Interesting small table saw by Fred Brinks

[jdmyers4]

I was browsing the web the other day and happened upon this YouTube video about a small table saw built by a professional model ship builder - Fred Brinks. Very cool saw! It uses 4" saw blades (same as the Byrnes table saw), but it goes beyond what the Byrnes saw offers - a sliding table, a very nice adjustable miter guage, and a robust DRO fence. The table size looks a bit bigger too. This is his prototype model, and he plans to introduce it to the market next month (March).

Most Accurate Small Table Saw in the World by Fred Brinks - YouTube

Sure, it's not the saw to get if you want to cut large stock. But if you're cutting small stock, it sure is a sweet looking machine.

[bluwolf]

Looks like a nice piece of work. Maybe I'm being picky (or wrong) but the belt from the motor to the arbor looks terribly misaligned. I hope it can be adjusted. Other than that pretty impressive. I'm sure it won't be cheap though.

[Akula]

seems like it needs more (LOL)

ok, looks just like a lot of overkill, pieces will hit the blade (very bad) and will be expensive...I'm positive someone will have a good use for it but not me. Just adding as much as possible to something don't always make it better.

Congrats to him on building something (adding on) for his needs.

The best thing I have seen for a table saw is the Stopsaw.

[skiprat]

Looks very snazzy. I wish he would answer the question about the fence clearing the blade though.
Any machine that can be adjusted can only be as accurate as the setting made to it, so I'm not convinced it can claim to be the most accurate saw in the world.

[SDB777]

But does it cut anything....I never saw it run. Or did I blink and miss it?


Scott

[PTsideshow]

Problem with the small belt driven saws is the motors are generally under powered and the belts slip and pop off. I have had a 4 inch Dremel since the mid seventies. It is what it is a very slow feed speed saw for small items.
I used it for ripping red oak to make some small molding for the stairs in the house. And at times it wood pop the belt even cutting 3/8" x1/4" red oak. It isn't for production work.

That being said. Even the direct drive small saws under 6" will stall very easy.
The HF one has that problem you have to feed the wood in very slowly. Yes it will cut 3/4" blank woods. But wood better be used for smaller thinner pieces for segmenting etc.
Proxon has a small table saw, and Micro mark has thier version of a 4"
here is their page
I have been looking for a saw that you can use for model and small work.
Since table saws under 10" are hard to find, I considering to use my cheap contractor saw with a 1/4" sheet of ply on the top run the blade up through it for a zero clearance slot and have it just shy of the 3/4" so the rip fence will work for set up.

Or maybe make up a sliding table jig with clamping fence and guard that will use both of the miter slots.
I just picked up a Freud thin kerf 10" blade today a multi tooth combo blade for a glass smooth finish.
I have come to the conclusion that it will be the best and easiest solution.

[nava1uni]

Originally Posted by PTsideshow

Problem with the small belt driven saws is the motors are generally under powered and the belts slip and pop off. I have had a 4 inch Dremel since the mid seventies. It is what it is a very slow feed speed saw for small items.
I used it for ripping red oak to make some small molding for the stairs in the house. And at times it wood pop the belt even cutting 3/8" x1/4" red oak. It isn't for production work.

That being said. Even the direct drive small saws under 6" will stall very easy.
The HF one has that problem you have to feed the wood in very slowly. Yes it will cut 3/4" blank woods. But wood better be used for smaller thinner pieces for segmenting etc.
Proxon has a small table saw, and Micro mark has thier version of a 4"
here is their page
I have been looking for a saw that you can use for model and small work.
Since table saws under 10" are hard to find, I considering to use my cheap contractor saw with a 1/4" sheet of ply on the top run the blade up through it for a zero clearance slot and have it just shy of the 3/4" so the rip fence will work for set up.

Or maybe make up a sliding table jig with clamping fence and guard that will use both of the miter slots.
I just picked up a Freud thin kerf 10" blade today a multi tooth combo blade for a glass smooth finish.
I have come to the conclusion that it will be the best and easiest solution.

You should look at Byrnes saw. Several members on here have one and it has an excellent reputation for it's quality and it's ability to cut.