Help with thin parting tool use...

[Warren White]

... I can't seem to figure this thing out. I have looked for videos that may explain how to use this tool, but don't see any. It isn't like this tool (or a similar tool) isn't sold in lots of places.

Which side goes up? How is it presented?

Dang lathe grabbed it out of my hand twice, so something is wrong with the presentation.

Any help would be MOST appreciated!

 

[JimB]

I have one just like it. I present it long point down (the HSS) printing would be upside down in your case). The long point would do all the work. I then present it to the wood the same way I do my regular parting tool.

I don't know if that is wrong or right but that is what works for me. When I first got it I was confused about how to hold it and there really didn't seem to be any info on it. I decided on this way because if I turn it over then the point is to high to present to the wood.

I hope that helps. BTW I've never had it pulled from my hand.

 

[jttheclockman]

www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/135/3132/Robert-Sorby-Narrow-Parting-Tool

 

[Herb G]

Search for tenoning tool & you'll likely find the videos on using it.

 

[Warren White]

www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/135/3132/Robert-Sorby-Narrow-Parting-Tool

Looks like the video only shows sharpening; doesn't show the use of the narrow tool.

 

[Charlie_W]

Yes, long point down on the tool rest. You will then drop the handle to get the cutting angle needed.
If used with the long point up, any deviation from true plumb will result in a nasty grab as you must have experienced as the cutting edge is elevated up above the support point on the tool rest and will tend to flip over.

 

[Warren White]

Charlie and Jim...

Yes, long point down on the tool rest. You will then drop the handle to get the cutting angle needed.
If used with the long point up, any deviation from true plumb will result in a nasty grab as you must have experienced as the cutting edge is elevated up above the support point on the tool rest and will tend to flip over.

Both of you have hit the nail on the head! Thanks a lot. Makes me wonder why they print the HSS on the blade to be read when the tool is wrong-side-up? I guess there is no excusing ignorance on my part..

I will draw some arrows on the blade until muscle memory kicks in.

Again, thank you for each reply. All of the videos I was able to see highlighted the diamond parting tool (which I also have and have never had a problem using).

Great forum made up on very helpful folks.

 

[Charlie_W]

Yes, long point down on the tool rest. You will then drop the handle to get the cutting angle needed.
If used with the long point up, any deviation from true plumb will result in a nasty grab as you must have experienced as the cutting edge is elevated up above the support point on the tool rest and will tend to flip over.

Both of you have hit the nail on the head! Thanks a lot. Makes me wonder why they print the HSS on the blade to be read when the tool is wrong-side-up? I guess there is no excusing ignorance on my part..

I will draw some arrows on the blade until muscle memory kicks in.

Again, thank you for each reply. All of the videos I was able to see highlighted the diamond parting tool (which I also have and have never had a problem using).

Great forum made up on very helpful folks.

Glad we could help!

 

[donstephan]

Didn't realize it till later, but when I was first trying to use a thin parting tool I was actually holding the tool slightly above the tool rest, perhaps because the weight and/or profile was different from the diamond parting tool. Had several catches and very ragged cuts. Once I focused in part on holding the tool down on the tool rest the problems went away. But I was only using it (successfully) to part off the two halves when roughing out a few more green lidded box blanks, and haven't had another opportunity to use it since.

 

[Charlie_W]

Warren, in addition to my earlier comments, when you had used the parting tool
in the point up position, the cutting tip was extended farther over the tool rest thus making it more likely to grab, get pulled down and out of your hand.

A reminder as to why using a face shield is important even when turning smaller items.

Turn Safe!

 

[robutacion]

I also notice that Sorby sells them with the top tip sharpen down slightly, this is identical to what it's call "negative racking" that can be put on some of the wood turning tools, it works well..!

Cheers
George

 

[TattooedTurner]

I have the Sorby with the negative rake profile and love it. It gives a bevel to ride on when presenting the tool (just like a regular parting tool) rather than digging straight in. You could always change the profile with your grinder if it's still catching .