I need help with my bandsaw

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navycop

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Wildman

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I would check blade weld and make sure welded straight.
Check tires have crown, not loose, or cracked.
Check wheels coplanar, blade on and under tension with straight edge.
Check blade tension, under/over tension can cause blade not to track properly
Check guide post locks down straight.
Of course if could find manual for this bandsaw set-up would be a snap.

Woodworking - Band Saw Setup and Tuneup - YouTube
 

randyrls

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Harrisburg, PA 17112
Mike; When you are not using the saw, always release the tension on the blade. Check the rubber tires to make sure they are not deformed. Lay a straight edge across the tires to see if it is dished or worn. Lay a longer ruler or level from wheel to wheel and check to see if the wheels are in the same plane. Urethane (colored) tires are better than the older black rubber tires.
I am having the same problem with my (new) saw now. Check the blade to see if it is running against the guide bearings on the upper and lower guides.

Is this a Shopsmith band saw?
 

Goofy

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Swanton, Ohio
I have an older Sears bandsaw. There is a tracking screw in the center of the upper wheel hub. screwing it in and out will change the track of the blade. You do it while the saw is running. Kind of like the tracking screw on a belt sander. Your saw have anything like that?
 

TerryDowning

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Mike, get a bandsaw for your SS, you won't regret it. I got a rebuilt used one for $150.

6" resaw capacity and all the torque of your SS. Auto Tracking, it's probably the easiest bandsaw out there to use and maintain.
 

Autonoz

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I have an older Sears bandsaw. There is a tracking screw in the center of the upper wheel hub. screwing it in and out will change the track of the blade. You do it while the saw is running. Kind of like the tracking screw on a belt sander. Your saw have anything like that?

I agree with this, but when I do this I turn it by hand initially. On mine "Sears" this is all it takes to see if the tracking is close. I then turn it on and adjust as necessary.
 

navycop

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There is a tracking screw in the center of the upper wheel hub. screwing it in and out will change the track of the blade. You do it while the saw is running. Kind of like the tracking screw on a belt sander. Your saw have anything like that?
Yes, It is safe to have the saw running (with all doors closed of course) to do this?
Urethane (colored) tires are better than the older black rubber tires. Is this a Shopsmith band saw?
No, not a Shopsmith. I might pick up some blue tires from Woodcraft after the storm.
Mike, get a bandsaw for your SS, you won't regret it. I got a rebuilt used one for $150. 6" resaw capacity and all the torque of your SS. Auto Tracking, it's probably the easiest bandsaw out there to use and maintain.
Sounds like a plan. Try to fix this one in the meantime.
Thanks everyone.
 

mdburn_em

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Chesapeake, VA, USA
There is a tracking screw in the center of the upper wheel hub. screwing it in and out will change the track of the blade. You do it while the saw is running. Kind of like the tracking screw on a belt sander. Your saw have anything like that?
Yes, It is safe to have the saw running (with all doors closed of course) to do this?

I don't do this running.
I spin the wheel by hand. If the track is off, you will see it move.
You adjust by what you observe the blade do.
 

Haynie

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I do things as Mark suggested until the end. After I think I have it by hand turning I do a quick turn on and turn off, with the covers on. Just to do the fine adjustments. Every time I have thought I had it by hand I needed some fine tuning after firing up. Don't adjust with it turned on.
 

SteveG

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Eugene, Oregon 97404
There is one more adjustment, and sequence is important. This has to do with blade tracking. The guide blocks and thrust bearing are there to keep the blade running true when pressure is put in it as you make a cut. But the blade must track at the correct position without the guide block help when there is no cut being made. So set the blade to track correctly with the guides backed off. Once that is good, THEN bring the guide block adjustment in to maintain tracking when the material is being cut. If you have the blocks (vs the more expensive side bearings), put a thin piece of paper between the blocks and blade as you tighten the blocks in place. This provides a small clearance between blade and block. Now...cut away with a big smile on your face!
 
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