Grizzly Chuck Help!!!!!!!!!

[1JaredSchmidt]

I'm trying to find a good chuck and I found some at Grizzly. Go to Grizzly.com and type in G1082, H8049,and H8042. They're all 4 jawed chucks with 1x8tpi and I don't know which one is better. I'd appreciate all suggestions. By the way I don't want to spend over $50.00. Thanks![?]

 

[Dario]

If it is for woodturning...sorry but you don't want any of those you listed.

What you need is something like this http://www.grizzlyimports.com/products/4-Jaw-Wood-Chuck-1-x-8-TPI/H6265
It is twice your budget though.

 

[Dario]

Another worth checking http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-CSC3000C-Barracuda-System/dp/B000KIACTG/ref=sr_1_52?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1198556758&sr=1-52

 

[stevers]

I'm sort of looking right now too, and you are going to have trouble getting anything worth a darn for under $50. That first Grizz actually looks pretty good. Looks to be nice quality.
Just remember what they say, "you can cry once when you buy it or cry every time you use it."

 

[jtate]

I got this one - the G8783:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Jaw-Chuck-For-Round-Pieces-3-4-x-16-TPI/G8783

and I like it pretty well. It's better than the ones you had marked because the part that grips the wood it wider and bites into the tenon that you've cut into your wood.

Of course, I'm using this for turning bowls.

If you're looking for something to grip small pieces - like pen mandrels - I'd go with something like the H8031 or just a jacobs chuck (H6203) on an appropriately sized arbor for your lathe.

 

[leehljp]

I have the one Dario mentioned ( http://www.grizzlyimports.com/products/4-Jaw-Wood-Chuck-1-x-8-TPI/H6265 ) and it does OK for me. It does put me in the market in the future for a better one. With the pin jaws for holding pen blanks, it is hard to get precisely centered on perfectly squared blanks or on round blanks. When doing segmented or stripes, precision centering is a necessity.

It does well for most of the work and for drilling except for segments and stripes. I might be asking too much and I am not looking for metal lathe precision, but I do expect and need to get within .01 in centering. I can't do it with the Grizzly listed above.

I will say that it provided me with a good learning experience for a couple of years.

 

[Dario]

From what I heard, the Grizzly chuck I posted is a Vicmarc clone and supposedly is a good quality clone. Whether that is accurate or not, I cannot confirm.

For what it is worth, I own and love a Oneway Talon but it probably cannot give the accuracy Hank is looking for either.

 

[Randy_]

I don't think any of us can give you a useful recommendation until we know more about what type of work you want to do. If you are turning hair sticks or batons, some of the mentioned chucks might work OK while you would probably want a different chuck if you are planning to do bowls or boxes. Fifty dollars is only going to get you a bottom of the line chuck and it may not provide the performance you desire. You might be better off waiting a little while and saving up some more money to buy a better chuck.

 

[maxwell_smart007]

If you don't want to spend over 50 dollars, you're going to end up getting a cheap one...and hate it.

THen, you're going to spend the full amount for a good one...

I say, wait until you can afford it, and get a decent one...the Supernova2 is my choice...it was out of my budget, but I'm really happy with it!

 

[Daniel]

I also have the Supernova 2, I had to wait til I could afford to pamper myself to get it. But have never been sorry.
I think there are lower priced chucks out there that are just as good. Two things I looked for when I picked the Nova.
A good selection of accessories so the chuck can grow along with my turning interests. the ability to tighten the jaws with one hand. The Nova made strength and quality a non issue.

 

[Dario]

Just a note. The new Nova/Teknatool chucks are now made in China and I've read lots of complains lately. They are still good chucks but the quality seem to have gone south a bit. Also check Oneway, Axminster and Vicmarc.

Chucks...like lathes, are the ones you don't want to skimp on. You can buy cheap and be sorry you did. Most of the time buying cheap is the most expensive route because of eventual upgrade.

 

[maxwell_smart007]

Are you sure about that, Dario? My Supernova2 said made in New Zealand...and still says so on Amazon...

