help with drill chuck

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triw51

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I have a drill chuck with a #2 Morse taper that I made into a bottle stopper jig. The problem is the drill chuck will work loose after a while. What I am looking for is a #2 taper that has threads on the back so you can thread in a piece of all thread and hold it into the head stock.
I think I can take the chuck off the taper I have, is that hard to do?
Any suggestions? Pictures of what I have.
 

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Dan Masshardt

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Just buy the psi bottle stopper chuck that screws on the threads It's cheap

Or buy a collet chuck and be done with it Psi has one reasonably and it works for all sorts of stuff

Or if you are committed to your solution :) my keyless chuck also from psi is threaded in the taper it too is reasonably priced
 

lorbay

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If it comes loose by tapping it in with a mallet then there is something not right with your tapers. Has anything ever spun in the head stock taper?? If there is any build up at all it will prevent the tapers from mating properly. I have a MT taper reamer that I clean my tapers with at least once or twice a year. You would be amazed at what comes out of them. Mostly dirt and dust that has been crushed into the head stock taper.
Lin
 

low_48

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Look inside the chuck and see if there is a small hole through the top of the chuck. If so, somehow block up around the long taper so the chuck shoulder is against some wood. Use a pin punch to drive out the shaft. You may have to do some side hits on the shaft to help loosen it. I bought my new shaft from Craft Supplies years ago, that has a 1/4-20 threaded hole in the end for a draw bolt.
 

triw51

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Look inside the chuck and see if there is a small hole through the top of the chuck. If so, somehow block up around the long taper so the chuck shoulder is against some wood. Use a pin punch to drive out the shaft. You may have to do some side hits on the shaft to help loosen it. I bought my new shaft from Craft Supplies years ago, that has a 1/4-20 threaded hole in the end for a draw bolt.

Thank you. I though the taper screwed into the chuck so I would have tried to unscrew the shaft. I will check the chuck when I get out to the shop
 

Curly

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William you need to look for chuck removal wedges. They are placed on either side of the chuck and tapped together with a hammer to separate the chuck from the taper adapter. The next fun bit will be to find a new taper adapter that matches the one in the chuck. Enco is one source for the chuck removal wedges.
 

lorbay

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Look inside the chuck and see if there is a small hole through the top of the chuck. If so, somehow block up around the long taper so the chuck shoulder is against some wood. Use a pin punch to drive out the shaft. You may have to do some side hits on the shaft to help loosen it. I bought my new shaft from Craft Supplies years ago, that has a 1/4-20 threaded hole in the end for a draw bolt.

Thank you. I though the taper screwed into the chuck so I would have tried to unscrew the shaft. I will check the chuck when I get out to the shop
Most of the small drill chucks like on a 1/4 or 3/8 drills will screw on, but the one you show has a J T taper on it.
Lin
 

KenV

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I looked at the chucks in the shop and they are stamped with the fittings they take on the back in. Some are JT taper (with the number shown) and some are 3/4 by 16 threaded.

I have one import chuck in Tucson that is not labeled -- so it is not universal, but mostly so.
 

triw51

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William you need to look for chuck removal wedges. They are placed on either side of the chuck and tapped together with a hammer to separate the chuck from the taper adapter. The next fun bit will be to find a new taper adapter that matches the one in the chuck. Enco is one source for the chuck removal wedges.

So it seems that it would be a better route to purchase a chuck with a threaded end? What is a good quality brand that will run true?
Thanks
 

Curly

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The threaded chucks are usually used on portable tools and magnetic drills. The reason chucks lathes and drill presses use tapers is because they can be more accurate. The adapter's Morse taper and the chuck's (usually) Jacobs taper are turned in one session between centres therefore morse accurate.

The problem you are having is the Morse taper is designed to hold when most of the force is along the length and using it for turning puts side loads on it. Forces from the side loosen it unless there is a drawbar to keep tension on the taper. Some milling machines use Morse tapers but they must have a drawbar to keep the tools in place. The reason they are not popular for milling machines is the tapers can stick in the spindle. Really what you should consider is keeping the drill chuck as is and use it for what it is designed to do and that is drilling.

A better solution might be to get a morse taper collet in the size you need to hold a bolt, head removed, as the stopper mandrel. A collet in the size needed will cost the same as a taper adapter and have the advantage of keeping the turning closer to the headstock. Some all thread/ready rod cut to length along with a washer and a couple nuts is all you need to hold the collet in place.
 

KenV

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William -- I am quite fond of my mandrel from Ruth Niles for stopper turning. It is multi use, and I make bird house ornaments with it -- especially the roof sections. Designed to be captured in chucks too.

Still need the drawbar, but it makes the drill chuck useful for drilling --
 
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