a router with some HP is needed for those bits. You are slowing the router down and a PC 690 router will have to really work. A sturdy table is a must also. Good luck whatever you decide.
 

Dale Allen

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After I dusted off my seldom used math skills, I determined that the difference in the angle from 12 to 15 degrees is less than 1/16". So, not enough difference to matter really.
For a much smaller investment I may get a 15 degree vertical bit and see if I can run multiple passes by moving the fence setup. May experiment with that later this winter.
First I need to finish this dresser.
 

jttheclockman

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After I dusted off my seldom used math skills, I determined that the difference in the angle from 12 to 15 degrees is less than 1/16". So, not enough difference to matter really.
For a much smaller investment I may get a 15 degree vertical bit and see if I can run multiple passes by moving the fence setup. May experiment with that later this winter.
First I need to finish this dresser.


Well if you are going that way the bit you shown is not going to work. You need a true vertical bit with no bearing. There has to be a cutter on the top side. You can't just take a bearing off. No cutter there.

Freud 99-315 Bevel Vertical Raised Panel Router Bit | Rockler Woodworking & Hardware
 
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