Long term storage

[jyreene]

I have a question about long term storage of lathe tools and lathes. What's the best way to prep them? The storage should be temperature controlled but I won't know how well. Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Charlie_W]

I would blow out all the dust and shavings as they can contain moisture. Then, take the tension off the belt.
Next would be to take out any centers from the morse tapers. Then, all cast iron surfaces need to be treated to prevent rust. A wipe down with light oil would be my first go to. Others may have other products they prefer.
If there is any wild chance that water or moisture can drip on it, I would cover it loosely. You don't want to trap moisture in your cover.

Hope that helps.

 

[Warren501]

One question that needs to be answered is how long to you plan to store your items. I apply my rust inhibitors to all machined/non-painted surfaces.

I have had dealings with long term storage of large compressor and engine components preparing items for storage on offshore oil/gas platforms over the years plus living in the Houston, TX (semi-tropical) climate.

What I have found works for me is if I am going to only store for 3-4 months between uses, I use Boeshield and it is easily cleaned off and works well. It is available from some of the woodworking supply companies.

For longer storage about a year or so I would recommend CRC (the brand name) 3-36. I was the best rated anti-rust material in one of the wood working magazines last year.

And last and longest lasting, 2-5 years, is CRC SP-400. Both of these leave a heavy wax coating that will have to be removed using mineral spirits or equal. These CRC items can sometimes be found in a local auto parts store or on line suppliers like Amazon, Grainger or McMaster Carr.

 

[KenV]

Another product popular for getting corrosion protection in the wet (South East Alaska Rain Forest) is Corrosion X. Tends to crawl into places you might not otherwise get.


Do not use WD-40. Has no corrosion protection -- mostly mineral spirits.

The CRC products are popular also -- think boats being put into storage for 8 months of the year

 

[jyreene]

I would blow out all the dust and shavings as they can contain moisture. Then, take the tension off the belt.
Next would be to take out any centers from the morse tapers. Then, all cast iron surfaces need to be treated to prevent rust. A wipe down with light oil would be my first go to. Others may have other products they prefer.
If there is any wild chance that water or moisture can drip on it, I would cover it loosely. You don't want to trap moisture in your cover.

Hope that helps.

That does, thank you. Step one is cleaning it. It will be packed up so the box it's in will have to get wet first.

One question that needs to be answered is how long to you plan to store your items. I apply my rust inhibitors to all machined/non-painted surfaces.

I have had dealings with long term storage of large compressor and engine components preparing items for storage on offshore oil/gas platforms over the years plus living in the Houston, TX (semi-tropical) climate.

What I have found works for me is if I am going to only store for 3-4 months between uses, I use Boeshield and it is easily cleaned off and works well. It is available from some of the woodworking supply companies.

For longer storage about a year or so I would recommend CRC (the brand name) 3-36. I was the best rated anti-rust material in one of the wood working magazines last year.

And last and longest lasting, 2-5 years, is CRC SP-400. Both of these leave a heavy wax coating that will have to be removed using mineral spirits or equal. These CRC items can sometimes be found in a local auto parts store or on line suppliers like Amazon, Grainger or McMaster Carr.

3 plus years so CRC is what I will look at. Thank you.

Another product popular for getting corrosion protection in the wet (South East Alaska Rain Forest) is Corrosion X. Tends to crawl into places you might not otherwise get.


Do not use WD-40. Has no corrosion protection -- mostly mineral spirits.

The CRC products are popular also -- think boats being put into storage for 8 months of the year

Thanks, I will at Corrosion X to the list of research.

 

[CaptainJane]

Lathe storage

Hi all
Howdy from Galveston

I am pretty new at this pen turning, but having a blast. I live on the water in a canal-front home just over the bridge from Galveston Island. I also have water on the front side too, so I am pretty much surrounded by saltwater.We have major problems with rust and corrosion. I have a new Jet lathe, but even when new, the paint is pretty lousy.

I am gone from home for a month at a time, and this is what I have been doing:

1. I lubricate my lathe handles, mini tablesaw and mini disksander. there are not many lube points on the lathe, just the handles for the tailstock and the other sliding piece. Wipe all the shavings and dirt off.
2. I sharpen all my tools, and use the cloth that has the lube from step 1 - to wipe down the tools. It would probably be better if I waited to sharpen the tools until I returned home, but when I get home - I want to get turning!
3. Put a fresh coat of wax stuff on the tablesaw and sander tables, and on the lathe bed - the bare metal looking parts. I have been using some stuff that I have for my sailboat called Rejex, but I understand any wax is good.
4. Probably the most important thing I do is - remove the tailstock and the sliding other part (banjo?) from the bed. I think if I left them on the lathe bed, there would be lots of rust when I returned - no matter what I did.
5. Unplug everything - lathe, tablesaw, sander, grinder. worklight. We also get this weird galvanic corrosion here, which is somehow related to electricity. I discovered a corrosion hole in my sailboat mast, with a little pile of white dust around it. Not taking any chances.
6. Finally, I cover the lathe with a folded sheet ($7 at Walmart) - to hopefully absorb any moisture.

This last time home, just before I left, I glued up some tubes and blanks.
Now, when I get home, I can whip the sheet off, plug everything in, wipe down my tools, slide the other piece and tailstock back on, and I have a blank ready to turn.

I have been doing this for less than a year, but absolutely no rust is seen. There are a few discolored places on the lathe bed, but no rust.

I hope this helps. It really is not much trouble. It just reads that way.

(After reading everyone's post, I will add de-tensioning the belt to my list.)

Captain Jane

 

[Donovan]

I use Valvoline Tectyl 506. Worth also makes a product that works like a penetrating oil and it gets in everywhere and after a few minutes it will turn into a kind of grease, very good product

Donovan

 

[jeweler53]

:biggrin: Send it to me. I will keep it in my nice heated garage, run it periodically (read almost daily), and wipe it down or vacuum it at least weekly.

 

[jyreene]

Thanks for the advice all.

Dick - sure for a low low monthly fee you can hold on to it!