 

[Dario]

Well I cannot be 100% sure...but I heard it from a lot of various forums and some claim they confirmed it with Teknatool. Charles/Tangboy5000 also confirmed it more than a year ago (if I am not mistaken).

Here is a recent thread from WoodNet that I read...
http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=3374179&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1

That said, there may be some made in New Zealand floating around still.

 

[maxwell_smart007]

I bought mine over a year ago, so maybe that's why...I just LOVE mine...

BUT, having said that, I entered an online contest to win a NOVA lathe by giving some feedback, and the response was from someone with a definitely Oriental name...

SO, I wouldn't be surprised if it were the case!

Andrew

 

[loglugger]

Check www.pennstateind.com the utility grip is a good chuck that comes with 2 sets of jaws. The barracuda2 is more money with 4 sets of jaws.
Bob

 

[CrazyBear]

For those discussing the Supernova 2. Robert Sorby has brought out the Patriot chuck over here. Round about the same bucks as the Supernova and takes all the nova jaws

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

What's so bad about those grizzly chucks?

 

[Dario]

Originally posted by 1JaredSchmidt
<br />What's so bad about those grizzly chucks?

If you are referring to your original list;
a) They are known as knuckle busters (imagine the jaws spinning and you brush on it).
b) They don't hold wood as well (look at the contact surface area)
c) They are not self centering (you have to adjust each jaw one at a time).

 

[loglugger]

H8042 is a self centering but it is still a knuckle getter. At one time I had one similar to that one and it kept taking the hide off my knuckles.
Bob

 

[Randy_]

Originally posted by Dario
<br />.....They are not self centering (you have to adjust each jaw one at a time).

Dario: If I recall correctly two of the three chucks were self-centering. And maybe a self-centering chuck is "NOT" what Jared needs? Maybe he wants to experiment with off-center turning?? If so a self-centering chuck may not be what he needs. As I mentioned earlier, we need to know what kind of projects Jared wants to turn before we can really offer a helpful recommendation.

 

[Dario]

My mistake guys, I thought they all have independent jaws.

Randy, If he wants to turn off-center pieces, I would assume he is advanced enough to know whether these are the chucks for him or not. Just my thought.

 

[Paul in OKC]

Two of the three are independant jaws, the 3rd one is a self centering, but the 'old' 2 rod style instead of one key. I made an adapter for an old metal lathe 4 jaw chuck I have to use on my Jet mini, it worked for what I used it for, but it is heavy, too heavy, and about three time the thickness of these. Only problem I had was using it one time I grabbed the hand wheel to slow the spindle down and the chuck spun loose and the jaw smacked my tool rest and snapped it off! Haven't used the chuck since. Going to save for the right tool for the job instead of making due. Same since in not buying the right thing in the first place, I'd look higher and save.

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

I think I'll get that utility chuck from PSI. Thanks!

 

[leehljp]

Originally posted by Dario
<br />, If he wants to turn off-center pieces, I would assume he is advanced enough to know whether these are the chucks for him or not.

Of course! There are certain questions, that by the fact that they are asked, that give lots of information on the background of the asker, unless they are baiting someone.

One question on a WWing forum recently was "This is my first try at rail and styles - Can I make them in one pass on my router table?" While a few people said yes, the fact that it was asked (and the fact that it was the first try) gives full indication that the fellow didn't have enough experience to try it, and several of us said so.

The type of questions usually does indicate people's background experience. And in some cases or subjects, the fact that they "ask", indicates exactly as you said.

 

[leehljp]

Originally posted by 1JaredSchmidt
<br />What's so bad about those grizzly chucks?

As mentioned above, two are not self centering. If you have plenty of time and want to experiment with the tool setup, you can do it. I have one non self-centering chuck and it was a great learning experience adjusting it. My Grizzly self centering doesn't get quite to the center as accurately as I can get with the non self centering one. BUT I have to spend time adjusting and checking. This is time that most people would rather spend in turning.

Also, the differences in less expensive chucks and more expensive chucks are the consistency in true centering versus amounts of run-out (off center).

I do find some people who are totally satisfied with the Grizzly that I have (H6265). It does do a good job, and if the item is not removed from the chuck until it is finished, then there is no problem. If an item is removed and replaced two or three times, exact centering becomes an issue. This is more of a problem with less expensive chucks. More expensive chucks $175 - 250 do a better job at repeatability in centering.

 

[Randy_]

Originally posted by Dario
<br />.....Randy, If he wants to turn off-center pieces, I would assume he is advanced enough to know whether these are the chucks for him or not.....

I don't want to beat this subject into the ground; but using the above thinking one one could easily get to wondering if the questioner was advanced enough to even know if he needed a chuck. It might be that he would really be better off with a Jacobs chuck, a collet chuck or even a MT collet. Making assumptions is just fine; but I still contend that we can't give the best advice without knowing what sort of projects Jared in interested in pursuing.

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

I want to turn bowls.

 

[loglugger]

I have this chuck and it has been good. I have done a few bowls and a lot of round boxes. If I had the money I would get the Barracuda2 but that is for a later time. Good luck
Bob

Originally posted by 1JaredSchmidt
<br />I think I'll get that utility chuck from PSI. Thanks!

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

Same with me. If I had enough money that's what I would get. Happy Turning![8D]

 

[jskeen]

Jared;
You didn't say in your earlier post where you were planning to buy the psi utility chuck from, but amazon sells the psi chucks at a substantial discount, and with free shipping. You would pay $79.95 plus $8.00 shipping at psi for the utility chuck with 2 sets of jaws, screw chuck adapter, and mounting adapters for 1" x 8tpi and 3/4" x 16tpi. At amazon.com you can get this:

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-CMG3C-Mini-Lathe-Chuck/dp/B0006OC3B4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1198900207&sr=1-8

I THINK this is the same one I ordered from them a month ago, but amazon has reworked all their psi listings recently to correct some glaring errors. This chuck is the chrome body which will not rust, has 3 sets of jaws, and "if" it is the same one I have will screw onto a 1" x 8tpi lathe without an adapter, which eliminates a fairly significant, IMHO, nuisance. with no shipping and a very simple return policy if you don't like it.

I don't know if PSI fixed the issue with the tommy bars bending that is referenced in the feedback for this item, or what, but I have had NO problems with them on mine. This is probably the best entry level chuck you will find, and will do most things a mini lathe owner would want to do.

A scroll chuck, I.E. one that uses the two tightening, or "tommy" bars is usually considered more complicated to use than a "key" chuck that uses a single tool to open and close the jaws, but I have not had any problems holding my workpiece in one hand and closing the jaws with the other. My opinion is that the tommy bars give you a better feel than the key for when the piece is tight.

 

[Randy_]

Originally posted by jskeen
<br />.....A scroll chuck, I.E. one that uses the two tightening, or "tommy" bars is usually considered more complicated to use than a "key" chuck that uses a single tool to open and close the jaws, but I have not had any problems holding my workpiece in one hand and closing the jaws with the other. My opinion is that the tommy bars give you a better feel than the key for when the piece is tight.

I believe any chuck that has jaws that move at the same time is correctly called a scroll chuck whether it is tightened with tommy bars or a key.

Some folks find the tommy bars to be an inconvenience and that might be true if you were on a lathe for 8 hours a day and changing projects very frequently. I have a OneWay chuck that requires tommy bars and became very proficient in their use in short order. For my personal style, the extra cost of a keyed chuck is not justified by the marginal increase in convenience for the hobbyist.

 

[loglugger]

Jsken, the one you pointed out is the Mini Grip #CMGS it is a smaller chuck than the Utility Grip # CUG3418. Haven"t heard much about the Mini. If you can find the 4318 on Amazon you can usually save shipping.
Bob

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

I hear ya![}]

 

[1JaredSchmidt]

woodturningz got a big sale